Asoj 2083 BSअसोज २०८३· Nepal runs on its own calendar

Eastern Nepal · old town

Chainpur

चैनपुर

Chainpur is an old trading bazaar on a ridge in Sankhuwasabha district, at about 1,277 m, above the Arun valley. For centuries it has been known for the karuwa, a spouted water jug of cast and carved brass, and for its metalworkers and khukuri smiths. It is a short drive from Tumlingtar and Khandbari.

  • Stay 0–1 nights
  • Best Mar – Apr · Oct – Dec
  • पहाडPahad
Chainpur
Photo: Awasman · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Chainpur

Altitude1,277 m14.4% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath86%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils95.7 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu+0.8 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 1,277 m; real days vary with weather.

Long before roads reached the Koshi hills, Chainpur was one of the market towns where hill villages traded with merchants from the south. Its bazaar grew along a ridge, with Newar shopkeepers and metalworkers among the families who settled here, and it served as the headquarters of Sankhuwasabha district until the offices moved to Khandbari. Porters walked for days to reach it, carrying hill produce in and metal goods, cloth and salt out.

Today Chainpur is quieter than its neighbour, which is part of its charm. The old bazaar still has shop-houses with wooden windows and family workshops where brass and bronze are cast, filed and engraved. The best-known product is the karuwa, a heavy water jug with a carved spout, still given as a wedding gift across eastern Nepal. You hear the workshops before you see them: the tap of hammers and the rasp of files.

Come for half a day from Tumlingtar, or stay a night to see the workshops at their busiest in the morning and walk the bazaar after the shops shut. Chainpur is also a good rest stop at the start or end of the Makalu trek, with cooler air than the Arun valley below, quiet lanes, and enough to see to fill a slow day without any long drives or early starts.

Why go

A karuwa workshop

Watch a metalworking family cast, file, polish and engrave brass jugs and bowls by hand. The work is noisy, hot and slow, and a single karuwa takes days. Buy directly from the maker if you want one.

The old bazaar

Walk the bazaar along the ridge, with shop-houses, carved wooden windows, small temples and tea shops. It is quiet and easy to explore on foot in an hour or two, best in the late afternoon light.

Khukuri smiths

Blacksmiths around Chainpur forge khukuri, the curved Nepali knife, from steel heated in charcoal fires. A visit shows how blades are shaped and hardened, though carrying one home needs care with airline rules.

Views over the Arun valley

From the ridge, the land falls away toward the Arun, with the Tumlingtar terrace below and forested hills beyond. On clear winter mornings snow peaks show on the northern horizon above the ridges.

Yomari at Mangsir full moon

Newar families in Chainpur make yomari dumplings for Yomari Punhi, the full moon of Mangsir in November or December. If you visit then, you may be offered one fresh from the steamer.

१The story of Chainpur

The bazaar that made the karuwa

Chainpur's place on the ridge between the Arun valley and the higher hills made it a natural trading post. Grain, ghee, cardamom and herbs came down from the villages; cloth, salt, metal and tools came up from the south. Merchants and craft families settled along the ridge, and the bazaar became one of the best known in the eastern hills. Its shop-houses, with goods on the ground floor and family rooms above, still follow the pattern of those trading days.

Metalwork became its trade. Workshops here have cast and carved brass and bronze for generations, making plates, bowls, lamps and especially the karuwa, the spouted water jug that a bride's family gives in eastern Nepal and that sits on the shelf of many hill homes. A Chainpur karuwa is recognised by its weight and the carving on its body and spout. Blacksmiths in the area are also known for their khukuri knives.

Chainpur was the district headquarters of Sankhuwasabha until the offices moved to Khandbari, and in 2014 it became the centre of a new municipality formed from five former village areas. The workshops face competition from cheap factory-made goods, aluminium and steel, and fewer young people take up the trade, many leaving instead for jobs abroad. But several families still work in the old way, and a Chainpur karuwa remains a gift that carries weight, in both senses.

३The people

Who lives here

Chainpur's bazaar has long been home to Newar trading and metalworking families, alongside Brahmin, Chhetri and Dalit artisan families such as the blacksmiths who make khukuri. The surrounding villages are home to Rai, Limbu, Tamang, Sherpa, Gurung and others. Nepali is the common language, with Tamang, Sherpa, Limbu and Rai languages spoken in many homes. Trade, crafts, farming and remittances keep the town going.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
करुवा
karuwa

Spouted brass water jug, Chainpur's famous product

Nepali
खुकुरी
khukuri

Curved Nepali knife used on farms and by Gurkha soldiers

Nepali
कामी
kami

Blacksmith; also a caste name for metalworking families

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Yomari

A steamed rice-flour dumpling shaped like a fig, filled with molasses and sesame or sweetened milk solids. Newar families make it for Yomari Punhi, the full moon of Mangsir in November or December. Outside the festival, ask a Newar household in the bazaar; we can arrange it with notice.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Chainpur has been known for hundreds of years for the karuwa, a water jug with a pipe-like spout and carved exterior, still a classic gift in eastern Nepal.

