Asoj 2083 BSअसोज २०८३· Nepal runs on its own calendar

Mustang & Dolpo · lake

Shey Phoksundo

शे फोक्सुण्डो

Phoksundo Lake lies at about 3,612 m in Shey Phoksundo National Park, Nepal's largest national park, in Dolpo. Held back by an ancient landslide on which the Bon village of Ringmo stands, it is up to 136–145 m deep and famous for its turquoise colour. It is reached on a 3-day trek from Juphal airport.

  • Stay 2–3 nights
  • Best May – Jun · Sep – Oct
  • लेकLekh
Shey Phoksundo
Photo: Rucksackschule-dresden · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Shey Phoksundo

Altitude3,612 m40.8% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltLekhलेक · High hills: pasture, pine, the last fields
Each breath64%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils87.7 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-14.4 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 3,612 m; real days vary with weather.

The first sight of Phoksundo is something people talk about for years. After three days walking up from Juphal through pine forest and gorges, past a waterfall that drops 167 m from the lake's outlet, you climb onto a ridge and the lake opens out below: an impossible turquoise, deep blue in the middle, ringed by bare grey cliffs and snow peaks, with the stone houses and chortens of Ringmo on its southern shore.

Phoksundo is the jewel of Shey Phoksundo National Park, established in 1984 and covering 3,555 km² of Dolpa and Mugu districts, the largest national park in Nepal and its only trans-Himalayan one. The lake covers 494 ha. Surveys have measured its maximum depth at 145 m in 2004 and 136 m in 2019, making it one of the deepest lakes in Nepal. It was designated a Ramsar wetland of international importance in 2007.

This is Dolpo, a culturally Tibetan region of Karnali Province, remote even by Nepali standards. Peter Matthiessen walked through here in 1973 on the journey he described in The Snow Leopard, and Eric Valli's 1999 film Himalaya, also released as Caravan, was shot in Dolpo. We bring guests to Phoksundo on Lower Dolpo treks of 10–14 days, or as the start of the much longer Upper Dolpo route north to Shey Gompa.

Why go

First sight of the lake

The ridge above Ringmo where the trail from Juphal first reveals Phoksundo is one of the great viewpoints in Nepal: turquoise water, grey cliffs, snow peaks and the village below. Arrive in the morning when the colour is strongest and the wind is calm.

Ringmo village

The Bon village on the landslide dam at the lake's south end, with stone houses, chortens, prayer walls and fields. Walk around it counter-clockwise, the Bon direction, and stop for butter tea with a family if invited. Seasonal population is around 200.

The 167 m waterfall

Below Ringmo, the lake's outflow plunges 167 m over the edge of the landslide dam. The trail from Juphal passes viewpoints on the final day of the approach. It is most powerful in early summer, when snowmelt swells the river.

Bon gompa on the eastern shore

A short walk along the lake from Ringmo brings you to a Bon gompa on the eastern shore, with prayer flags reflected in the water. Annual rituals are held here. A caretaker may open the shrine room; leave a donation.

The western shore trail

A narrow path cut into the cliffs along the lake's western side leads north towards Upper Dolpo and Shey Gompa. The first section gives dramatic views over the water. Beyond it, the Upper Dolpo restricted area permit is required.

Wildlife of the park

Blue sheep graze the slopes above the lake, and the park protects snow leopards, Himalayan tahr, musk deer, grey wolves and black bears. Lammergeiers ride the air over the cliffs. Seeing a snow leopard is rare; patient scanning of the slopes at dawn gives the best chance.

१The story of Shey Phoksundo

A lake made by a landslide, a village of Bon

Tens of thousands of years ago, a vast landslide fell into the valley of the Suligad river and blocked it. Behind the dam, water rose to form Phoksundo Lake. The dam is thought to be 30,000 to 40,000 years old, and the village of Ringmo is built on top of it. The lake's outflow cuts through the debris and plunges over a 167 m waterfall just south of the village, before rushing down to the Thuli Bheri. The lake is still young, in geological terms.

Ringmo is a small village of Tibetan-speaking families, most of them followers of Bon, who live by trade, yak herding, farming and, more recently, tourism. Its seasonal population is around 200. A Bon gompa, also named Ringmo, stands just outside the village, and another gompa on the lake's eastern shore holds annual prayers. Families keep their houses of stone and timber close together against the cold, with chortens, prayer walls and fields of barley and buckwheat around them. In winter, many families move down to lower villages and the lake shore falls quiet.

Above the lake, Dolpo extends north into some of the highest inhabited valleys in the world. Peter Matthiessen and the biologist George Schaller came this way in 1973, heading for Shey Gompa, the Crystal Monastery, to study blue sheep and look for the snow leopard. Matthiessen's book won the US National Book Award. Today the park protects snow leopards, blue sheep, musk deer and wolves, and the lake has become Dolpo's best-known destination, yet it remains far quieter than the Annapurna or Everest trails.

३The people

Who lives here

The people of Phoksundo and the wider Dolpo region, the Dolpo-pa, speak a Tibetan dialect and Nepali. Around the lake many follow Bon; elsewhere in Dolpo, Tibetan Buddhism. They farm barley and buckwheat in short summers, herd yaks and goats between villages and high pastures, and traditionally traded salt from Tibet for grain from the south. Amchi, traditional Tibetan doctors, still treat patients in Dolpo.

४Words you will hear
Tibetan
མཚོ
tso

lake

Tibetan
ཨེམ་ཆི
amchi

traditional Tibetan doctor, still practising in Dolpo

Nepali
ताल
tal

lake; Phoksundo Tal is the Nepali name

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Yak sukuti

Sukuti is meat cut into strips and air-dried in the cold, dry wind of the high valleys, then fried with chilli, garlic and onion or chewed as it is. In Ringmo, families dry yak and goat meat in autumn; lodges serve it fried as a side dish with dal-bhat or tsampa.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Phoksundo Lake was designated a Ramsar wetland of international importance in September 2007. Its maximum depth was measured at 145 m in a 2004 survey and 136.2 m in a 2019 survey by Nepal's Department of Hydrology and Meteorology.

