Asoj 2083 BSअसोज २०८३· Nepal runs on its own calendar

Mustang & Dolpo · old town

Lo Manthang

लोमान्थाङ Lo Monthang (Lo-ke)

Lo Manthang is the walled capital of the old kingdom of Lo, at about 3,840 m near the Tibetan border. Founded by Ame Pal around 1380, it keeps its mud-brick walls, single gate, five-storey palace and 15th-century gompas with restored murals. It is the goal of every Upper Mustang trek and the home of the Tiji festival.

  • Stay 2–3 nights
  • Best Apr – May · Sep – Oct
  • लेकLekh
Lo Manthang
Photo: Nirojsedhai · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Lo Manthang

Altitude3,840 m43.4% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltLekhलेक · High hills: pasture, pine, the last fields
Each breath62%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils86.9 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-15.9 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 3,840 m; real days vary with weather.

From the ridge above, Lo Manthang looks like a city drawn on a plain: a rectangle of high, pale walls with corner towers, packed inside with flat-roofed houses, red-painted gompas and the tall palace of the former kings, surrounded by green or golden fields and a scattering of hamlets. Beyond it, bare hills roll north towards Tibet, about 20 km away. Walk down through the fields to the city's single gate and you enter a place that has changed little in shape since the 15th century.

Inside the walls, narrow lanes run between houses of mud brick and stone, opening onto small squares where women spin wool, children play and horses wait to be loaded. The palace square, in front of the five-storey royal palace, is the heart of the city and the stage for the Tiji festival every May. Around it stand the great gompas: Thubchen with its huge red assembly hall, Jampa with its towering image of Maitreya, Chhoede, the main monastery, and Choprang, the new gompa.

Lo Manthang is not a museum. About 1,400 people lived in the wider rural municipality at the 2021 census, and the city has new guesthouses, shops selling Chinese goods brought over the border, and jeeps parked outside the walls. But the scale and the old buildings are intact. We recommend at least two nights here, three if you can, to see the gompas without hurry, ride to the caves at Chhoser and walk the walls at dawn.

Why go

The walled city

Walk the lanes inside Lo Manthang's walls, from the single gate to the palace square, past houses of mud brick and stone, prayer wheels and small courtyards. At dawn, follow the path around the outside of the walls for the light on the corner towers.

Thubchen gompa

The huge red assembly hall built in the late 15th century, with tall wooden pillars and walls covered in murals restored by conservators working with local Loba artisans. One of the finest interiors in the Himalaya. Bring a torch and time.

Jampa Lhakhang

The oldest of the city's major temples, built in the early 15th century and dedicated to Jampa, the Maitreya Buddha. Its tall clay image of Maitreya and painted mandalas on the walls are the reason many visitors come to Lo Manthang.

The royal palace

The nine-cornered, five-storey palace built around 1400 dominates the main square. It was home to the kings of Lo until 2008. Access inside is limited and changes over time; even from outside, it shows the scale of the old kingdom.

Chhoede gompa and Tiji

Chhoede is the main working monastery of the city, whose monks perform the masked dances of Tiji in the palace square each May. Outside festival time you may see young monks at lessons in its courtyard. Ask before photographing them.

Ride to Namgyal and Tingkhar

Hire a Mustang horse for a morning ride over the hills west of the city to Namgyal gompa on its ridge and the village of Tingkhar beyond, with views back over the walls. A gentle ride that suits beginners with a local handler.

१The story of Lo Manthang

Ame Pal's city and the last king of Lo

Lo Manthang was founded in about 1380 by Ame Pal, a warrior who made Lo an independent Buddhist kingdom, closely tied to Tibet by language and religion. He oversaw the building of the city wall and many of the structures that still stand. Lo's position on the trade route between the Tibetan plateau and the Kali Gandaki brought it wealth, and from the 15th to the 17th century it controlled much of the trade in salt, wool and grain between the Himalaya and the south. The great gompas of the city were built in this period of prosperity.

