Badimalika, Far West & Karnali: story, things to do and when to go

The air at Badimalika

Altitude4,220 m47.7% of the way to 8,849 m

BeltHimalहिमाल · Ice, moraine and the high passes

Each breath59%of the oxygen at sea level

Water boils85.6 °Cso dal takes longer here

vs Kathmandu-18.3 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 4,220 m; real days vary with weather.

Badimalika is the great mountain goddess of Nepal's far west. Her temple sits on a high ridge at about 4,220 m, above rolling grassland and far from any road, and every year thousands of pilgrims walk for days to reach it. For people across Bajura, Achham, Kalikot and the surrounding hills, Badimalika Mai is mother, protector and the giver of rain and harvests.

The temple stands in ward 9 of Triveni municipality in Bajura district, on a mountain the old texts call Mallagiri. Below it lies Triveni Dham, where three streams meet and pilgrims bathe before the final climb. Around the shrine the land opens into wide high pastures with views across the far western ranges.

This is not an easy or comfortable trip. There are almost no lodges, the trails are long and unmarked, and the altitude is real. But for travellers who want to see a living Himalayan pilgrimage, with Deuda singing, fasting, bathing and devotion far above the tree line, Badimalika is extraordinary, especially at the Janai Purnima fair.

Why go

The temple at 4,220 m

The Badimalika temple stands on a high ridge above the meadows, a simple shrine of great importance to the far west. The final climb from Triveni is steep and slow at this altitude, and the view from the top over endless ridges is the reward.

The Janai Purnima fair

On the full moon of Shrawan, usually in August, thousands of pilgrims gather at Badimalika. They fast, bathe, renew sacred threads and sing Deuda through the night, and tarpaulin tea shops appear on the pasture.

Triveni Dham

Triveni, where three streams meet near the borders of Kalikot, Achham and Bajura, is where pilgrims bathe and camp before the climb to the temple. It is a beautiful, open place of water and grass.

High pastures of Bajura

Around Badimalika the land opens into wide summer pastures, green in the monsoon and gold in autumn, grazed by sheep and cattle. Walking across them, far above the villages, gives a strong sense of space.

Nateshwori temple

Tradition says pilgrims should also worship at Nateshwori, the temple of the goddess's elder sister, in Triveni municipality. It is a long day's walk from Badimalika and completes the pilgrimage for many devotees.

१The story of Badimalika

Mallagiri, the mountain of the goddess

In the far west, Badimalika is counted among the shakti pithas, places where parts of the goddess Sati's body fell to earth. Her temple on Mallagiri mountain has been the focus of pilgrimage for centuries, and the hill kingdoms of the region competed to honour her. Local tradition credits King Dipraj Chhatyal of the Chhatyal dynasty, together with the king of Jumla, with building the temple.

That shared history survives in an unusual arrangement: the temple is served by two priests, one representing Kalikot district and the other Bajura. Pilgrims arrive from all directions, from Achham and Doti in the south-west, from Kalikot and Jumla in the east, and the shrine is a meeting point for communities who otherwise rarely see each other.

The biggest gathering comes on Janai Purnima, the full moon of Shrawan, usually in August, when Malika Chaturdashi is celebrated. Temporary tea shops under tarpaulin spring up, pilgrims camp in their thousands, and Deuda songs go on through the night. In recent years a 4G mobile tower has brought phone and internet coverage to the area, which helps with safety during the pilgrimage.

२The legend

As it is told · बडिमालिका

According to Hindu legend, when Sati threw herself into her father Daksha's sacrificial fire and Shiva carried her body across the world, her left shoulder fell on Mallagiri, now Badimalika. Local tradition adds that King Dipraj Chhatyal, out hunting, found his bow held by an unseen force; the goddess then appeared in his dream and told him to build her temple here instead of shedding blood. Later, after he tried to discover who brought him daily feasts, she told him to build a second temple at Nateshwori, where pilgrims still worship after visiting Badimalika.

