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Far West & Karnali · pilgrimage site

Dullu

दुल्लु

Dullu, in Dailekh district, was the winter capital of the Khasa Malla kings and later a small kingdom of its own. It is famous for natural gas flames that burn inside shrines at Shirasthan and Nabhisthan, part of the Panchakoshi pilgrimage, and for King Prithvi Malla's inscribed stone pillar of 1357.

  • Stay 1–2 nights
  • Best Mar – Apr · Oct – Nov
  • पहाडPahad
Dullu
Photo: Santhosh Notagar99 · CC0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Dullu

Altitude1,400 m15.8% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath84%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils95.3 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu0.0 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 1,400 m; real days vary with weather.

Few places in Nepal combine fire, kings and the written word quite like Dullu. On a broad ridge in the middle hills of Dailekh, it was the winter seat of the Khasa emperors who spent their summers in Sinja. Around it, gas seeps from the ground and burns in small blue and yellow flames that pilgrims have worshipped for centuries.

The flames are the heart of the Panchakoshi, a circuit of five holy sites around Dullu: Shirasthan, Nabhisthan, Dhuleshwar, Padukasthan and Tallo Dungeshwar. Three of them lie within Dullu municipality. Nath ascetics tend the fire shrines, and pilgrims come from across western Nepal, especially at festivals.

Dullu is also a place of inscriptions. A stone pillar raised by King Prithvi Malla in 1357, listing his ancestors back to the dynasty's founder Nagaraj, still stands, and stones here are counted among the earliest examples of written Nepali. Combine Dullu with Surkhet and Bardia for a short cultural extension to a wildlife trip.

Why go

The flame of Shirasthan

At Shirasthan in Rawatkot a natural gas flame burns inside the shrine, tended by a Nath ascetic who keeps the fire and receives pilgrims. It is the best known of Dullu's flames and the first stop for most visitors.

Nabhisthan, the navel shrine

At Nabhisthan in Gamaudi, near the Nabhisthan stream, another sacred flame is worshipped as the navel of the divine body. It is quieter than Shirasthan, set among terraced fields, and pilgrims make offerings at the small shrine.

Prithvi Malla's pillar

The inscribed stone pillar of 1357 is the most important single record of the Khasa empire, naming its kings back to Nagaraj. Seeing it in place, in the town where the emperors wintered, connects you to seven centuries of history.

Dhuleshwar temple

Dhuleshwar in Badalamji is a 13th-century temple and one of the five Panchakoshi sites, where special worship is held at Dashain and Chaite Dashain. Its old stone carving is a highlight for heritage lovers.

The Panchakoshi circuit

Pilgrims walk or drive between the five holy sites over one or two days. Following the circuit with a local guide takes you through terraced villages and pine slopes with wide views over the Dailekh hills.

१The story of Dullu

Winter capital of the Khasa emperors

The Khasa Malla kings ruled from two capitals: Sinja in Jumla for the summer, and Dullu, warmer and lower, for the winter. At the empire's height under Prithvi Malla in the 14th century, its territory reached from Guge and Purang in Tibet to Dullu in the south-west and Kaskikot near Pokhara in the east. Scholars who have studied the site note how closely the palace and the flame temples were linked; the kings drew part of their authority from this sacred landscape.

In 1357 (Shaka 1279) Prithvi Malla set up an inscribed stone pillar at Dullu. Its text, studied by the scholar Yogi Naraharinath, lists the kings before him back to Nagaraj, who founded the capital at Semja, the Sinja of today. It remains one of the most important sources for the history of the Khasa empire.

When the empire broke up, Dullu became one of the twenty-two Baise kingdoms. Remarkably, it survived as a small principality under the Nepali state until the early 1960s, when it was absorbed fully under King Mahendra. Today Dullu is a municipality of farming villages, with schools, a busy bazaar and a steady flow of pilgrims to the flames.

२The legend
As it is told · दुल्लु

Local tradition explains the flames through the body of a deity scattered across the hills: Shirasthan for the head, Nabhisthan for the navel, Padukasthan for the feet, and Dhuleshwar where ashes fell. Many people in Dailekh tell it as the body of the goddess Sati, carried by the grieving Shiva; others link the sites to Vishnu. Pilgrims treat each flame as a living presence of the divine.

३The people

Who lives here

Dullu's people are almost all Khas Nepali speakers: Chhetri families are the largest group, with Kami, Thakuri, Brahmin, Sarki and Damai communities, and small numbers of Magar. In the 2011 census 99.7 percent spoke Nepali as their first language. They farm rice, maize, wheat and millet on terraces, keep buffalo and goats, and many men work seasonally in India.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
ज्वाला
Jwala

Flame; the sacred natural gas fires of Dullu

Nepali
कीर्तिस्तम्भ
Kirti stambha

Memorial pillar recording a king's deeds

Nepali
पञ्चकोशी
Panchakoshi

The five-shrine pilgrimage circuit around Dullu

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Sisnu ko tarkari

A thick green soup of stinging nettle, picked young with tongs, boiled until the sting goes, then cooked with cornmeal or rice flour, garlic and chilli. It is a hill staple across Dailekh. Eat it with rice or millet dhido in a village home or a bhatti in Dullu bazaar.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

King Prithvi Malla's stone pillar inscription at Dullu is dated Shaka 1279, which is 1357 CE. It names his predecessors and records that the dynasty's founder Nagaraj set up his capital at Semja, today's Sinja.

