Asoj 2083 BSअसोज २०८३· Nepal runs on its own calendar

Rhododendron red and Ilam tea · Koshi Province

Eastern Nepal

पूर्वी नेपाल Limbuwan and Khambuwan (Kirat)

Eastern Nepal is the Koshi hills: Ilam's tea gardens, the Kanchenjunga and Makalu base camp treks, the pilgrim summit of Pathibhara and the ridge towns of Dhankuta and Hile. It is the homeland of the Kirat Rai and Limbu, far quieter than Everest or Annapurna, and best from October to May.

Heights518 – 5,143 m
BestMar – Apr · Oct – Nov
TaglineTea hills, Kirat villages, Kanchenjunga's quiet side
Eastern Nepal
Photo: Saroj Pandey · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Most visitors to Nepal go west from Kathmandu, toward Pokhara and the Annapurnas, or north-east to Everest. Eastern Nepal gets a small share of them, which is part of its appeal. Between the Arun river and the Indian border lie green hills of tea and cardamom, ridge-top bazaars, deep river valleys and, to the north, Kanchenjunga and Makalu, the third and fifth highest mountains on earth.

This is Kirat country. The Rai and the Limbu (Yakthung) are among Nepal's oldest peoples, with their own languages, the Limbu script, and the Mundhum, an oral scripture recited by their priests. Their festivals, Sakela and Chasok Tangnam, follow the farming year, and their food, from kinema to tongba, is found nowhere else in Nepal in the same way.

Travel here comes in two kinds. In the hills, short and gentle trips: Ilam and Kanyam for tea, Sandakpur for the view of four of the five highest peaks, Dhankuta and Hile for ridge-town life. In the high north, long and serious treks: Kanchenjunga's north base camp at Pang Pema, and Makalu Base Camp through the forests of the Barun.

Distances are long and roads are slow, so plan for fewer places and more days. A week covers Ilam's tea country and Sandakpur. Ten days lets you add Dhankuta, Hile and Chainpur. The big treks need two to three weeks each. Flights to Bhadrapur, Biratnagar and Tumlingtar save days of driving.

Why go

What Eastern Nepal does best

Ilam and Kanyam tea country

Walk the rows of Nepal's oldest tea gardens at dawn, taste first and autumn flush in Ilam bazaar, and see Kanyam's open slopes before the weekend crowds. Two or three gentle days at 1,300–1,600 m.

Sandakpur's four-peak sunrise

From 3,636 m on the Nepal–India border, see Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Kanchenjunga in one sunrise. From the Ilam side it is a long jeep day or a 3–5 day walk through rhododendron forest.

Pang Pema, Kanchenjunga north

One of Nepal's great remote treks, through Limbu villages and the Tibetan Buddhist village of Ghunsa to Pang Pema at about 5,143 m, under the north face of the world's third highest mountain.

Makalu Base Camp and the Barun

From the warm Arun valley near Tumlingtar over the Shipton La to the Barun valley and Makalu's south face at about 4,870 m, through some of the richest forests in the Himalaya.

Pathibhara Devi pilgrimage

Climb with pilgrims before dawn to the goddess shrine at 3,794 m above Taplejung, known to the Limbu as Mukkumlung, with views to Kanchenjunga on clear mornings.

Ridge towns of the Koshi hills

Dhankuta's calm bazaar and winter oranges, Hile's tongba kitchens and misty ridge, Bhedetar's view over the plains and Chainpur's brass workshops: slow travel on the road north from Dharan.

१The story of Eastern Nepal

The Kirat hills between the Arun and the Mechi

Long before the kingdom of Nepal existed, these hills were Kirat land. Rai communities lived mainly in the middle hills, the region often called Khambuwan or Majh Kirat, and the Limbu in the far east, Limbuwan or Pallo Kirat, east of the Arun. Limbuwan was traditionally divided among ten chiefdoms. Each people kept its own languages, clans, priests and oral traditions, gathered in the Mundhum.

