Trek in from Juphal past the 167 m waterfall

From Juphal (2,499 m) we walk down to Dunai, the small district headquarters on the Thuli Bheri, then turn north up the Suligad valley into Shey Phoksundo National Park. The first two days follow the river through pine and walnut forest and narrow gorges, staying in simple lodges or camps at Chhepka and Rechi. The trail is well made but has many short climbs and descents. Porters or mules carry the main luggage.

On day three the valley opens and the trail climbs steeply. Near Rechi, the Amchi Hospital is a clinic of traditional Tibetan medicine, where amchi treat local people with herbal remedies. Above it the trail climbs to a viewpoint opposite the great waterfall, where the lake's outflow drops 167 m over the landslide dam. The spray from the falls drifts across the trail on windy days, and the noise fills the gorge. Rest here before the final climb, which is steep but short.

The last climb brings you onto the ridge above Ringmo, and Phoksundo appears below, turquoise against grey cliffs. It is one of the great arrivals in the Himalaya. In all, you gain about 1,100 m over three days, a good pace for acclimatisation. Carry rain gear in the monsoon months, as the lower valleys get more rain than the trans-Himalaya beyond. Take your time on the final climb. It is worth every step.