Spiritual · Ridi
Dawn bath at the Maghe Sankranti mela
Be at the Kali Gandaki ghats before sunrise during Ridi's three-day Maghe Sankranti fair, when thousands bathe in the cold river, queue for the Rishikesh temple and fill the bazaar with chaku, tarul and laddu.
Maghe Sankranti, on the first day of the month of Magh in mid-January, marks the sun's turn towards the north and the end of the coldest month. At Ridi it is the biggest event of the year: a three-day fair, with the days known as Jethi, Maili and Kanchhi Sankranti.
We reach the ghats before first light. Families step into the Kali Gandaki, splash water over their heads and pray towards the rising sun. Priests chant, bells ring at the temple and the queue for darshan winds up through the bazaar.
After sunrise the fair takes over: stalls of chaku, sesame laddu, yam and sweet potato, cloth and toys, and families eating together on the riverbank. It is crowded, loud and generous.
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Questions
When is the Ridi Maghe Sankranti fair?
The fair begins on Maghe Sankranti, the first day of the Nepali month of Magh, which usually falls on 14 or 15 January, and lasts three days. Exact dates follow the Nepali calendar and change slightly each year, so check current status before you travel.
Can tourists bathe in the river at Ridi?
You can join the ritual bath if you wish, entering only at the edge of the ghats where locals bathe, and never wading out. The water is very cold in January and the current strong. Most visitors watch from the steps, which is perfectly respectful. Bring a towel and warm clothes if you bathe.
How crowded is Ridi during Maghe Sankranti?
Very crowded. Thousands of pilgrims come over the three days, roads jam, lodges fill and the bazaar is packed. Keep valuables close, agree a meeting point with your group and expect delays on the roads. Arriving the day before or very early in the morning helps.
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