Asoj 2083 BSअसोज २०८३· Nepal runs on its own calendar

Lumbini & the Buddha's Country · pilgrimage site

Swargadwari

स्वर्गद्वारी

Swargadwari, 'the gateway to heaven', is a Hindu pilgrimage site on a forested ridge at about 2,100 m in Pyuthan district. Founded by the yogi Swami Hamsananda, it is known for its cows and a sacred yagya fire said to have burned continuously since 1895. It is a long road trip from Lumbini or Dang.

  • Stay 1–2 nights
  • Best Mar – Apr · Oct – Nov
  • पहाडPahad
Swargadwari
Photo: Niraj Subedi · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Swargadwari

Altitude2,100 m23.7% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath77%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils92.9 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-4.5 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 2,100 m; real days vary with weather.

Swargadwari stands on a high ridge in Pyuthan, in the far west of Lumbini Province, with forest falling away on every side and, on clear mornings, the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges on the northern horizon. Its name means the door to heaven.

The ashram was founded by a yogi known as Swami Hamsananda, who lived on this ridge herding and milking cows. In 1895, on the full moon of Baisakh, a sacred fire was lit in the yagya kunda, the fire altar, and pilgrims say it has never gone out. Hundreds of cows are still kept here, and devotees bring ghee, grain and fodder as offerings.

Few foreign travellers reach Swargadwari, but Nepali pilgrims come in large numbers, especially on full-moon days. It suits travellers with time, an interest in living Hindu practice and no need for comfort.

Why go

The yagya kunda

The fire altar at the centre of the ashram, where a sacred flame is said to have burned since the full moon of Baisakh in 1895. Pilgrims offer ghee and grain, and priests tend it day and night.

The cows of Swargadwari

Hundreds of cows live at the ashram, cared for as sacred animals in the tradition of Swami Hamsananda. Pilgrims bring fodder and offerings for them, and their milk and ghee feed the rituals.

Gaumukhi cave and spring

A cave where the founder is believed to have meditated, near a spring called Gaumukhi, the cow's mouth. It is a quiet place a short walk from the main temples.

Himalayan views

From the ridge at about 2,100 m, clear mornings show Dhaulagiri, the Annapurna range and Machhapuchhre far to the north-east, above the hills of Pyuthan and Rolpa.

Full-moon pilgrim days

On full-moon days, especially Baisakh Purnima in April or May, the ridge fills with pilgrims, chanting and offerings. It is the most intense and crowded time to visit.

१The story of Swargadwari

A yogi, his cows and a fire that never goes out

Swargadwari's modern history begins with one man. Narayan Gautam, a yogi from the western hills later known as Swami Hamsananda and as Guru Maharaj, came to this ridge in the late 19th century and spent most of his life here, meditating, herding and milking cows. In Hindu belief the cow is sacred, and his care for the herd became the heart of the place.

In 1895, on the full moon of Baisakh, he lit the fire of a Vedic yagya, a sacrificial rite, in an altar at the ashram. Priests and devotees have tended it ever since, feeding it with ghee and wood. Around the fire grew temples, rest houses and cattle sheds, and a pilgrimage that now draws visitors from across Nepal and India.

The ashram has had hard years. During and after the civil war of 1996 to 2006, donations of hay and straw fell so low that the cows were at risk of starving. Roads have since been built through Pyuthan, and the pilgrimage has grown again. The site is listed in Nepal's national inventory of cultural and historic heritage.

२The legend
As it is told · स्वर्गद्वारी

Swargadwari means the gateway to heaven, and local tradition says the five Pandava brothers of the Mahabharata stayed on this ridge. Some pilgrims say it was here that they rested on their final journey towards heaven. Devotees also tell of Swami Hamsananda meditating in the Gaumukhi cave, near a spring shaped like a cow's mouth, and believe that worship at Swargadwari opens the door to heaven for the faithful.

३The people

Who lives here

Pyuthan is a hill district of Magar, Chhetri, Brahmin and Dalit communities, many of whom farm maize, millet, wheat and rice on terraces and keep cows, goats and buffalo. Nepali is the common language, with Magar spoken in many villages. The ashram is run by priests and volunteers, and pilgrims come from Pyuthan, Rolpa, Dang and much further afield.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
यज्ञ
yagya

Vedic fire ritual; the yagya kunda is the sacred fire altar

Nepali
गाई
gai

Cow, honoured at Swargadwari as sacred

Nepali
पूर्णिमा
purnima

Full moon; the busiest pilgrimage days

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Khir

Rice cooked slowly in milk with sugar, cardamom and sometimes cashews or raisins, a dish of offerings and festivals across Nepal. In a place devoted to cows, milk dishes like khir and fresh curd are the natural food; ask at tea shops on the approach roads.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

The sacred fire in Swargadwari's yagya kunda was lit on a full moon of Baisakh in 1895, and priests and pilgrims say it has burned without going out ever since.