Wikipedia: Phoksundo Lake

A 2019–2022 study by Nepal's Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation, supported by WWF, found 90 snow leopards in Shey Phoksundo National Park, a density of 2.21 per 100 km².

Wikipedia: Shey Phoksundo National Park

Peter Matthiessen never saw a snow leopard on the 1973 journey through Dolpo that he described in The Snow Leopard. The book won the US National Book Award in 1979 and 1980, in two categories.

Wikipedia: The Snow Leopard

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Shey Phoksundo

Air

Fly Kathmandu–Nepalgunj (about 1 hour), stay a night, then take an early flight to Juphal (Dolpa Airport, 2,499 m), about 45 minutes. Flights are weather-dependent and often delayed, especially in the monsoon; keep spare days at both ends.

On foot

From Juphal, walk to Dunai, Chhepka, Rechi or Amchi Hospital and Ringmo over 3 days, gaining about 1,100 m. The trail follows the Suligad gorge through forest, then climbs past the waterfall to the lake.

Road

Jeep roads now reach Dunai, the district headquarters, from the south, but the journey from Nepalgunj is long, rough and often blocked. For most visitors, the flight to Juphal is the practical choice. Check current status before you travel.

Where to stay

Ringmo has a handful of simple lodges and campsites run by local families, with basic twin rooms, shared toilets and dining rooms heated by a stove. Food is simple: dal-bhat, potatoes, tsampa, noodles and tea. Bring a four-season sleeping bag. On the approach from Juphal, there are small lodges at Dunai, Chhepka and Rechi. Many organised treks in Dolpo still camp, with tents, cooks and porters, which gives more flexibility. There are no hotels of a higher standard anywhere in Dolpo.

Local tips

  • Keep at least two spare days in your plan for flights between Nepalgunj and Juphal, which are often delayed by weather.
  • Walk counter-clockwise around chortens and gompas in Ringmo, following the Bon custom of the village.
  • Do not swim in or wash with soap in the lake; it is sacred to local people and its ecology is fragile.
  • Bring enough cash in Nepali rupees for the whole trek; there are no reliable ATMs beyond Nepalgunj.
  • Carry warm layers even in summer; nights at 3,600 m are cold and the wind off the lake is strong.

On the map

Shey Phoksundo and what is near it

Map of Shey Phoksundo, Dho TarapIndiaChinaNepalGandakiShey Phoksundo1Shey PhoksundoDho Tarap2Dho Tarap50 kmN
  1. 1Shey Phoksundo
  2. 2Dho Tarap
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Shey Phoksundo: what travellers ask

Where is Shey Phoksundo Lake?

Phoksundo Lake is in Shey Phoksundo National Park in Dolpa district, Karnali Province, in north-western Nepal, at about 3,612 m. The village of Ringmo sits on its southern shore. It is reached by flying Kathmandu–Nepalgunj–Juphal and then trekking for about 3 days up the Suligad valley.

How deep is Phoksundo Lake?

Surveys by Nepal's Department of Hydrology and Meteorology measured a maximum depth of 145 m in 2004 and 136.2 m in 2019, making it one of the deepest lakes in Nepal. The lake covers 494 ha and holds an estimated 409 million cubic metres of water. Its depth gives it a deep blue centre.

What permits do I need for Shey Phoksundo?

You need a Shey Phoksundo National Park entry permit and a TIMS card, and since April 2023 a licensed guide in protected areas. Parts of Lower Dolpo, such as Dho Tarap, need a Lower Dolpo restricted area permit, and Upper Dolpo needs its own, costlier permit. Rules change often; check current status before you travel.

What is the best time to visit Phoksundo Lake?

May–June and September–October are best, with clear skies and open trails. July and August are possible, as Dolpo lies partly in a rain shadow, but flights to Juphal are often disrupted. From November to April snow can close high trails and many families leave Ringmo for lower valleys.

How do I get to Juphal?

Fly from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj in about an hour, stay overnight, then take an early morning flight to Juphal (Dolpa Airport, 2,499 m), about 45 minutes. Flights are small, weather-dependent and often delayed or cancelled. Build in at least two spare days for the round trip.

Are there lodges at Phoksundo Lake?

Yes, Ringmo has a few simple family-run lodges and campsites, with basic rooms, shared toilets and stove-heated dining rooms. Simple lodges also exist at Dunai, Chhepka and Rechi on the approach. Many organised groups still camp. Bring a four-season sleeping bag, and expect very basic facilities.

Was the film Himalaya shot at Phoksundo?

Eric Valli's 1999 film Himalaya, also released as Caravan, was filmed in Dolpo and shows the life of Upper Dolpo people, including a yak caravan carrying salt to trade for grain. It was the first Nepali film nominated for an Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film. Many trekkers watch it before coming.

Is Shey Phoksundo the largest national park in Nepal?

Yes. Shey Phoksundo National Park covers 3,555 km² in Dolpa and Mugu districts, making it the largest national park in Nepal and the only one in the trans-Himalayan zone. It was established in 1984 and ranges from about 2,130 m to 6,883 m at the summit of Kanjiroba Himal.

How cold is it at Phoksundo Lake?

In May–June and September–October, days are usually 10–18 °C and nights fall to around −5 to 0 °C. In late autumn, nights drop well below freezing, and winter brings heavy snow and temperatures far below zero. Wind off the lake can be strong in the afternoons, so carry warm, windproof layers.

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