Mustang & Dolpo · Shey Phoksundo
Shey festival (Shey Mela)
शे मेला
The Shey festival is held only once every 12 years, in the Tibetan year of the Dragon, at Shey Gompa, the Crystal Monastery of Upper Dolpo. Pilgrims walk around the Crystal Mountain, lamas give teachings, and there are horse races and archery. The last was in 2024; the next is expected in 2036.
Shey Gompa, the Crystal Monastery, stands at about 4,200 m in Upper Dolpo, north of Phoksundo Lake. Founded in the 11th century, it is regarded as the spiritual heart of Upper Dolpo, and the Crystal Mountain above it is a sacred peak for the people of the region. Once every twelve years, in the Tibetan year of the Dragon, a great festival is held here. It took place in 2012 and in 2024, and the next is expected in 2036.
During the festival, pilgrims from across Dolpo and beyond walk the kora, the circuit around the Crystal Mountain, a long walk at high altitude. Lamas give teachings and blessings, and there are cultural performances, horse races and archery contests. Local tradition links the festival's origins to a victory over evil spirits. It was at Shey that Peter Matthiessen and George Schaller arrived in 1973, the journey told in The Snow Leopard.
Reaching Shey is a serious undertaking. From Phoksundo Lake, the route runs along the lake's western shore and crosses the Kang La, at over 5,300 m, taking 3–4 days. It lies in Upper Dolpo, which requires its own restricted area permit, a licensed guide and a fully supported camping trek. Outside festival years, Shey can still be visited on Upper Dolpo treks, usually in May–June and September–October.
Tips
- Plan years ahead for the next festival, expected in 2036, and confirm the exact dates locally.
- Allow at least three weeks from Kathmandu for a trek to Shey via Juphal and Phoksundo Lake.
- Arrive acclimatised: Shey is at about 4,200 m and the kora goes higher.
Questions
How often is the Shey festival held?
The Shey festival is held once every 12 years, in the Tibetan year of the Dragon, at Shey Gompa in Upper Dolpo. It took place in 2012 and in 2024, and the next is expected in 2036. Exact dates follow the Tibetan lunar calendar and are confirmed nearer the time; check current status before you travel.
Where is Shey Gompa?
Shey Gompa, the Crystal Monastery, is in Upper Dolpo in Dolpa district, at about 4,200 m, north of Phoksundo Lake in Shey Phoksundo National Park. It is reached in 3–4 days from Ringmo via the western shore of the lake and the Kang La pass, over 5,300 m. It was founded in the 11th century.
What permit do I need for the Shey festival?
Shey lies in Upper Dolpo, which needs a restricted area permit, as we understand it USD 500 per person for the first 10 days and USD 50 per day after, plus a Shey Phoksundo National Park permit. The permit is issued through a registered agency for at least two trekkers with a licensed guide. Check current status before you travel.
Can I visit Shey Gompa outside the festival year?
Yes. Shey Gompa can be visited on Upper Dolpo treks in any season when the passes are open, usually May–June and September–October. You will see the monastery and the Crystal Mountain, and may be able to walk the kora with a guide, but without the crowds, teachings and games of the 12-yearly festival.