३The people

Who lives here

The pilgrims and villagers around Badimalika are mostly Khas: Chhetri, Thakuri, Brahmin and Dalit families from Bajura, Achham, Kalikot and Jumla, speaking Bajureli, Achhami and Jumli forms of Nepali. They farm terraced fields below the pastures, graze sheep and cattle on the high meadows in summer, and collect medicinal herbs. Bajura also has small Buddhist communities in its northern valleys.

Local name: Mallagiri (old name of the mountain)

४Words you will hear

Nepali

माई

Mai

Mother; a respectful name for the goddess

Nepali

मेला

Mela

Religious fair, like the Janai Purnima gathering here

Nepali

जनै

Janai

Sacred thread renewed on Janai Purnima

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Dhido with gundruk

A thick, stiff porridge of millet or buckwheat flour, eaten with gundruk, fermented dried greens cooked into a sour soup. It is the food of the hill villages on the way to Badimalika. Your trek cook or a village host on the trail from Martadi will make it.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Badimalika temple is served by two priests, one representing Kalikot district and the other representing Bajura, a reflection of the temple's shared history between the hill kingdoms of the region.

Wikipedia: Badimalika Temple

Badimalika Municipality in Bajura, formed in 2017, takes its name from the temple, even though the temple itself lies in neighbouring Triveni Municipality.

Wikipedia: Badimalika

Nepal Telecom extended 4G mobile service to the Badimalika area, at about 4,200 m, by installing a tower ahead of the Janai Purnima fair, improving communication and emergency coordination for pilgrims.

Wikipedia: Badimalika Temple

Untold Nepal, region by region

Experiences

Four ways to spend a day in Badimalika

Trekking

BadimalikaHalf day

The dawn climb from Triveni to the temple

Leave Triveni Dham before dawn and climb steadily to the Badimalika temple at about 4,220 m, joining pilgrims on the …

Spiritual

Badimalika2–3 days

Janai Purnima fair on the high pastures

Join thousands of pilgrims at Badimalika for the Janai Purnima fair, with fasting, bathing at Triveni, sacred threads, offerings at …

Spiritual

BadimalikaOvernight

Bathing and camping at Triveni Dham

Camp at Triveni Dham, where three streams meet near the borders of Kalikot, Achham and Bajura, and watch pilgrims bathe …

Heritage

BadimalikaFull day walk

Completing the pilgrimage at Nateshwori

Walk from Badimalika to Nateshwori, the temple of the goddess's elder sister in Triveni municipality, which tradition says pilgrims must …

Getting there

How to reach Badimalika

Road

From Dhangadhi, drive about 327 km and 12 hours via Dipayal and Sanfebagar to Martadi, the Bajura district headquarters, usually in a long day or with a night on the way. Roads are rough and often damaged in the monsoon; check current status before you travel.

On foot

From Martadi the trek to Badimalika takes three to four days, via villages and forest to Triveni Dham and then up to the temple. Trails are unmarked and there are few teahouses, so a guide, porters and camping equipment are essential.

Air

Fly Kathmandu to Dhangadhi in about 1 hour 10 minutes. Small airstrips in Bajura have had irregular flights from Nepalgunj or Dhangadhi; check current status before you travel.

Where to stay

There are no permanent lodges at Badimalika. Pilgrims and trekkers camp near Triveni Dham and on the pastures, and during the Janai Purnima fair temporary tea shops and shelters under tarpaulin are set up. On the trail from Martadi, simple village homes and a few teahouses may offer a floor or a room. Martadi has basic hotels for the night before and after. Come on a fully supported camping trek.

Local tips

Spend a night at Triveni or lower before climbing to 4,220 m to reduce the risk of altitude sickness.
Carry a four-season tent and sleeping bag; nights at the temple are cold in every month.
If you visit at the fair, expect crowds, noise and basic sanitation, and book your crew well ahead.
Dress modestly, remove shoes at the shrine and follow the priests' guidance about what may be photographed.
Janai Purnima dates follow the lunar calendar; check current status before you travel.

