Eastern Nepal · Light, height and the right hour
Photography in Eastern Nepal
Autumn's clear air, spring rhododendrons, festival chariots, the walled city of Lo Manthang and the mountain views at Poon Hill, Kala Patthar and Gokyo Ri, timed for the light.
Trips
Eastern Hills Overland: Ilam to the Arun
Nine nights across the eastern hills by private car, from the tea gardens of Kanyam and Ilam to the Arun valley at …
Ilam, Sandakpur and Kanyam
Five nights that climb from the tea gardens of Ilam to the Singalila ridge at Sandakpur, 3,636 m, where four of the …
Ilam Tea Country
Four slow nights in the tea hills of Ilam, Nepal's oldest tea district. A night at Kanyam among clipped green slopes, then …
Eastern Nepalmax 5,140 mKanchenjunga Circuit: North and South Base Camps
Twenty-four nights around the Nepal side of Kanchenjunga: up the Tamor and Ghunsa valleys to Pang Pema at 5,140 m, back to …
Kanchenjunga North Base Camp Trek
Twenty nights from Kathmandu to Pang Pema, the north base camp of Kanchenjunga at 5,140 m. A jeep up the Tamor valley, …
Kirat Culture Trail: Bhedetar, Dhankuta, Hile
Four nights in the Kirat heartland of the eastern hills, where Rai and Limbu culture is part of daily life. Visit Budha …
Koshi Tappu Birds and Ilam Tea
Six nights from the wetlands of Koshi Tappu, home to Nepal's last wild water buffalo and a great gathering of winter water …
Makalu Base Camp Trek
Eighteen nights from Kathmandu to the foot of Makalu, the fifth-highest mountain on earth. Fly to Tumlingtar in the Arun valley, walk …
Pathibhara Devi Pilgrimage
Five nights to Pathibhara Devi, the hilltop shrine above Taplejung at 3,794 m that Limbu people call Mukkumlung. Drive the Mechi Highway …
Places
Bhedetar
The first ridge above the plains, with the Terai spread below
Hile
A misty ridge bazaar of tongba, tea and the road north
Ilam
Nepal's oldest tea hills, rolled green to the Indian border
Kanyam
Open tea slopes on the Mechi Highway, and sunrise at Antu Danda
Makalu Base Camp
From rice terraces near 500 m to Makalu's south face at 4,870 m
Pang Pema
Kanchenjunga's north base camp, under a 3,000 m wall of ice
Pathibhara
The goddess on the hilltop above Taplejung, at 3,794 m
Eastern Nepal3,636 mSandakpur
Four of the world's five highest peaks from one ridge top
Experiences
Sunset over the Terai from Bhedetar
An evening on the Bhedetar ridge to watch the sun go down over the plains of eastern Nepal, the Sapta …
Sekuwa evening on the ridge
Dinner at a roadside grill on the Bhedetar ridge: skewers of pork, chicken or goat marinated in spices and cooked …
Dantakali and Budhasubba temples below Bhedetar
A morning visit to two temples on the hills at the edge of Dharan, on the way up to Bhedetar: …
Down to the Tamor river at Mulghat
A drive from Bhedetar down the far side of the ridge to Mulghat, where the Koshi Highway crosses the Tamor …
Tongba and momo in a Hile kitchen
An evening in one of Hile's family kitchens, sipping hot tongba through a bamboo straw, eating momo and thukpa, and …
Sunrise walk on the Hile ridge
An early walk from the bazaar up to a viewpoint on the ridge above Hile, to watch the sun rise …
Rhododendron day on the Basantapur ridge
A spring day trip north from Hile to Basantapur and a walk into the rhododendron forests of the Tinjure–Milke–Jaljale ridge, …
The Hile gompa and bazaar walk
A short morning walk through Hile's ridge-top bazaar to the small Buddhist monastery near the road, with a guide who …