Watch Tiji's masked dances in the palace square

Tiji is held over three days in the third month of the Tibetan calendar, usually in May. The dates are fixed each year by the lamas of Chhoede gompa. People from all over Upper Mustang come to Lo Manthang in their best clothes, and the palace square fills with families, monks, traders and visitors. Long horns and drums announce each day's dances, and every rooftop around the square fills with spectators.

The masked dances, performed by Chhoede's monks, tell the legend of Dorje Jono, who defeats a demon that has brought drought and suffering to Lo. Each day has its own dances, building to the destruction of the demon's effigy on the last day, when the land is purified for the year. The dances are long, slow and hypnotic, with moments of drama, and people watch for hours from the square and the rooftops.

To see Tiji, plan months ahead. Lodges fill up and the restricted area permit should be arranged early. Arrive in Lo Manthang a day or two before to acclimatise. Find a spot in the square early each morning, bring a cushion, sun hat and warm layers, and keep your camera discreet. Never step into the dance area, and follow the stewards' instructions. Patience is rewarded; the best moments often come late in the day.