On the map

Badimalika and what is near it

Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Festivals here

Far West & Karnali

Badimalikaबडिमालिका मेला

Badimalika Janai Purnima Mela

Janai Purnima, full moon of Shrawan, usually August (lunar date)

Nearby

Pair Badimalika with

Far West & Karnali2,500 m

lakeLekhरामारोशन

Ramaroshan

Twelve lakes and eighteen meadows in the hills of Achham

Mar – May · Oct – Nov

Far West & Karnali3,000 m

national parkLekhखप्तड राष्ट्रिय निकुञ्ज

Khaptad National Park

High meadows where Khaptad Baba meditated for fifty years

Apr – May · Sep – Oct

Far West & Karnali2,370 m

hill townPahadजुम्ला

Jumla

Red rice, apple orchards and the old kingdom of the Karnali

Apr – May · Oct – Nov

Questions

Badimalika: what travellers ask

Where is Badimalika temple?

Badimalika temple is in ward 9 of Triveni municipality, Bajura district, Sudurpashchim Province, at about 4,220 m. It lies near where Bajura, Kalikot, Achham and Jumla meet, in the remote hills of far western Nepal.

How do I get to Badimalika from Kathmandu?

Fly Kathmandu to Dhangadhi, drive about 12 hours via Dipayal and Sanfebagar to Martadi, then trek three to four days to the temple. Plan ten to fourteen days in total from Kathmandu, including return. Check current status before you travel for roads and flights.

What is the best time for the Badimalika trek?

April to June and September to October for stable weather and clear views. August is the time of the Janai Purnima fair, with crowds and monsoon rain. Winter brings snow and makes the high trail dangerous.

How difficult is the Badimalika trek?

Challenging. Trails are long and unmarked, facilities are almost absent, and the temple is at about 4,220 m. You need good fitness, warm camping gear and a supported crew. It is not a teahouse trek.

Is there accommodation on the Badimalika trek?

Very little. A few village teahouses and homes may offer basic rooms near Martadi, but on the upper trail you must camp. During the fair, temporary tarpaulin tea shops appear at Triveni and near the temple.

Do I need a permit for Badimalika?

No national park or restricted area permit is required for Badimalika at the time of writing. Local fees may apply. A licensed guide is strongly recommended given the remote, unmarked trails. Check current status before you travel.

Is there mobile signal at Badimalika?

Nepal Telecom installed a 4G tower in the Badimalika area ahead of a recent Janai Purnima fair, so coverage is now available near the temple, though it may be patchy on the trail. Carry a satellite messenger for emergencies on remote stretches.

Is altitude sickness a risk at Badimalika?

Yes. At about 4,220 m, the temple is high enough for serious altitude sickness. Ascend gradually, sleep lower at Triveni, drink plenty of water and descend at once if you develop severe headache, vomiting or confusion.

Can I combine Badimalika with Ramaroshan or Khaptad?

Yes. Ramaroshan in Achham and Khaptad, where Bajura, Bajhang, Achham and Doti meet, are both in the same part of the far west. A longer trip could link two of them with careful planning, plenty of time and a strong support crew.

Why go

The temple at 4,220 m

The Janai Purnima fair

Triveni Dham

High pastures of Bajura

Nateshwori temple

Mallagiri, the mountain of the goddess

Who lives here

Dhido with gundruk

Things most guides leave out

Four ways to spend a day in Badimalika

The dawn climb from Triveni to the temple

Janai Purnima fair on the high pastures

Bathing and camping at Triveni Dham

Completing the pilgrimage at Nateshwori

How to reach Badimalika

Where to stay

Local tips

Badimalika and what is near it

Festivals here

Badimalika Janai Purnima Mela

Pair Badimalika with

Ramaroshan

Khaptad National Park

Jumla

Badimalika: what travellers ask

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