In the late 18th century the Gorkhali state of Prithvi Narayan Shah expanded east and brought the Kirat hills into the new kingdom. Limbu chiefs kept a degree of local authority for many decades under the kipat system of communal land, though later reforms eroded it. In the 18th century the Limbu scholar Te-ongsi Sirijunga revived and taught the Limbu script, which is still named after him.

The modern east grew with tea, roads and soldiers. Tea was planted in Ilam in the 1860s. Men from these hills joined the Gurkha regiments of the British and Indian armies, and their pensions built houses across Dhankuta and Dharan. Roads arrived late: the Dharan–Dhankuta highway was completed in 1982, and many valleys toward Kanchenjunga and Makalu have been reached by jeep only in the last two decades.

Conservation came too. Makalu Barun National Park was created in 1992, and the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area in 1997. In 2006 the management of Kanchenjunga was handed to a council of local people, one of the first such handovers in Nepal. Since 2015 the region has formed part of Koshi Province, with its capital at Biratnagar.

२The legend
As it is told · पूर्वी नेपाल

The Limbu Mundhum tells how Tagera Ningwaphumang, the supreme creator, made the world, and how Yuma Sammang, the ancestral grandmother goddess, became the guardian of the Limbu home and its people. She is honoured at every Chasok Tangnam with the first grain of the harvest. Rai traditions in the Mundhum tell their own creation stories and of ancestors who moved up and down the hills with the seasons, a journey remembered in the Sakela dance.

३The people

Who lives here

Eastern Nepal is home to Rai and Limbu (Yakthung) communities, with Brahmin, Chhetri, Newar, Tamang, Magar, Gurung, Sherpa, Sunuwar, Yakkha and Lepcha families among many others, and Buddhists of Tibetan descent in high villages such as Ghunsa. Rai alone speak many languages, including Bantawa, Kulung and Athpare. People farm rice, millet, maize, cardamom, tea and oranges, and many families depend on work abroad.

Local name: Limbuwan and Khambuwan (Kirat)

४Words you will hear
Limbu
सेवारो
sewaro

Greeting used by Limbu and other Kirat people

Limbu
मुन्धुम
Mundhum

Oral scripture and tradition of the Kirat peoples

Limbu
युमा
Yuma

Yuma Sammang, the ancestral grandmother goddess of the Limbu

Nepali
गुराँस
gurans

Rhododendron, which reddens the eastern ridges in April

Nepali
टार
tar

Flat raised terrace above a river, as in Tumlingtar and Bhedetar

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Kinema

Soybeans boiled, wrapped in leaves and left to ferment for a few days, then cooked as a curry or pickle with tomato and chilli. Strong-smelling, savoury and very Limbu. Ask for it in local kitchens in Taplejung, Ilam, Dhankuta and Dharan, and at village homestays.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Mundhum, the oral scripture of the Limbu, is said to mean the power of great strength in the Limbu language, and is organised into two parts, Thungsap and Peysap.

Wikipedia: Mundhum

Kinema, a fermented soybean food also called hongema or hokima, is a traditional food of the Limbu people and is now also made by other Kirat communities of eastern Nepal, Sikkim and Darjeeling.

Wikipedia: Kinema

Te-ongsi Sirijunga, an 18th-century Limbu scholar of Limbuwan and Sikkim, revived and taught the Limbu script, which is widely known as the Sirijanga script after him.

Wikipedia: Te-ongsi Sirijunga Xin Thebe

Kanchenjunga's name was explained in the 19th century by the Schlagintweit brothers as meaning the five treasures of the high snow, from Tibetan words.

Wikipedia: Kangchenjunga

Bhadrapur's airport in Jhapa, the main air gateway to Ilam's tea country, has served as an airfield since November 1963.