Wikipedia: Khasa Kingdom

Dullu was the winter capital of the Khasa Malla kings, and later a small kingdom that kept a semi-independent status until the early 1960s, when it was annexed fully under King Mahendra.

Wikipedia: Dullu

Because of its ever-burning natural gas flames, the Panchakoshi area of Dailekh is also called Jwala Tirtha or Agni Tirtha, the pilgrimage of flame.

Onlinekhabar English: Panchakoshi in Dailekh

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Dullu

Road

From Nepalgunj, drive to Surkhet (Birendranagar) in about 2.5–3 hours, then on to Dailekh bazaar and Dullu, a further 4–5 hours on hill roads depending on conditions. Jeeps and buses also run from Surkhet. Roads can be blocked by landslides in the monsoon; check current status before you travel.

Air

The nearest airports are Surkhet, with small-plane links in the region, and Nepalgunj, with frequent flights from Kathmandu of about 1 hour. Most travellers fly to Nepalgunj and continue by private jeep.

Where to stay

Dullu bazaar and nearby Dailekh bazaar, the district headquarters, have simple hotels and guesthouses used by government staff and pilgrims, with basic rooms, shared or attached bathrooms and dal bhat. Standards are modest and English is limited, so travel with a guide. Surkhet (Birendranagar), the Karnali Province capital, has more comfortable hotels and is a good base before or after Dullu.

Local tips

  • Go with a local guide who can find all five Panchakoshi sites and speak with the Nath priests.
  • Remove shoes before the flame shrines, do not blow on or touch the flames, and ask before photographing the priests.
  • Carry small notes for offerings and for tea stops; there are no ATMs at the shrines.
  • Visit outside the monsoon, when hill roads around Dailekh are often blocked by landslides.
  • Festival days at Dhuleshwar and the flame shrines are crowded but memorable; check current status before you travel for dates.

On the map

Dullu and what is near it

Map of Dullu, Jumla, Sinja Valley, Bardia National ParkIndiaChinaNepalDullu1DulluJumla2JumlaSinja Valley3Sinja ValleyBardia National Park4Bardia National Park50 kmN
  1. 1Dullu
  2. 2Jumla
  3. 3Sinja Valley
  4. 4Bardia National Park
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Dullu: what travellers ask

Where is Dullu?

Dullu is a municipality in Dailekh district, Karnali Province, in the middle hills of western Nepal. It lies north-west of Dailekh bazaar, the district headquarters, and is reached by road from Surkhet and Nepalgunj.

What are the flames of Dullu?

They are natural gas flames burning where gas seeps from the ground, worshipped as divine at shrines like Shirasthan and Nabhisthan. Some have been tended for centuries by Nath priests. The area is called Jwala Tirtha, the pilgrimage of flame.

How do I get to Dullu from Kathmandu?

Fly Kathmandu to Nepalgunj in about an hour, drive to Surkhet in about 2.5–3 hours, then continue 4–5 hours by hill road to Dullu. Many travellers break the journey with a night in Surkhet. A private jeep with a driver is the most practical option.

How long should I stay in Dullu?

One night lets you see Shirasthan, Nabhisthan and the Prithvi Malla pillar. Two nights let you complete the Panchakoshi circuit at an easy pace and spend time in the villages. Add travel days from Nepalgunj or Surkhet.

When is the best time to visit Dullu?

October to April is best, with dry roads and clear views; Dashain in October and Chaite Dashain in spring bring festival crowds. The monsoon from June to September often blocks hill roads with landslides.

Is Dullu connected to Sinja?

Yes. Both were capitals of the Khasa Malla kings: Sinja in Jumla for the summer and Dullu for the winter. Prithvi Malla's pillar at Dullu names Sinja, as Semja, as the dynasty's founding capital.

Is there accommodation in Dullu?

There are simple hotels and guesthouses in Dullu and in Dailekh bazaar, with basic rooms and Nepali meals. For more comfort, stay in Surkhet and visit Dullu on a long day trip, though the road time makes an overnight more relaxed.

Do I need a permit to visit Dullu?

No special permit is required. Dullu is outside national parks and restricted areas. A licensed guide is not legally required, but is very helpful for finding sites, translating and arranging transport. Check current status before you travel.

Can I combine Dullu with Bardia?

Yes. Bardia and Dullu are both reached via Nepalgunj or Kohalpur. A good plan is three nights in Bardia, then two nights for Surkhet and Dullu, before flying back from Nepalgunj. Allow plenty of time for hill roads.

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