Asoj 2083 BSअसोज २०८३· Nepal runs on its own calendar

Far West & Karnali · national park

Khaptad National Park

खप्तड राष्ट्रिय निकुञ्ज

Khaptad National Park is a high plateau of meadows, forest and small lakes at about 3,000 m where Bajhang, Bajura, Achham and Doti districts meet. It was created in 1984 on the advice of Khaptad Baba, a hermit who lived here for some fifty years. Expect wildflowers, quiet temples and almost no other tourists.

  • Stay 2–3 nights
  • Best Apr – May · Sep – Oct
  • लेकLekh
Khaptad National Park
Photo: Rajanmaharjan · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Khaptad National Park

Altitude3,000 m33.9% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltLekhलेक · High hills: pasture, pine, the last fields
Each breath69%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils89.8 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-10.4 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 3,000 m; real days vary with weather.

Khaptad is unlike any other national park in Nepal. Instead of jungle or high peaks, it is a rolling plateau of grassland, called patan, broken by stands of fir, oak and rhododendron, small lakes and gentle streams. People in the far west talk about its twenty-two patans as if they were rooms of one great house, and in summer they fill with flowers.

The park covers 225 sq km between 1,400 and 3,300 m, with a further buffer zone around it. It holds over 560 recorded plant species, including more than 200 used in medicine, and wildlife such as leopard, Himalayan black bear, musk deer and the danphe pheasant. But for most visitors Khaptad is above all a place of peace, associated with one man.

Khaptad Baba, a renunciate born in Kashmir, came to these meadows in the 1940s and stayed for some fifty years. His hermitage, the temples around Triveni and the Sahasralinga shrine draw pilgrims, especially at the Ganga Dashahara fair. Getting here takes effort, a long drive and a walk of half a day or more, and that is part of the reward.

Why go

Khaptad Baba's hermitage

The simple ashram where Khaptad Baba lived for about fifty years is kept as a memorial in the heart of the park. Sit for a while in the quiet; many Nepali visitors come mainly to honour him and to read his teachings.

The twenty-two patans

Khaptad's meadows roll for kilometres between fir and rhododendron forest. Walk between them on wide grassy trails, with views south over the far western hills and north towards the snow peaks of Saipal on clear days.

Triveni and the Ganga Dashahara fair

Triveni, where three streams meet, is the park's main pilgrimage site. Once a year, on Ganga Dashahara in late May or June, thousands climb here from four districts to bathe, worship and sing Deuda through the night.

Sahasralinga and Khaptad Daha

The Sahasralinga shrine, the thousand lingas, sits on a high point a short walk from the small lake of Khaptad Daha and an old wooden Jagannath temple. Together they make a gentle half-day loop.

Monsoon wildflowers

From July to early September Khaptad's meadows flower, with primulas, gentians and many other species among the grass. It is wet and misty, but botanists and photographers find it the most rewarding season.

१The story of Khaptad National Park

The doctor who became Khaptad Baba

Khaptad Baba was born Shivanath Dogra in 1880, into a Dogra family of Kashmir. He trained as a doctor, studying in Calcutta and later surgery in Britain, before giving up medicine and taking sannyas, the vows of a Hindu renunciate. He studied and taught Eastern philosophy at the Dakshinamurti Math in Kashi, then wandered the Himalaya, staying at places such as Ilam, Kalinchowk, Swargadwari and Chandannath in Jumla.

In the 1940s he settled on the Khaptad plateau, then known only to herders and pilgrims, and lived there in a simple hermitage for more than fifty years. He became known across Nepal as Khaptad Baba, a teacher of plain living and spiritual discipline, and visitors came from across Nepal to sit with him. His talks were later collected and published in Nepali.

It was on his advice that the government declared Khaptad a national park in 1984, protecting the meadows and forest that he loved. A buffer zone of 216 sq km was added in 2006. Today his hermitage is kept as a memorial within the park, and many Nepali visitors come here as much for him as for the scenery.

२The legend
As it is told · खप्तड राष्ट्रिय निकुञ्ज

Local belief holds that the Khaptad plateau has been a place of sages since ancient times, and that the shrine of Sahasralinga, the thousand lingas, marks a spot where Shiva himself is present among the stones. At the Ganga Dashahara fair, pilgrims bathe at Triveni, the meeting of three streams, believing it washes away sins and helps the souls of their ancestors.

३The people

Who lives here

The villages around Khaptad belong to Khas communities of Bajhang, Bajura, Achham and Doti: Chhetri, Thakuri, Brahmin and Dalit families who speak Doteli, Bajhangi, Achhami and Bajureli forms of the far western language. They farm terraces below the park, take cattle and sheep up to its edges, collect herbs, and come to Triveni each year for the fair, singing Deuda through the night.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
पाटन
Patan

High open meadow; Khaptad is famous for its 22

Nepali
दह
Daha

Lake or pool, as in Khaptad Daha

Nepali
देउडा
Deuda

Circle song and dance sung at the Khaptad fair

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Kodo ko roti with ghee

Dark, dense flatbread of finger millet, cooked on an iron griddle and eaten with ghee, yoghurt or a potato and bean curry. It is daily food in the villages below Khaptad. Eat it in a village teahouse on the trail up, or ask your camp cook to make it.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Khaptad National Park was established in 1984 on the advice of Khaptad Baba, the hermit who had lived on the plateau since the 1940s. A buffer zone of 216 sq km was declared around it in 2006.