Wikipedia: Bhadrapur Airport

Untold Nepal, region by region

Places

Where to go in Eastern Nepal

Ilam Eastern Nepal1,300 m
tea countryPahadइलाम

Ilam

Nepal's oldest tea hills, rolled green to the Indian border

Mar – May · Oct – Nov
Kanyam Eastern Nepal1,570 m
tea countryPahadकन्याम

Kanyam

Open tea slopes on the Mechi Highway, and sunrise at Antu Danda

Mar – May · Oct – Nov
Bhedetar Eastern Nepal1,420 m
viewpointPahadभेडेटार

Bhedetar

The first ridge above the plains, with the Terai spread below

Oct – Feb
Dhankuta Eastern Nepal1,192 m
hill townPahadधनकुटा

Dhankuta

A tidy ridge town of oranges, tea and Athpahariya Rai villages

Mar – Apr · Oct – Jan
Hile Eastern Nepal1,948 m
hill townPahadहिले

Hile

A misty ridge bazaar of tongba, tea and the road north

Mar – May · Oct – Dec
Tumlingtar Eastern Nepal518 m
valleyChure and Inner Teraiतुम्लिङटार

Tumlingtar

A broad river terrace above the Arun, gateway to Makalu

Oct – Mar
Chainpur Eastern Nepal1,277 m
old townPahadचैनपुर

Chainpur

An old hill bazaar of brass jugs, bronze casters and khukuri smiths

Mar – Apr · Oct – Dec
Ghunsa Eastern Nepal3,475 m
trek stopLekhघुन्सा

Ghunsa

The last real village below Kanchenjunga's north face

Apr – May · Oct – Nov
Pang Pema Eastern Nepal5,143 m
base campHimalपाङपेमा

Pang Pema

Kanchenjunga's north base camp, under a 3,000 m wall of ice

Apr – May · Oct – Nov
Makalu Base Camp Eastern Nepal4,870 m
base campHimalमकालु आधार शिविर

Makalu Base Camp

From rice terraces near 500 m to Makalu's south face at 4,870 m

Apr – May · Oct – Nov
Pathibhara Eastern Nepal3,794 m
pilgrimage siteLekhपाथीभरा

Pathibhara

The goddess on the hilltop above Taplejung, at 3,794 m

Mar – May · Oct – Nov
Sandakpur Eastern Nepal3,636 m
viewpointLekhसन्दकपुर

Sandakpur

Four of the world's five highest peaks from one ridge top

Apr · Oct – Dec
Map of Bhedetar, Chainpur, Dhankuta, Ghunsa, Hile, Ilam, Kanyam, Makalu Base Camp, Pang Pema, Pathibhara, Sandakpur, TumlingtarIndiaChinaBhutanBangladeshNepalGandakiKoshiBhedetar1Chainpur2Dhankuta3Ghunsa4Hile5Ilam6Kanyam7Makalu Base Camp8Pang Pema9Pathibhara10Sandakpur11Tumlingtar12250 kmN
  1. 1Bhedetar
  2. 2Chainpur
  3. 3Dhankuta
  4. 4Ghunsa
  5. 5Hile
  6. 6Ilam
  7. 7Kanyam
  8. 8Makalu Base Camp
  9. 9Pang Pema
  10. 10Pathibhara
  11. 11Sandakpur
  12. 12Tumlingtar
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Trips

Trips in Eastern Nepal

Starting points we change for every traveller. The line on each card is the sleeping height of every night.

Filter every trip
Eastern Nepalmax 1,850 m
7 nightsEasyculture

Arun Valley and Chainpur Crafts

Seven nights from the Arun valley to the plains. Fly to Tumlingtar on its broad river terrace, spend two days with the …

fromUSD 1,300See the days
Eastern Nepalmax 2,100 m
9 nightsEasyoverland

Eastern Hills Overland: Ilam to the Arun

Nine nights across the eastern hills by private car, from the tea gardens of Kanyam and Ilam to the Arun valley at …

fromUSD 1,600See the days
Eastern Nepalmax 3,636 m
5 nightsModeratetour

Ilam, Sandakpur and Kanyam

Five nights that climb from the tea gardens of Ilam to the Singalila ridge at Sandakpur, 3,636 m, where four of the …

fromUSD 1,050See the days
Eastern Nepalmax 2,100 m
4 nightsEasytour

Ilam Tea Country

Four slow nights in the tea hills of Ilam, Nepal's oldest tea district. A night at Kanyam among clipped green slopes, then …