Wikipedia: Chainpur Municipality

Chainpur used to be the headquarters of Sankhuwasabha district before the offices moved to Khandbari, which is why the old town has an older, more established bazaar than many hill towns of its size.

Wikipedia: Chainpur Municipality

Chainpur municipality was formed in May 2014 by merging five former village areas: Chainpur, Siddhakali, Siddhapokhari, Baneshwar and Kharang, with the old bazaar as its centre.

Wikipedia: Chainpur Municipality

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Chainpur

Road

Chainpur is a drive of roughly 1.5–2.5 hours from Tumlingtar, depending on the road, and closer to Khandbari. Jeeps run between the towns. Roads are rough in places and slow in the monsoon; check current status before you travel.

Air

The nearest airport is Tumlingtar, about 45 minutes by air from Kathmandu. Flights can be delayed by weather, so keep a spare half day.

Where to stay

Chainpur has a few simple lodges and guesthouses in the bazaar, with basic rooms, shared or simple private bathrooms and home-style meals. For more choice, stay in Khandbari or Tumlingtar and visit Chainpur on a day trip. If you want to see workshops early in the morning, a night in Chainpur is worth it, and the bazaar is pleasant in the evening; we confirm open lodges before booking.

Local tips

  • Visit workshops in the morning, when the metalworkers are most active and the light is good.
  • Ask before photographing artisans at work, and consider buying something small from the families you visit.
  • A real Chainpur karuwa is heavy; check your baggage allowance, especially on small domestic flights with 10–15 kg limits.
  • Khukuri knives must go in checked baggage, never hand luggage, and some countries restrict importing them.
  • Saturday is the weekly day off in Nepal, and some workshops close; plan visits for other days.

On the map

Chainpur and what is near it

Map of Chainpur, Tumlingtar, Makalu Base Camp, HileIndiaChinaNepalKoshiChainpur1ChainpurTumlingtar2TumlingtarMakalu Base Camp3Makalu Base CampHile4Hile50 kmN
  1. 1Chainpur
  2. 2Tumlingtar
  3. 3Makalu Base Camp
  4. 4Hile
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Chainpur: what travellers ask

Where is Chainpur?

Chainpur is a hill bazaar and municipality in Sankhuwasabha district, Koshi Province, eastern Nepal, at about 1,277 m. It is near Khandbari, the district headquarters, and a drive of roughly 1.5–2.5 hours from Tumlingtar airport, above the Arun valley.

What is Chainpur famous for?

Chainpur is famous for the karuwa, a carved brass water jug with a spout, and for its brass and bronze metalwork more generally. Blacksmiths in the area are also known for khukuri knives. It is an old trading bazaar with Newar shop-houses.

How do I get to Chainpur from Kathmandu?

Fly from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar in about 45 minutes, then drive roughly 1.5–2.5 hours. By road, the route runs via Dharan, Dhankuta, Hile and Khandbari, about two days from Kathmandu. Check current status before you travel.

How much time do I need in Chainpur?

Half a day covers a workshop and a bazaar walk. A night lets you see workshops in the morning when they are busiest and the bazaar in the evening. Many travellers visit Chainpur as a day trip from Tumlingtar or Khandbari.

Can I buy a karuwa in Chainpur?

Yes, directly from the families who make them or from shops in the bazaar. Prices depend on weight and carving. Remember that a good karuwa is heavy, often a few kilograms, and check baggage limits on domestic flights before you buy.

Is Chainpur the same as other Chainpurs in Nepal?

No. Several places in Nepal are called Chainpur, including the headquarters of Bajhang district in the far west. The karuwa town is Chainpur in Sankhuwasabha district, near Khandbari and Tumlingtar, so check the district when booking transport.

When is the best time to visit Chainpur?

October to April is dry and pleasant, with clear views over the Arun valley from October to February. The Mangsir full moon in November or December brings Yomari Punhi. June to September is wet, and roads can be slow.

Are there hotels in Chainpur?

There are a few simple lodges and guesthouses in the bazaar, with basic rooms and home-style meals. For more choice, stay in Khandbari or Tumlingtar and visit on a day trip. We confirm what is open before booking.

Can I combine Chainpur with the Makalu trek?

Yes. Chainpur is close to Tumlingtar and Khandbari, the gateways for the Makalu trek, so it fits well at the start or end, for example as a rest day after coming down from the mountains, or while waiting for a flight.

Plan with a local planner

Tell us your height, we will find the trail

Easy hills or a 5,000 m pass, a week or a month: three short questions and a planner sends a first plan, with the sleeping height of every night and an itemised price.

  1. १Tell us where, when and how high you want to go
  2. २Get a first plan and an itemised price within one working day
  3. ३Change anything until it fits. Pay a deposit only when you book
Plan my Nepal trip