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Lumbini & the Buddha's Country · pilgrimage site

Ridi

रिडी Ruru Kshetra (Sanskrit, sacred name)

Ridi, also called Ruru Kshetra, is a Hindu temple town at the confluence of the Ridi Khola and the Kali Gandaki, where Gulmi, Palpa and Syangja districts meet. It is known for the Rishikesh temple, shaligram stones on the riverbank, an old bazaar and a three-day bathing fair at Maghe Sankranti in mid-January.

  • Stay 0–1 nights
  • Best Oct – Mar
  • चुरेChure and Inner Terai
Ridi
Photo: Acharya Bipin · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Ridi

Altitude500 m5.7% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltChure and Inner Teraiचुरे · The first hills and the river valleys behind them
Each breath94%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils98.3 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu+5.8 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 500 m; real days vary with weather.

Ridi sits low in a fold of the hills, where the Ridi Khola runs into the Kali Gandaki. A short line of old brick and timber houses, the bazaar, faces the river, and above it stands the Rishikesh temple, dedicated to Vishnu. Pilgrims come to bathe, to worship and, for many families of the western hills, to cremate their dead on the ghats.

Hindus count Ruru Kshetra among the most sacred places in Nepal. The Kali Gandaki here carries shaligram, black fossil stones worshipped as forms of Vishnu, and pilgrims search the shingle for them. The Rishikesh temple complex has been on UNESCO's tentative World Heritage list since 2008.

Ridi is quiet most of the year and packed for three days in mid-January, when Maghe Sankranti brings a great fair and dawn bathing. Visit as a day trip from Tansen or as a stop on the road west to Tamghas and Resunga.

Why go

Rishikesh temple

The main temple of Ruru Kshetra, dedicated to Vishnu as Rishikesh, founded by tradition by King Mukunda Sen. Pilgrims queue here after bathing, and the temple complex is on UNESCO's tentative World Heritage list.

The confluence ghats

Stone steps and landings where the Ridi Khola meets the Kali Gandaki. Pilgrims bathe here at dawn, priests perform rites for the dead, and cremations take place on the bank.

Shaligram on the shingle

Black, rounded stones carried down by the Kali Gandaki, many holding fossil ammonite spirals. They are worshipped as forms of Vishnu, and pilgrims search the riverbank for them.

The old bazaar

A short street of old brick and timber houses along the river, with carved windows, small shrines and shops selling puja goods, brass and sweets. It keeps much of the feel of a medieval pilgrim market.

Maghe Sankranti mela

For three days in mid-January Ridi fills with pilgrims, traders and families. Dawn bathing, temple queues, food stalls and bargaining go on from before sunrise until late.

१The story of Ridi

The temple a king found in the river

Ridi's story is tied to Palpa's Sen kings. Tradition says that King Mukunda Sen, bathing in the Kali Gandaki at the confluence, found an image of Vishnu in the water. He set it up in a temple on the bank and named the god Rishikesh, a name of Vishnu as lord of the senses. Palpa's rulers kept the place as a royal pilgrimage, and the bazaar grew around the temple.

Over the centuries Ridi became one of the great religious centres of the western hills. Its ghats became a favoured place for cremation, because dying or being cremated by the Kali Gandaki is believed to bring liberation. Female mendicants known as bhaktini ama have long lived and worshipped here. The old bazaar still keeps much of its medieval character.

In 2008 Nepal added the Rishikesh complex of Ruru Kshetra to UNESCO's tentative list. Today a road links Ridi with Tansen and Tamghas, and the old pilgrim trails are less used, but at Maghe Sankranti large crowds still come on foot, by bus and by jeep.

२The legend
As it is told · रिडी

Local legend says a devout girl named Ruru performed long penance at this confluence, and Vishnu, pleased with her devotion, appeared to her here; the place took her name as Ruru Kshetra. Devotees also say the image of Rishikesh in the temple seems to change through the day, looking like a child in the morning, a young man at midday and an old man in the evening.

३The people

Who lives here

Ridi's bazaar families are mostly Newar and Brahmin traders and priests, while the surrounding hills are home to Magar villages and Brahmin, Chhetri and Dalit communities. Most families farm maize, millet and rice on terraces and keep goats and buffalo. During the January fair, traders arrive from across Gulmi, Palpa, Syangja, Arghakhanchi and Baglung to sell food, cloth and household goods.

Local name: Ruru Kshetra (Sanskrit, sacred name)

४Words you will hear
Nepali
शालिग्राम
shaligram

Black fossil stone from the Kali Gandaki, worshipped as Vishnu

Nepali
बेनी
beni

River confluence, a sacred place for bathing

Nepali
मेला
mela

Fair or festival gathering, like Ridi's January mela

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Chaku and tarul

Chaku is hard, dark molasses toffee made with ghee and sesame; tarul is yam, boiled and eaten with salt. Together with sesame laddu they are the foods of Maghe Sankranti. At Ridi's January fair, stalls along the bazaar sell them by the kilo.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Ridi lies at the meeting point of three districts, Gulmi, Palpa and Syangja, which is one reason it became a shared pilgrimage and market centre for the western hills.