At the end of the 18th century Lo was annexed by the expanding kingdom of Nepal and became a dependency in 1795, but it kept its own hereditary rulers, known locally as gyalpo and in Nepali as raja. They lived in the palace, presided over festivals and settled disputes. Upper Mustang remained closed to outsiders until 1992, which helped preserve its Tibetan culture, language and architecture into modern times. Lo also supported Tibet and the Qing empire against Nepal during the Sino-Nepalese War of the late 18th century, a reminder of how close its ties to the north remained.

On 7 October 2008, after Nepal became a federal republic, the government ended the kingdom of Lo. The last king, Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, who had reigned since 1964 and was 25th in a line traced back to Ame Pal, lost his title, though many residents continued to treat him as their king until his death in December 2016. His nephew, Jigme Singhe Palbar Bista, still attends ceremonies in the palace. Today Lo Manthang is the centre of Lomanthang rural municipality, a place of farmers, monks, traders and lodge-keepers.

२The legend
As it is told · लोमान्थाङ

Tiji, Lo Manthang's great May festival, retells a legend of the deity Dorje Jono. A demon born in Lo, the story goes, brought drought and suffering to the land, and Dorje Jono, a form of the Buddha's power, took on the task of defeating him. Over three days in the palace square, masked monks of Chhoede gompa dance the tale, until the demon is destroyed and Lo is purified for the year ahead. Many villagers still see the festival as protecting their crops and families.

३The people

Who lives here

Lo Manthang's people are Loba, who speak Lo-ke, a Tibetan dialect, and most follow the Sakya school of Tibetan Buddhism. At the 2011 census nearly nine in ten people in the municipality identified as Lhopa. Families farm barley, buckwheat and mustard, keep horses, yaks and goats, trade across the Tibetan border and run lodges. In winter many move south to Pokhara or Kathmandu, returning before spring planting.

Local name: Lo Monthang (Lo-ke)

४Words you will hear
Tibetan
རྒྱལ་པོ
gyalpo

king; the title of the rulers of Lo until 2008

Tibetan
ལྷ་ཁང
lhakhang

temple, literally 'god house'; as in Jampa Lhakhang

Tibetan
རྩམ་པ
tsampa

roasted barley flour, the staple food of Lo

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Tsampa

Tsampa is roasted barley flour mixed with butter tea and kneaded by hand into small balls, or stirred into porridge. It is the staple of Lo, carried by herders and eaten at home every day. Ask your lodge in Lo Manthang to make it the local way at breakfast.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Lo Manthang's royal palace is a nine-cornered, five-storey building put up around 1400. The last king of Lo, Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, was born in it in 1930 and was the 25th in a direct line of rulers dating back to 1380.

Wikipedia: Lomanthang Rural Municipality; Wikipedia: Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista

In 2007 a series of at least twelve caves decorated with Buddhist paintings, dating to around the 13th century and showing Newar influence, were found in cliffs near Lo Manthang at about 4,300 m.

Wikipedia: Lomanthang Rural Municipality

Lo Manthang is about 20 km by road from the Korala border crossing into Tibet. The Kaligandaki Corridor road now links the city with Pokhara in around a day of driving, though much of it was still unpaved in 2025.

Wikipedia: Lomanthang Rural Municipality

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Lo Manthang

Road

Jeeps run from Jomsom to Lo Manthang in about 6–7 hours on a rough, dusty road via Kagbeni, Chele, Syangboche, Ghami and Tsarang. Pokhara–Lo Manthang is possible in one very long day. Landslides and river crossings can close the road; check current status before you travel.

On foot

The classic trek from Kagbeni takes 4–5 days via Chele, Samar or Syangboche, Ghami and Tsarang, at 3,000–4,000 m, with passes up to about 4,000 m. Many trekkers walk one way and drive the other.

Air

The nearest airport is Jomsom, about 80 km south, with early-morning flights from Pokhara. There is no airport in Upper Mustang; helicopter charters land at Lo Manthang for those with limited time, at high cost.

