Wildlife · Shey Phoksundo
Snow leopard country and the road to Shey
Follow the path along Phoksundo's western shore that leads north to Shey Gompa, the Crystal Monastery of Peter Matthiessen's The Snow Leopard. Walk the first section as a day hike to scan for blue sheep and predators, or continue on the full Upper Dolpo trek.
From Ringmo, a narrow trail cut into the cliffs runs along the western shore of Phoksundo, high above the water. This is the route north to Upper Dolpo and to Shey Gompa, the Crystal Monastery, founded in the 11th century and considered the spiritual heart of Upper Dolpo. It is the route Peter Matthiessen and George Schaller followed in 1973. The first section makes a superb day hike, with the lake below you.
The slopes around the lake are prime habitat for blue sheep, the main prey of the snow leopard. A study from 2019 to 2022 found 90 snow leopards in the park. At dawn, with binoculars and a patient guide, you can scan the cliffs for blue sheep, tahr and perhaps a predator. Sightings of snow leopards are rare, but the chance is real, and lammergeiers are common. Bring binoculars. Patience is everything.
Going beyond the lake into Upper Dolpo needs a separate restricted area permit (USD 500 for 10 days, then USD 50 per day, as we understand it) and a fully supported camping trek. The route to Shey crosses the Kang La pass at over 5,300 m. Every twelve years, in the year of the Dragon, Shey hosts a great festival; the last was in 2024. Check current status before you travel.
Good for
Questions
Can I see a snow leopard at Phoksundo?
It is possible but rare. Shey Phoksundo National Park has one of Nepal's healthiest snow leopard populations, with 90 counted in a 2019–2022 study. The best chance is in late autumn and winter, scanning cliffs at dawn with an experienced guide. Even Peter Matthiessen, who spent two months here, never saw one.
How do I get to Shey Gompa from Phoksundo?
From Ringmo, follow the western shore trail north, then cross the Kang La pass, at over 5,300 m, to reach Shey Gompa in about 3–4 days. You need an Upper Dolpo restricted area permit, a licensed guide and a fully supported camping crew. The trail along the lake's cliffs is narrow and exposed in places.
What is the Upper Dolpo permit fee?
As we understand it, Upper Dolpo requires a restricted area permit of USD 500 per person for the first 10 days, then USD 50 per day, issued through a registered agency for at least two trekkers with a licensed guide. You also need the national park permit. Fees have been under review; check current status before you travel.
Also in Shey Phoksundo
More ways to spend the day
NatureLakeshore walk from Ringmo
A gentle morning walk from Ringmo along the shore of Phoksundo, past chortens and prayer walls, to the Bon gompa …
SpiritualRingmo's Bon village and gompas
Spend an afternoon in Ringmo, the Bon village on the landslide dam at the foot of Phoksundo, visiting its gompa, …
TrekkingTrek in from Juphal past the 167 m waterfall
The classic approach to Phoksundo: three days from Juphal airport up the Thuli Bheri and Suligad valleys, through pine forest …