Wikipedia: Ruru Kshetra

Ridi's Maghe Sankranti fair lasts three days, called Jethi, Maili and Kanchhi Sankranti, the eldest, middle and youngest. Devotees believe bathing in the Kali Gandaki on all three days and worshipping Rishikesh brings liberation.

Wikipedia: Ruru Kshetra

The Rishikesh complex of Ruru Kshetra was added to UNESCO's World Heritage tentative list on 30 January 2008, noted for its mix of medieval and Sen-period architecture and its living ritual traditions.

UNESCO World Heritage tentative list; Wikipedia: Rishikesh Complex of Ruru Kshetra

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Getting there

How to reach Ridi

Road

Ridi is about 2 hours by road from Tansen, on the route towards Tamghas in Gulmi. Local buses run from Tansen and Butwal, and more are added for the January fair. Roads can be blocked by landslides in the monsoon, so check current status before you travel.

Air

The nearest airport is Bhairahawa, about 4 hours away by road via Butwal and Tansen. Flights from Kathmandu take about 35 minutes.

Where to stay

Ridi has only simple lodges and pilgrim rest houses, which fill completely during the Maghe Sankranti fair. Most travellers visit on a day trip from Tansen, about 2 hours away, where Hotel Srinagar and family-run hotels in the old bazaar make a comfortable base. If you want to be at the ghats for the dawn bath during the fair, arrange a lodge in Ridi well in advance through a local contact.

Local tips

  • For the Maghe Sankranti fair, arrive the day before or leave Tansen very early; roads jam and parking fills by dawn.
  • Remove shoes and leather items before entering the Rishikesh temple, and ask before photographing inside.
  • Keep a respectful distance from cremations on the ghats, and never photograph mourners.
  • If you find a shaligram, ask a local priest about it; many pilgrims buy them from sellers rather than collecting.
  • Do not swim in the Kali Gandaki; the current is strong even where the water looks calm.

On the map

Ridi and what is near it

Map of Ridi, Tansen, Resunga, Rani MahalIndiaChinaNepalGandakiRidi1RidiTansen2TansenResunga3ResungaRani Mahal4Rani Mahal50 kmN
  1. 1Ridi
  2. 2Tansen
  3. 3Resunga
  4. 4Rani Mahal
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Ridi: what travellers ask

Where is Ridi?

Ridi, also called Ruru Kshetra, is at the confluence of the Ridi Khola and the Kali Gandaki, where Gulmi, Palpa and Syangja districts meet in Lumbini and Gandaki provinces. It is about 2 hours by road from Tansen, on the way towards Tamghas in Gulmi.

Why is Ridi sacred to Hindus?

Ridi is a confluence on the Kali Gandaki, one of Nepal's holiest rivers, and the site of the Rishikesh temple of Vishnu, founded by tradition by King Mukunda Sen. Bathing, worship and cremation here are believed to help the soul towards liberation. The river also carries shaligram stones.

What is the Rishikesh temple?

The Rishikesh temple is Ridi's main temple, dedicated to Vishnu as Rishikesh. Tradition says Mukunda Sen of Palpa found its image in the river while bathing. The temple complex was added to UNESCO's World Heritage tentative list in 2008 for its architecture and living traditions.

What is the best time to visit Ridi?

October to March is best for dry roads and comfortable weather, around 20–25 °C by day. Mid-January brings the three-day Maghe Sankranti fair, the most dramatic time to visit but also the most crowded. The monsoon from June to September can block roads.

How do I get to Ridi from Tansen?

By private car or jeep, Ridi is about 2 hours from Tansen. Local buses also run on the route, with extra services during the January fair. Most travellers go as a day trip and return to Tansen, or continue to Tamghas and Resunga.

Where can I stay in Ridi?

Ridi has simple lodges and pilgrim rest houses with basic rooms and shared facilities. They fill completely during Maghe Sankranti. Most visitors stay in Tansen, about 2 hours away, which has better hotels including Hotel Srinagar, and visit Ridi on a day trip.

Can I find shaligram stones at Ridi?

Shaligram are found on the Kali Gandaki banks at Ridi and are sold in the bazaar. Finding a fine one yourself takes patience and luck; the richest sources are further upstream. Nepal has rules on exporting fossils and cultural objects, so check current status before you travel with one.

Is Ridi a cremation site?

Yes. The ghats at Ridi are an important cremation place for families from the western hills, because cremation beside the Kali Gandaki is considered especially meritorious. Visitors are welcome to be present at a respectful distance but should not photograph mourners or the pyre.

Can I combine Ridi with Rani Mahal?

Both lie on the Kali Gandaki below Tansen, but on different roads, so combining them in one day makes for a long day of 9–10 hours of driving and visiting. We usually suggest a full day for each from Tansen, or Ridi on the way west to Resunga.

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