fromUSD 850See the days
Eastern Nepalmax 5,140 m
24 nightsStrenuoustrek

Kanchenjunga Circuit: North and South Base Camps

Twenty-four nights around the Nepal side of Kanchenjunga: up the Tamor and Ghunsa valleys to Pang Pema at 5,140 m, back to …

fromUSD 3,350See the days
Eastern Nepalmax 5,140 m
20 nightsStrenuoustrek

Kanchenjunga North Base Camp Trek

Twenty nights from Kathmandu to Pang Pema, the north base camp of Kanchenjunga at 5,140 m. A jeep up the Tamor valley, …

fromUSD 2,850See the days
Eastern Nepalmax 1,850 m
4 nightsEasyculture

Kirat Culture Trail: Bhedetar, Dhankuta, Hile

Four nights in the Kirat heartland of the eastern hills, where Rai and Limbu culture is part of daily life. Visit Budha …

fromUSD 750See the days
Eastern Nepalmax 2,100 m
6 nightsEasywildlife

Koshi Tappu Birds and Ilam Tea

Six nights from the wetlands of Koshi Tappu, home to Nepal's last wild water buffalo and a great gathering of winter water …

fromUSD 1,250See the days
Eastern Nepalmax 4,870 m
18 nightsStrenuoustrek

Makalu Base Camp Trek

Eighteen nights from Kathmandu to the foot of Makalu, the fifth-highest mountain on earth. Fly to Tumlingtar in the Arun valley, walk …

fromUSD 2,450See the days
Eastern Nepalmax 3,794 m
5 nightsModeratepilgrimage

Pathibhara Devi Pilgrimage

Five nights to Pathibhara Devi, the hilltop shrine above Taplejung at 3,794 m that Limbu people call Mukkumlung. Drive the Mechi Highway …

fromUSD 950See the days

Experiences

Things to do, coded by prayer-flag colour

Guides

Read before you go

seasons
Eastern Nepal5 min read

Best Time to Visit Eastern Nepal, Month by Month

October and November are the best months in eastern Nepal: clear skies for Kanchenjunga, Makalu and Sandakpur, the autumn tea …

food
Eastern Nepal5 min read

Eastern Nepal Food: Tongba, Kinema and Yangben

Eastern Nepal eats differently from Kathmandu. Ferments are the heart of the kitchen: kinema from soybeans, gundruk and sinki from …

stories
Eastern Nepal5 min read

The Four 8,000ers You Can See From Eastern Nepal

Four of the five highest mountains on earth stand along the eastern Himalaya of Nepal: Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu. …

practical
Eastern Nepal5 min read

Getting to Eastern Nepal: Flights, Roads, Borders

Fly from Kathmandu to Bhadrapur for Ilam, Sandakpur and Kanchenjunga, to Biratnagar for Dharan, Dhankuta, Hile and Koshi Tappu, and …

planning
Eastern Nepal5 min read

Ilam Tea Country: Gardens, Flushes and Where to Go

Ilam is Nepal's oldest tea district, with its first estate planted in 1863. Fly to Bhadrapur and drive 3–4 hours …

permits
Eastern Nepal5 min read

Kanchenjunga Trek: Routes, Permits and Stages

The Kanchenjunga trek needs a restricted area permit, a Kanchenjunga Conservation Area permit, a registered agency, at least two trekkers …

culture
Eastern Nepal5 min read

Kirat Culture: The Rai and Limbu of the East

Kirat is the shared name for the Rai, Limbu, Yakkha and Sunuwar peoples of eastern Nepal. Their faith rests on …

trekking
Eastern Nepal5 min read

Makalu Base Camp and the Barun Valley

The Makalu Base Camp trek starts at Tumlingtar in the Arun valley and climbs over Shipton La into the Barun …

Getting there

How to reach Eastern Nepal

Eastern Nepal has three useful airports. Bhadrapur in Jhapa, about 45–50 minutes by air from Kathmandu, is the gateway to Ilam, Kanyam, Sandakpur and, by a long drive north, Taplejung and Pathibhara. Biratnagar, about 40 minutes from Kathmandu with frequent flights, serves Dharan, Bhedetar, Dhankuta and Hile. Tumlingtar, about 45 minutes from Kathmandu, is the gateway to Chainpur and the Makalu trek, though its flights are more often hit by weather. By road, the East–West Highway runs along the Terai, with the Mechi Highway climbing north to Ilam and Taplejung and the Koshi Highway climbing from Dharan to Dhankuta, Hile and Khandbari. Overnight buses from Kathmandu take 10–16 hours to the eastern towns. Hill roads are slow and can be blocked by monsoon landslides. Check current status before you travel.

