Rafting the Karnali for dolphins and gharial

The Karnali leaves the hills at Chisapani, where the cable-stayed Karnali Bridge carries the East-West Highway over the gorge. Below it the river spreads into wide, braided channels on the western edge of Bardia, and this is where river trips begin. Here the water slows, splits around forested islands and runs between high banks of sand and gravel. The park lies on the eastern side, and from the water you see its forest edge without engine noise or dust. Boatmen from the riverside villages know every channel.

From a raft you drift quietly past sandbanks where mugger crocodiles bask and, with luck, the long, narrow snout of a gharial shows above the water. In the deeper pools the Gangetic dolphin surfaces to breathe with a short puff of air; it is almost blind and finds its way by sound. Sightings are brief, so keep watching the water downstream. Kingfishers, ospreys, cormorants and river lapwings are common along the banks.

Trips are calm floats rather than whitewater, suitable for most ages, and many include a riverside lunch and a short walk on the forest bank. Mornings in autumn and spring are best, when the water is clear and the light is soft. Bring a hat and sunscreen; the glare off the water is strong. Wear sandals or quick-drying shoes, and keep cameras in a dry bag between sightings. Most lodges can arrange the trip with a day's notice.