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Lumbini & the Buddha's Country · viewpoint

Resunga

रेसुङ्गा

Resunga is a forested hill rising to about 2,347 m above Tamghas, the headquarters of Gulmi district. It is sacred to Hindus as the place where the sage Rishyashringa is said to have meditated, and its top gives wide views of the Himalaya. The hike up from Tamghas takes 3–4 hours.

  • Stay 1–2 nights
  • Best Mar – Apr · Oct – Nov
  • पहाडPahad
Resunga
Photo: Deelip Rokks · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Resunga

Altitude2,347 m26.5% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath75%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils92.0 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-6.2 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 2,347 m; real days vary with weather.

From Tamghas, Resunga is the dark, forested hill that fills the sky to the north-east. Its slopes run from deep valleys at about 800 m to a summit ridge at about 2,347 m, covered in oak, rhododendron and pine. On top are a temple, prayer flags and, on a clear morning, a line of snow peaks from Dhaulagiri to the Annapurnas.

For the people of Gulmi, Resunga is sacred. Legend ties it to the sage Rishyashringa, the horned sage of the Ramayana, and pilgrims climb it on festival days. The forest has been protected for generations because of that holiness.

Gulmi sees few foreign visitors, which is a reason to come. Combine Resunga with Ridi, about 2 hours away on the road from Tansen, and with Gulmi's coffee farms, the oldest in Nepal.

Why go

The summit ridge

At about 2,347 m, the top of Resunga has a temple, prayer flags and open ground among the trees. On clear mornings the view runs north to Dhaulagiri and the Annapurna range and south over the folded hills of Gulmi and Arghakhanchi.

The sacred forest

Resunga's slopes are covered in oak, pine and rhododendron, protected by long-standing religious respect. The climb passes through shady, quiet forest with birdsong and, in spring, red rhododendron flowers.

The legend of the horned sage

Resunga is linked with Rishyashringa, the sage of the Ramayana who led the sacrifice for King Dasharatha's sons. Pilgrims climb to honour him, especially on festival days, and the summit temple is the focus.

Tamghas bazaar

Gulmi's district headquarters sits on a saddle below the hill, with a busy bazaar, government offices and tea shops. It is the base for the climb and for visits to the district's coffee and orange farms.

Nepal's first coffee country

Gulmi is where coffee was first grown in Nepal, in 1938. Farms in the district still grow arabica under shade trees, and in season you can see picking, pulping and drying.

१The story of Resunga

A sacred hill in the land of the Magars

Gulmi was one of the small hill kingdoms of western Nepal before unification, part of the old Baise and Chaubise world of rival principalities, and the hills around Resunga have long been home to Magar communities. Tamghas, below the hill, grew as the district headquarters, a bazaar town on a saddle with offices, schools and a hospital serving the surrounding villages.

Resunga's importance has always been religious. Its name is linked by local tradition with Rishyashringa, a sage of the Treta age in Hindu belief, who is said to have meditated in its forests. The hill became a place of pilgrimage and the forest a protected, sacred grove. In 2000 a team of French and Nepali scholars published a study of the region's society and religion titled Resunga: The Mountain of the Horned Sage.

In 2014 the government merged Tamghas with three neighbouring village committees, Arkhale, Dubichaur and Simichaur, into a new municipality and named it after the hill. Today a road network reaches much of Gulmi, but the climb to Resunga's summit is still made on foot by most pilgrims.

२The legend
As it is told · रेसुङ्गा

Local tradition says that in the Treta age the sage Rishyashringa, the horned sage of Hindu legend, chose Resunga's forest for his meditation, and that the hill's name comes from his. In the Ramayana, Rishyashringa is the sage who led the sacrifice that brought sons to King Dasharatha, among them Rama. Pilgrims honour him at the summit temple, and many believe prayers made on Resunga are especially strong.

३The people

Who lives here

Gulmi's hills are home to Magar communities, the district's oldest people, together with Brahmin, Chhetri, Thakuri and Dalit families. Most farm maize, millet, rice and vegetables on terraces, and Gulmi is known for coffee and oranges. A large share of young men work abroad, in the Gulf, Malaysia or in Gurkha regiments, and remittances have built much of Tamghas's new housing.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
ऋषि
rishi

Sage or seer; Resunga is the hill of the horned rishi

Nepali
लालीगुराँस
lali gurans

Red rhododendron, Nepal's national flower, blooming on Resunga in spring

Nepali
उकालो
ukalo

Uphill climb; you will hear it often on the way up

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Gulmi coffee

Hill-grown arabica from the farms of Gulmi, where Nepal's first coffee was planted in 1938. Beans are pulped, sun-dried and roasted in small batches. Cafes and cooperative shops in Tamghas sell it by the cup and by the packet.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Coffee was first planted in Nepal in Gulmi district in 1938, when Hira Giri, a hermit returning from Burma, brought seeds to Aanpchaur. Gulmi still grows some of Nepal's best-known hill coffee.

