Lo Manthang and Ghar Gompa loop

Kathmandu to Pokhara

Fly to Pokhara and meet your guide, who checks your gear and permit paperwork. Upper Mustang is sunny, dry and windy, with cold nights: a warm jacket, sun hat, buff and sunglasses matter more than rain gear. Afternoon by Phewa Lake and an early night before the dawn flight to Jomsom. If you arrive early, walk along the lakeshore or take a boat to the Tal Barahi temple on its island. We collect passport copies for the permit if they have not already been sent.

The story of Pokhara →

Fly to Jomsom, walk to Kagbeni

We land in Jomsom before the wind and walk north along the Kali Gandaki riverbed to Kagbeni, a fortified village at the meeting of the Jhong and Kali Gandaki rivers. In the afternoon, explore its tunnel-like lanes and Kag Chode monastery, and see the clay guardian figures that protect the village from harm. A night at 2,810 m helps you adjust before the climb. Dinner is at the lodge, often dal bhat with local greens, and the evening is quiet: Kagbeni goes to bed early, and so should you.

The story of Kagbeni →

Kagbeni to Chele

Permits are checked at the edge of Kagbeni and we enter Upper Mustang. The trail runs through Tangbe's whitewashed lanes and Chhusang's orchards, below cliffs full of cave openings, then crosses the Kali Gandaki and climbs to Chele. Start early; the wind picks up around midday and blows hard up the valley until evening. Chele is a small Gurung and Loba village on a ledge above the gorge, with a few family lodges and wide views back down the valley.

Chele to Syangboche

The hardest climb of the trek. We cross two passes above 3,600 m with views back to Nilgiri and the Annapurnas, lunch at Samar, and continue over rolling side valleys to Syangboche. Walk slowly and drink often. Your guide checks your oxygen levels in the evening and talks through how you feel. The village of Samar, with its poplars and stone walls, is a pleasant place to rest at lunch before the afternoon section.

Syangboche to Ghami

Over Yamda La and Nyi La, the highest point of the route at about 4,010 m, then down to Ghami, a large village of whitewashed houses, poplars and barley fields. In the afternoon walk along Ghami's long mani wall, one of the longest in Nepal, keeping it on your right as local Buddhists do. Dinner tonight is in one of Ghami's family lodges, where the stove sits in the middle of the dining room and the conversation turns to tomorrow's quieter route.

The story of Ghami →

Ghami to Dhakmar

A short day that turns off the main trail. We cross the Ghami Khola and walk up a side valley to Dhakmar, a small village under tall cliffs of deep red rock, pocked with caves. Local legend says the red is the blood of a demon killed by Guru Rinpoche. The afternoon is free to explore the village and photograph the cliffs as the light turns them crimson before sunset. Few trekkers stay overnight in Dhakmar, so the evening is quiet and personal, usually spent around the family stove.

Over the ridge to Ghar Gompa and Lo

We climb out of Dhakmar onto a high plateau and cross to Ghar Gompa, also known as Lo Gekar, a small monastery that tradition says Guru Rinpoche founded in the 8th century. Inside are painted stone tablets and murals; the caretaker opens it for visitors. Then we climb over a final ridge and see Lo Manthang below, walled and compact on its plain, and enter by the city's single gate.

The story of Lo Manthang →

A day inside Lo Manthang

We visit Jampa Lhakhang, with its large clay Maitreya Buddha and painted mandalas, and Thubchen, a tall 15th-century assembly hall whose murals were restored with the help of local artists. Chode monastery is the active one, where novice monks study. In the afternoon, choose between a pony ride to the hills north of town, a visit to a local home for butter tea, or rest. Evening prayers at Chode are open to respectful visitors; sit at the back and listen.

The story of Lo Manthang →

Lo Manthang to Tsarang over Lo La

We leave Lo Manthang on the main trail, climb gently to Lo La at about 3,950 m for a last look back at the walled city, then descend across open plateau to Tsarang. The village's old fortress-palace and large red Sakya monastery stand on the edge of a gorge. Visit the monastery in the afternoon if the monks allow. Tsarang is quieter than Lo Manthang, and the evening walk around the edge of the village, above the gorge, is one of the most peaceful hours of the trek.

The story of Tsarang →

Jeep from Tsarang to Jomsom

A private jeep takes us south on the Upper Mustang road through Ghami, Syangboche, Chele and Chhusang to Kagbeni and Jomsom. It is a rough, dusty ride with long views and a lunch stop on the way. In Jomsom, hot showers and a celebration dinner with the team. The jeep also lets you stop at places you passed on foot, for a last look at Ghami's mani wall and the cliffs above Chhusang. Jomsom has a bank, shops and good lodges.

The story of Jomsom →

Fly back to Pokhara

The morning flight returns you to Pokhara. The rest of the day is free. If the Jomsom flight is cancelled by wind or cloud, today becomes our buffer: we wait for the next morning or drive out along the Kali Gandaki road, 8 to 10 hours by jeep. Phewa Lake is the place to spend the afternoon: a boat, a massage, or a long lunch overlooking the water. After two weeks in dry air, the green of Pokhara is a pleasure in itself.

The story of Pokhara →

Pokhara to Kathmandu

Fly to Kathmandu, where the trip ends. Keep at least four hours between landing and any international departure, or better, a spare night. We are happy to arrange hotels and a day of sightseeing in Patan or Bhaktapur. If you have time to spare, a night in Bhaktapur or Patan, among Newar temples and courtyards, is a fine way to round off a journey through the old Kingdom of Lo. We book onward hotels and transfers on request.

The story of Kathmandu →