Permits

Most of eastern Nepal needs no trekking permit: Ilam, Kanyam, Sandakpur's Nepal side, Pathibhara, Dhankuta, Hile, Bhedetar, Tumlingtar and Chainpur are open. The Kanchenjunga region requires a Kanchenjunga Conservation Area permit and a restricted area permit, issued through a registered agency, normally for at least two trekkers with a licensed guide. The Makalu trek requires a Makalu Barun National Park permit. Since April 2023 Nepal requires foreign trekkers in national parks and conservation areas to trek with a licensed guide. Fees and rules change; check current status before you travel.

Routes

Questions

Eastern Nepal: what travellers ask

Is eastern Nepal worth visiting?

Yes, especially if you have already seen Kathmandu and the Annapurnas or Everest, or want quiet. Eastern Nepal has Ilam's tea gardens, the Sandakpur view of four eight-thousanders, the remote Kanchenjunga and Makalu treks, and Kirat Rai and Limbu culture, with far fewer tourists than the west.

What is the best time to visit eastern Nepal?

October and November are best for clear views and the high treks. March to May brings rhododendrons, tea plucking and good trekking with more haze. December to February is cold but clear in the hills. June to September is a heavy monsoon here, with landslides and leeches.

How do I get to eastern Nepal from Kathmandu?

Fly to Bhadrapur for Ilam and Kanyam, Biratnagar for Dharan, Dhankuta and Hile, or Tumlingtar for Chainpur and Makalu. Flights take 40–50 minutes. By road, overnight buses reach the eastern towns in 10–16 hours. Check current status before you travel.

How many days do I need for eastern Nepal?

A week covers Ilam, Kanyam and Sandakpur. Ten days adds Dhankuta, Hile and Bhedetar or Chainpur. The Kanchenjunga North trek to Pang Pema needs about 18–22 days, and Makalu Base Camp about 16–20 days from Kathmandu.

Do I need permits for eastern Nepal?

Not for most of the region. The Kanchenjunga trek needs a conservation area permit and a restricted area permit, and the Makalu trek a national park permit. Since April 2023 foreign trekkers must use a licensed guide in national parks and conservation areas. Check current status before you travel.

Who are the Kirat people?

The Kirat are indigenous peoples of eastern Nepal, chiefly the Rai and Limbu, along with groups such as the Yakkha and Sunuwar. They have their own languages, priests and the Mundhum, an oral scripture. Their festivals include Sakela and Chasok Tangnam, both linked to the farming year.

Is the Kanchenjunga trek harder than Everest Base Camp?

Generally yes. It is longer, more remote, with simpler lodges and fewer rescue options, and requires a restricted area permit with a licensed guide. Maximum altitudes are similar. It suits trekkers who have already done a high-altitude trek.

Can I see Everest from eastern Nepal?

Yes, from Sandakpur on the Singalila ridge in Ilam district, where on clear mornings Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Kanchenjunga are all visible. Everest is far away, more than 100 km, so it looks smaller than Kanchenjunga, which fills the northern horizon.

Is eastern Nepal safe for travellers?

Eastern Nepal is generally safe and friendly for travellers, including solo women. The main risks are road travel on steep hill roads, monsoon landslides, and altitude on the high treks. Travel with a licensed guide in remote areas and carry insurance that covers helicopter evacuation.

Plan with a local planner

Tell us your height, we will find the trail

Easy hills or a 5,000 m pass, a week or a month: three short questions and a planner sends a first plan, with the sleeping height of every night and an itemised price.

  1. १Tell us where, when and how high you want to go
  2. २Get a first plan and an itemised price within one working day
  3. ३Change anything until it fits. Pay a deposit only when you book
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