The Kathmandu Post, 'Gateway to heaven and beyond', January 2020

After Nepal's civil war of 1996–2006, donations of straw and hay to Swargadwari fell so low that the ashram's resident cattle were in danger of starving.

Wikipedia: Swargadwari

Swargadwari is listed in Nepal's national inventory of cultural and historic heritage sites and is counted among the country's most important Hindu pilgrimages.

Wikipedia: Swargadwari

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Swargadwari

Road

From the East-West Highway, roads climb to Swargadwari via Bhalubang and Bhingri in Pyuthan, or via Ghorahi and Holeri from Dang; each is roughly half a day's drive. From Lumbini allow 8–9 hours in total. Hill roads are rough in places and can close in the monsoon, so check current status before you travel.

On foot

Depending on current road access, the final approach may involve a walk of an hour or more on a steep trail. Pilgrims have long walked up from the valleys below; ask locally about the current state of the road.

Where to stay

The ashram has pilgrim rest houses that can host several hundred people, with very simple rooms and shared facilities; a donation is expected. Small lodges and tea houses on the approach roads offer basic beds and dal bhat. There are no hotels of the kind found in Lumbini or Tansen, so come prepared for simple conditions, bring a sleeping bag liner, and expect cold nights from November to February.

Local tips

  • Allow at least one night at or near the ashram; the drive is too long for a comfortable day trip.
  • Bring warm clothes: the ridge at about 2,100 m drops close to freezing on winter nights.
  • Leather items are not welcome near the yagya kunda and temples; leave belts and leather bags in the car.
  • Visit on a non-festival day for quiet, or on Baisakh Purnima for the full crowd; book rest houses ahead for festivals.
  • Carry cash; there are no ATMs at the ashram and card payment is not possible.

On the map

Swargadwari and what is near it

Map of Swargadwari, Resunga, RidiIndiaChinaNepalGandakiSwargadwari1SwargadwariResunga2ResungaRidi3Ridi50 kmN
  1. 1Swargadwari
  2. 2Resunga
  3. 3Ridi
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Swargadwari: what travellers ask

Where is Swargadwari?

Swargadwari is on a forested ridge at about 2,100 m in Pyuthan district, in the west of Lumbini Province. Roads climb to it from the East-West Highway via Bhalubang and Bhingri, or from Ghorahi in Dang. From Lumbini the trip takes about 8–9 hours by road.

What does Swargadwari mean?

Swargadwari means the gateway or door to heaven, from the Nepali and Sanskrit words swarga, heaven, and dwar, door. Local tradition links the name with the Pandava brothers of the Mahabharata, said to have stayed here, and with the belief that worship here opens heaven's door.

Who founded Swargadwari?

The ashram was founded by Narayan Gautam, a yogi known as Swami Hamsananda or Guru Maharaj, who lived on the ridge from the late 19th century, herding and milking cows. He lit the sacred yagya fire in 1895 that devotees say still burns.

When is the best time to visit Swargadwari?

October to November and March to April are best, with clear views and mild days. Baisakh Purnima, the full moon of April or May, is the busiest pilgrimage day. Winter nights are close to freezing, and the monsoon from June to September brings rain and road problems.

Where can I stay at Swargadwari?

The ashram runs pilgrim rest houses with very simple rooms and shared facilities, able to host several hundred people. A donation is expected. Small lodges on the approach roads offer basic rooms. Bring warm layers and a sleeping bag liner, and book ahead for festival days.

How do I get to Swargadwari from Lumbini?

Drive west on the East-West Highway via Butwal to Bhalubang, then north into Pyuthan via Bhingri, about 8–9 hours in total. A private jeep with an experienced driver is the most practical option. Check road conditions before you travel, especially after the monsoon.

Is Swargadwari suitable for foreign tourists?

Yes, for travellers interested in living Hindu pilgrimage who are comfortable with long drives and basic facilities. There are few foreigners, little English signage and simple food and beds. Visiting with a guide who speaks Nepali makes the experience much richer.

What is the yagya at Swargadwari?

A yagya is a Vedic fire ritual in which offerings such as ghee and grain are given to the sacred fire with chanting. At Swargadwari a yagya fire lit on the full moon of Baisakh in 1895 has, devotees say, been tended continuously ever since.

Can I visit Swargadwari as a day trip?

It is possible from Dang or Pyuthan towns, but not comfortably from Lumbini or Tansen, which are 8 hours or more away. We recommend at least one night at or near the ashram, which also lets you see the sunrise and the morning worship.

Plan with a local planner

Tell us your height, we will find the trail

Easy hills or a 5,000 m pass, a week or a month: three short questions and a planner sends a first plan, with the sleeping height of every night and an itemised price.

  1. १Tell us where, when and how high you want to go
  2. २Get a first plan and an itemised price within one working day
  3. ३Change anything until it fits. Pay a deposit only when you book
Plan my Nepal trip