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Far West & Karnali · national park

Bardia National Park

बर्दिया राष्ट्रिय निकुञ्ज

Bardia is Nepal's largest national park in the Terai, 968 sq km of sal forest, grassland and braided river on the east bank of the Karnali. It gives one of the best chances in Asia of seeing a wild tiger, with far fewer visitors than Chitwan. Base yourself at Thakurdwara, about two hours from Nepalgunj.

  • Stay 3–4 nights
  • Best Feb – Apr · Nov
  • तराईTerai
Bardia National Park
Photo: Prabina Karki · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Bardia National Park

Altitude152 m1.7% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltTeraiतराई · The plains: sal forest, rice, rhino country
Each breath98%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils99.5 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu+8.1 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 152 m; real days vary with weather.

Bardia is where we send people who want to see a tiger and are willing to wait for it. The park runs from the Karnali river in the west to the Babai valley in the east, and from the Siwalik ridge down to the farmland of the plains. About 70 percent is forest, mostly sal, broken by phantas of tall grass and the wide gravel islands of the Geruwa, the eastern channel of the Karnali.

The wildlife list is long: Bengal tiger, Asian elephant including big tuskers that wander across from India, greater one-horned rhino, swamp deer, leopard, sloth bear, mugger and gharial crocodiles, and over 400 species of birds. The Karnali also holds one of Nepal's last populations of the Gangetic dolphin, which surfaces with a soft puff in the deep pools below Chisapani. Bird lists include the Bengal florican, sarus crane and great slaty woodpecker, and in winter bar-headed geese rest on the river.

What makes Bardia different is the pace. There are a handful of lodges, almost all in Thakurdwara on the south-western edge of the park. Days begin before sunrise with naturalists who have tracked these animals all their lives, and safaris are on foot, by jeep and by raft. Evenings are quiet: Tharu villages, rice fields and a sky with very few lights. It is the kind of place where people plan three nights and wish they had booked five.

Why go

Waiting for tigers on the Karnali

Bardia's classic tiger safari is a full day by jeep and on foot along the Geruwa and Karnali channels, with long waits at viewpoints over river crossings where tigers come to drink. Hot afternoons in March, April and May give the best odds of seeing one.

Walking safaris with naturalists

Bardia is one of the few parks in Nepal where walking is the main way to explore. Two licensed naturalists lead small groups through grassland and sal forest, reading pugmarks, alarm calls and scratch marks. It is slower than a jeep and far more absorbing.

Dolphins below Chisapani

A small population of the endangered Gangetic dolphin lives in the Karnali. Rafting or floating trips from the Chisapani bridge area pass deep pools where they surface to breathe, along with gharial and mugger crocodiles basking on the sandbanks.

Tharu villages around Thakurdwara

The lanes outside the park gate lead to Tharu villages with clay-walled houses, rice granaries and painted walls. Walk or cycle through them in the late afternoon, or spend a night in a community homestay to eat with a family.

Babai valley wilderness

The Babai valley in the eastern park, once farmed, is now regenerated forest and grassland with very little traffic. Full-day jeep trips there, with permission and a guide, reach some of the quietest corners of the Terai.

१The story of Bardia National Park

From royal hunting ground to tiger stronghold

This land has changed hands more than once. Under the Sugauli Treaty of 1815, Nepal lost the western Terai to the East India Company. In 1860 the British returned it, in thanks for Nepal's help in putting down the 1857 uprising in India, and people here still call the four districts of Banke, Bardia, Kailali and Kanchanpur Naya Muluk, the new country. For a century the forest belonged mainly to the Tharu and to malaria. Bardia's Tharu still use the old name with a mix of pride and irony.

In 1969 an area of 368 sq km was set aside as a royal hunting reserve. It became the Royal Karnali Wildlife Reserve in 1976 and the Royal Bardia Wildlife Reserve in 1982, and in 1984 it was extended to include the Babai valley. About 1,500 people who lived in the Babai valley were resettled elsewhere, and the abandoned fields there have since grown back into prime habitat. In 1988 the reserve became a national park. The cleared Babai valley is now one of the best places in the Terai to feel truly alone in the forest.

Rhinos were brought from Chitwan from 1986 onwards; poaching during the years of conflict nearly wiped them out from the Babai valley, but protection improved and numbers recovered in the Karnali floodplain. Tigers have done better still. The national tiger count released in July 2026 put Bardia at 112, one of the highest densities in Nepal. Living close to tigers has a cost: in 2021 a few tigers killed several people in villages around the park, and the relationship between farmers and wildlife is something every guide here will talk about honestly.

३The people

Who lives here

Most villages around Thakurdwara are Tharu, many of them Dangaura Tharu whose families once lived inside what is now the park. In the 2011 census well over half the people of Thakurbaba municipality spoke Tharu at home. Tharu farm rice, lentils and mustard, fish in the rivers and canals, and paint their mud homes with clay reliefs. Hill families who came south from the 1960s now run shops, lodges and guiding businesses.

४Words you will hear
Tharu
घोंघी
Ghonghi

Freshwater snails, cooked in a spicy gravy

Tharu
बरघर
Barghar

Elected village headman in a Tharu community

Nepali
बाघ
Bagh

Tiger; your guide will whisper it

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Ghonghi

River snails collected from paddy fields and canals, cooked in a rich gravy of onion, garlic, chilli and toasted rice flour, then eaten by sucking the meat from the shell. It is a Tharu favourite. Ask your lodge to arrange it, or eat it with a family on a Tharu village visit near Thakurdwara.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Bardia was handed to the British East India Company under the Sugauli Treaty of 1815 and returned to Nepal in 1860. The four districts that came back are still called Naya Muluk, meaning the new country.