National Tea and Coffee Development Board, Nepal

Resunga Municipality was created on 18 May 2014 by merging the village committees of Arkhale, Dubichaur, Simichaur and Tamghas, and takes its name from the sacred hill.

Wikipedia: Resunga Municipality

The scholarly volume Resunga: The Mountain of the Horned Sage, edited by Philippe Ramirez and published by Himal Books in 2000, studies religion, society and the Magar communities of Gulmi and Arghakhanchi.

Nepali Times review, 'The mountain of the horned sage'

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Resunga

Road

Tamghas is about 4 hours by road from Tansen via Ridi, and about 5–6 hours from Butwal. Local buses and jeeps run from Butwal and Tansen. Roads in Gulmi are winding and can be blocked by landslides in the monsoon, so check current status before you travel.

On foot

From Tamghas the climb to Resunga's summit takes about 3–4 hours on forest trails, with around 2–3 hours for the descent. Some roads reach higher on the hill, shortening the walk; ask locally about current access.

Where to stay

Tamghas has a small number of local hotels and guesthouses used by officials, traders and Nepali travellers, with simple rooms and dal bhat. There is no comfortable accommodation on the hill itself, so most visitors stay in Tamghas and climb at dawn. Travellers who prefer more comfort visit Ridi and the foot of the hill on a long day from Tansen, where Hotel Srinagar is the best-known base.

Local tips

  • Start the climb before dawn to reach the summit while the Himalaya is still clear.
  • Carry water, snacks and a warm layer; the summit is cool even when Tamghas is warm.
  • Respect the sacred forest: do not cut branches, pick plants or leave litter.
  • March and April bring rhododendron flowers; October and November bring the clearest mountain views.
  • Hire a local guide in Tamghas; trails branch in the forest and are not signposted.

On the map

Resunga and what is near it

Map of Resunga, Ridi, Tansen, SwargadwariIndiaChinaNepalGandakiResunga1ResungaRidi2RidiTansen3TansenSwargadwari4Swargadwari50 kmN
  1. 1Resunga
  2. 2Ridi
  3. 3Tansen
  4. 4Swargadwari
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Resunga: what travellers ask

Where is Resunga?

Resunga is a sacred, forested hill above Tamghas, the headquarters of Gulmi district in Lumbini Province. Its summit is at about 2,347 m. Tamghas is about 4 hours by road from Tansen via Ridi, and 5–6 hours from Butwal.

What is Resunga famous for?

Resunga is known as a sacred hill linked with the sage Rishyashringa, for its protected oak, pine and rhododendron forest, and for Himalayan views from the summit. It also gave its name to Resunga Municipality, which includes Tamghas.

How long does it take to climb Resunga?

From Tamghas the climb to the summit takes about 3–4 hours, and the descent 2–3 hours, making a full day of 6–7 hours with stops. Some roads now reach higher on the hill, which can shorten the walk; ask locally about current access.

What is the best time to visit Resunga?

October and November give the clearest Himalayan views. March and April bring rhododendrons in bloom. December to February is clear but cold at the summit, sometimes near freezing at dawn. The monsoon from June to September brings rain, leeches and cloud.

Where can I stay near Resunga?

Tamghas has simple local hotels and guesthouses with basic rooms and Nepali meals. There is no accommodation on the hill. Travellers wanting more comfort stay in Tansen, about 4 hours away, but then cannot easily make the dawn climb.

Do I need a permit to visit Resunga?

No trekking permit is needed for Resunga, as it lies outside Nepal's national parks and conservation areas. The forest is protected locally, so stay on trails and leave nothing behind. Check current status before you travel in case local rules change.

Who was Rishyashringa?

Rishyashringa, the horned sage, is a figure of Hindu legend who appears in the Ramayana and Mahabharata. In the Ramayana he leads the sacrifice that brings sons, including Rama, to King Dasharatha. Local tradition says he meditated on Resunga, and the hill's name is linked with his.

Is Resunga worth visiting for foreign travellers?

Yes, for those who enjoy walking, forests and places off the usual routes. Resunga offers a sacred forest, mountain views and a glimpse of hill life in Gulmi, which few foreign travellers see. Facilities are basic, so it suits flexible, self-reliant travellers.

Can I combine Resunga with Ridi?

Yes. Ridi lies on the road between Tansen and Tamghas, about 2 hours from each. A good plan is Tansen to Ridi for the morning, on to Tamghas for the night, then Resunga at dawn the next day, returning via Ridi or continuing west.

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