Where to stay

Lo Manthang has the widest choice of lodges in Upper Mustang. Most are family-run guesthouses inside or just outside the walls, with heated dining rooms, solar hot water and rooms with attached bathrooms in the better ones. A few newer lodges built in traditional style offer more comfort. Expect simple rooms and cold nights; bring a four-season sleeping bag. Book well ahead for Tiji in May, when every bed in the city is taken. We choose lodges close to the gate so evening and dawn walks are easy.

Local tips

  • Stay at least two nights; arriving tired at 3,840 m and leaving the next morning wastes the effort of getting here.
  • Visit Thubchen and Jampa gompas with a guide who can find the caretakers; both are often kept locked.
  • Bring a strong torch; the murals in Thubchen and Jampa are in deep shade.
  • Book lodges months ahead if you plan to see Tiji in May.
  • Respect the palace and gompas: ask before photographing monks, residents or interiors, and never use flash on murals.

On the map

Lo Manthang and what is near it

Map of Lo Manthang, Tsarang, Chhoser, GhamiIndiaChinaNepalGandakiLo Manthang1Lo ManthangTsarang2TsarangChhoser3ChhoserGhami4Ghami50 kmN
  1. 1Lo Manthang
  2. 2Tsarang
  3. 3Chhoser
  4. 4Ghami
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Lo Manthang: what travellers ask

How do I get to Lo Manthang?

Fly from Pokhara to Jomsom (about 20 minutes), then drive about 6–7 hours by jeep, or trek 4–5 days from Kagbeni via Chele, Syangboche, Ghami and Tsarang. Pokhara to Lo Manthang by road is possible in one long day. You need an Upper Mustang restricted area permit and a licensed guide.

How much is the Upper Mustang permit?

Since a November 2025 government decision, foreigners are reported to pay USD 50 per person per day for the Upper Mustang restricted area permit, replacing the old USD 500 for the first 10 days. You also need an ACAP permit. The permit is issued through a registered agency, for at least two people with a licensed guide. Check current status before you travel.

What is the altitude of Lo Manthang?

Lo Manthang lies at about 3,840 m. That is high enough for altitude sickness if you arrive quickly by jeep from Jomsom (2,700 m). Trekkers who walk up over 4–5 days usually adjust well. Rest on arrival, drink plenty of water and avoid alcohol for the first night.

Is there still a king in Lo Manthang?

No. The kingdom of Lo was formally ended on 7 October 2008, when Nepal became a republic. The last king, Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, died in December 2016. His nephew, Jigme Singhe Palbar Bista, still takes part in ceremonies at the palace, but holds no formal title. Many residents still respect the family.

When is the best time to visit Lo Manthang?

April to June and September to October are best. May brings the Tiji festival, the highlight of the year. Lo Manthang lies in the rain shadow, so July and August are mostly dry, though roads from the south can be cut. Winter is very cold and many residents move south.

How many days do I need for Upper Mustang?

With a jeep both ways from Jomsom, allow at least 7–8 days from Pokhara, including two nights in Lo Manthang. A trek in one direction and a drive back takes 10–12 days; trekking both ways takes 14–16 days. Add spare days for flights. Under the daily permit system, longer trips cost more in permit fees.

Can I use a credit card or ATM in Lo Manthang?

Do not count on it. There are no reliable ATMs in Upper Mustang, and most lodges and shops take cash only, in Nepali rupees. Some places may accept digital payment through Nepali apps, which most visitors cannot use. Bring enough cash from Pokhara or Jomsom for lodges, food, donations and horse hire.

Is Lo Manthang safe for travellers?

Yes. Lo Manthang is a small, close-knit community and crime against visitors is very rare. The main risks are altitude, cold, wind and rough roads. Travel with a licensed guide, as required by the permit, keep warm, drink water, and take care on jeep journeys. Check road and weather conditions before you travel.

Can I cross into Tibet from Lo Manthang?

The Korala border crossing, about 20 km north of Lo Manthang, is used for trade between Nepal and Tibet, but it is not generally open to foreign tourists. Do not plan a crossing into Tibet here. Rules can change, so check current status before you travel, but expect to return south to Jomsom.

Plan with a local planner

Tell us your height, we will find the trail

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