Wikipedia: Khaptad National Park

Khaptad Baba was born Shivanath Dogra in Kashmir in 1880 and trained as a doctor, studying in Calcutta and surgery in the UK, before renouncing medicine to become a Hindu ascetic.

Wikipedia: Khaptad Baba

Khaptad National Park records 567 plant species, of which 224 are medicinal, along with 287 bird species including the Himalayan monal, or danphe, and the white-rumped vulture.

Wikipedia: Khaptad National Park

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Khaptad National Park

Road

From Dhangadhi, drive north to Chainpur, the Bajhang headquarters, then about 2 hours to Meltadi in Khaptad Chhanna rural municipality, and walk about 4 hours up to the park. Another common route goes via Silgadhi in Doti and the trailhead at Jhingrana. Hill roads are slow; check current status before you travel.

Air

Fly Kathmandu to Dhangadhi in about 1 hour 15 minutes. Small planes have served airstrips in Bajhang, Doti, Achham and Bajura from Dhangadhi or Nepalgunj, which shortens the approach, but schedules are irregular; check current status before you travel.

On foot

All routes end with a walk of roughly 3–8 hours to the plateau, depending on the trailhead. A licensed guide is required for foreign trekkers in national parks under current rules.

Where to stay

Accommodation inside the park is very limited: there is a single basic lodge near the Nepal Army post and park office, with simple rooms and meals, and pilgrims' shelters near Triveni. Most foreign visitors come on a supported camping trek, with tents, a cook and porters, camping at designated sites in the meadows. Below the park, Chainpur in Bajhang and Silgadhi in Doti have simple hotels for the nights before and after the walk.

Local tips

  • Carry a good sleeping bag and warm layers; nights on the plateau are cold in every season.
  • Bring rain gear from June to September, when the meadows are in flower but mist and rain are frequent.
  • Book camping support in advance; there is very little food or shelter to buy on the plateau.
  • Keep silence and modest dress around Khaptad Baba's hermitage and the Triveni shrines.
  • Pay the national park entry fee and walk with a licensed guide; check current status before you travel.

On the map

Khaptad National Park and what is near it

Map of Khaptad National Park, Ramaroshan, Badimalika, DulluIndiaChinaNepalKhaptad National Park1Khaptad National ParkRamaroshan2RamaroshanBadimalika3BadimalikaDullu4Dullu50 kmN
  1. 1Khaptad National Park
  2. 2Ramaroshan
  3. 3Badimalika
  4. 4Dullu
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Khaptad National Park: what travellers ask

Where is Khaptad National Park?

Khaptad lies in Sudurpashchim Province of far western Nepal, where the districts of Bajhang, Bajura, Achham and Doti meet. The nearest large town and airport is Dhangadhi, about a day's drive to the south, with trailheads in Bajhang and Doti.

How do I get to Khaptad from Kathmandu?

Fly Kathmandu to Dhangadhi, then drive to a trailhead such as Chainpur and Meltadi in Bajhang or the Jhingrana side in Doti, and walk four to eight hours up to the plateau. Allow two days from Kathmandu to reach the park. Check current status before you travel for roads and flights.

What is the best time to visit Khaptad?

April to June for rhododendrons and mild weather, and September to November for clear skies. July and August bring wildflowers but also rain and mist. December to February is cold with snow on the plateau, and facilities close.

How many days do I need for Khaptad?

Plan five to seven days from Dhangadhi: a day or two to reach the trailhead, a day to climb up, two or three days on the plateau, and a day or two back. From Kathmandu, add a day at each end for flights.

Is there accommodation in Khaptad National Park?

Very little. There is one basic lodge near the army post and park office, and pilgrim shelters near Triveni, which are crowded at fair time. Most visitors camp with a supported trek. Book through a licensed agency.

Do I need a guide for Khaptad?

Yes. Since April 2023 foreign trekkers in national parks must walk with a licensed guide, and Khaptad's trails and logistics are complex. You also pay the national park entry fee. Check current status before you travel.

What is the Ganga Dashahara fair at Khaptad?

It is the yearly religious fair at Triveni in Khaptad, held on the tenth day of the bright half of Jestha, usually late May or June. Thousands of pilgrims from Bajhang, Bajura, Achham and Doti gather to bathe, worship and sing Deuda through the night.

What wildlife lives in Khaptad?

Khaptad records 23 mammal species, including leopard, Himalayan black bear, dhole and musk deer, and 287 bird species, among them the danphe pheasant and peregrine falcon. Sightings of large mammals are rare; birds and flowers are the main wildlife experience.

Is Khaptad good for meditation or a retreat?

Yes. Its silence, the legacy of Khaptad Baba and the open meadows make it a natural place for reflection. There is no formal retreat centre, so bring your own practice. A few quiet days camping on the plateau can be deeply restful.

Plan with a local planner

Tell us your height, we will find the trail

Easy hills or a 5,000 m pass, a week or a month: three short questions and a planner sends a first plan, with the sleeping height of every night and an itemised price.

  1. १Tell us where, when and how high you want to go
  2. २Get a first plan and an itemised price within one working day
  3. ३Change anything until it fits. Pay a deposit only when you book
Plan my Nepal trip