Wikipedia: Bardiya National Park

Rhinos were translocated to Bardia from Chitwan from 1986, with 58 animals moved by 2000. Poaching then destroyed the Babai valley population almost entirely by 2008, before protection helped numbers recover in the Karnali floodplain.

Wikipedia: Bardiya National Park

In 1985 two large wild elephant bulls appeared in Bardia for the first time and were named Raja Gaj and Kanchha. Raja Gaj stood about 3.4 m at the shoulder and has been compared to a mammoth for his domed head.

Wikipedia: Bardiya National Park

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Bardia National Park

Air

Fly Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, about one hour with several daily departures. From Nepalgunj airport it is about 95 km and 2 hours by road to Thakurdwara, via Kohalpur and the East-West Highway to Ambassa, then 13 km north on a local road.

Road

Kathmandu to Thakurdwara is about 500 km and 12–14 hours by private car or tourist bus, via Mugling, Narayanghat and Butwal. Most travellers break the journey at Lumbini or Chitwan. Night buses run to Nepalgunj, but a private vehicle is safer and more comfortable.

Where to stay

Almost all accommodation is in Thakurdwara, a village strung along the road to the park headquarters. Tiger Tops Karnali Lodge, at the edge of the park, is the most comfortable option, with cottage rooms, a farm and naturalist-led safaris. There are also a dozen simple family-run lodges and resorts in Thakurdwara with fans, hot water and garden cottages, many owned by local guides. For a Tharu home stay, the community homestay at Dalla village, near the Khata corridor, gives a night with a family and their meals.

Local tips

  • Spend at least three nights; tiger sightings come to those who give the forest time.
  • Wear muted greens and browns on walking safaris and avoid strong perfume or insect spray scents.
  • Carry your own water and a packed lunch on full-day safaris; there is nothing to buy inside the park.
  • Many Bardia lodges close from mid-June to late September for the monsoon, so check before planning a summer trip.
  • Park entry is charged per day at the Thakurdwara headquarters; your lodge usually arranges permits, so check current status before you travel.

On the map

Bardia National Park and what is near it

Map of Bardia National Park, Ghodaghodi Tal, Shuklaphanta National ParkIndiaChinaNepalBardia National Park1Bardia National ParkGhodaghodi Tal2Ghodaghodi TalShuklaphanta National Park3Shuklaphanta National Park50 kmN
  1. 1Bardia National Park
  2. 2Ghodaghodi Tal
  3. 3Shuklaphanta National Park
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Bardia National Park: what travellers ask

How many days do I need in Bardia?

Three nights is the minimum we suggest, four is better. That allows one full-day tiger safari, one walking safari, a river trip and a village visit, with a spare morning in case fog or rain spoils a day. Add a night each way if you travel by road from Kathmandu rather than flying to Nepalgunj.

What is the best time to see tigers in Bardia?

March, April and May. By then the grass has been cut and burnt, visibility is good and the heat brings tigers to the rivers. February and October to December are pleasant and still productive. From mid-June to late September the monsoon closes most lodges and safaris.

How do I get from Nepalgunj airport to Bardia?

By private car or jeep, about 95 km and two hours, via Kohalpur, along the East-West Highway to Ambassa and then north to Thakurdwara. Lodges arrange pick-ups to meet flights. Local buses run to Ambassa, but with luggage a private transfer is much easier.

Is Bardia better than Chitwan?

It is different. Bardia is wilder and quieter, with walking safaris and good tiger chances, but it takes longer to reach and has fewer lodges. Chitwan is easier, busier and better for rhino and family activities. If wildlife is your main goal and you have the time, Bardia is our first choice.

Do I need a guide in Bardia National Park?

Yes. All safaris inside the park, on foot, by jeep or by raft, are led by licensed naturalist guides, and walking safaris always use two. Since April 2023 Nepal also requires foreign visitors to national parks to have a licensed guide. Your lodge will arrange guides and permits; check current status before you travel.

What is the entry fee for Bardia National Park?

Foreign visitors pay a daily entry fee at the park office in Thakurdwara, with lower rates for SAARC nationals and Nepalis. Jeep, raft and guide fees are separate. The fees are revised from time to time, so check current status before you travel; most lodges include permits in their package rates.

Is there mobile signal and electricity in Thakurdwara?

Yes. Thakurdwara has mobile signal from Nepal Telecom and Ncell, and most lodges have electricity, Wi-Fi of variable speed and hot water. Inside the park there is little or no signal. Power cuts are less common than they once were, and the better lodges have solar or backup power.

Can I visit Bardia during the monsoon?

It is not a good idea. From mid-June to late September rivers rise, forest roads close, many lodges shut and the grass grows above head height. A few lodges stay open for village and birding stays, but safaris are limited. Plan for October to May instead.

Are there elephant rides in Bardia?

Some operators once offered them, but many lodges, including Tiger Tops, no longer run elephant rides on welfare grounds, and we do not book them. Jeep, walking and river safaris give better wildlife viewing anyway. You may see captive elephants at the government elephant stables near the park, and wild herds in the forest.

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