Asoj 2083 BSअसोज २०८३· Nepal runs on its own calendar

Kathmandu Valley · old town

Panauti

पनौती

Panauti is a small Newar town 32 km south-east of Kathmandu at the meeting of the Roshi and Punyamati rivers and, by belief, a third unseen river. Its Indreshwar Mahadev temple dates to 1294. Stay a night with a family in its community homestays to see Newar town life at a slow pace.

  • Stay 1–2 nights
  • Best Mar – Apr · Oct – Jan
  • पहाडPahad
Panauti
Photo: WrackAce · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Panauti

Altitude1,442 m16.3% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath84%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils95.1 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-0.3 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 1,442 m; real days vary with weather.

Panauti lies in a small valley of its own, beyond the eastern rim of the Kathmandu Valley in Kavrepalanchok district. Its old core sits on a tongue of land between two rivers, the Roshi and the Punyamati, and at their meeting point stands a group of riverside ghats and temples. Believers say a third river, the Rudrawati, joins them unseen, making this a triveni, a sacred three-river confluence.

The town was a stop on the old trade route between Tibet and India, and its brick lanes, carved windows and squares show that wealth. Its centrepiece is Indreshwar Mahadev, a three-roofed Shiva temple built in 1294 and often called one of the oldest surviving temples in Nepal. It survived the 2015 earthquake. Around it, the town is quiet, with far fewer visitors than Bhaktapur.

Panauti is a pioneer of community homestays in Nepal. Local women run a network that places guests in family homes in the old town, where you eat with the family, help in the kitchen and join daily life. It is one of the best ways in the valley to learn Newar cooking, festivals and manners from the people who live them.

Why go

Indreshwar Mahadev

A three-roofed Shiva temple of 1294 in the middle of the old town, with carved struts showing deities and couples. One of the oldest surviving temples in Nepal and still in daily use.

The triveni ghat

At the town's edge, where the rivers meet, stone ghats, small temples and rest houses line the bank. Pilgrims bathe on festival days, and cremations take place here. Quiet and beautiful at dawn.

Community homestays

Stay with a Newar family in the old town through the women-run homestay network. Eat home-cooked meals, help in the kitchen and join family rituals. Simple rooms, warm hosts.

Old town lanes

Brick houses with carved windows, small squares, water spouts and shrines, with few cars and far fewer visitors than Bhaktapur. Walk at dawn or dusk to see daily life.

Walks to Balthali and Namobuddha

From Panauti, trails climb through terraced farmland to the village of Balthali and to the Buddhist pilgrimage site of Namobuddha, with views of the Himalaya on clear days.

१The story of Panauti

A salt-road town at a holy confluence

Panauti grew as a market and pilgrimage town where rivers met and trade passed. Goods moving between the plains and Tibet, salt among them, came this way, and merchants paid for temples, rest houses and ghats. In 1294 the temple of Indreshwar Mahadev was built here, and its carved struts, with figures of deities and couples, are among the finest early woodwork in Nepal.

Under the Malla kings and later the Shah state, Panauti remained a Newar town with its own festivals, the most famous being the Makar Mela. Every twelve years, in the month of Magh, pilgrims come from across Nepal and India to bathe at the triveni ghat for a whole month. In other years, the confluence still draws crowds on Maghe Sankranti, the first day of Magh.

In 1996 the medieval town was placed on Nepal's tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage status. Indreshwar Mahadev survived the 2015 earthquake, though many houses did not. In recent decades, local women's groups set up a community homestay network, which has brought visitors into family homes and given the town a new income without changing its character.

२The legend
As it is told · पनौती

Local tradition links Panauti's great temple to Indra, king of the gods. Cursed for his misdeeds, Indra is said to have come to this confluence to do penance and worship Shiva, who appeared to him here, and so the temple is Indreshwar, Shiva as lord of Indra. A Newar legend of yomari, too, is often set in Panauti: a couple named Suchandra and Krita made the first yomari from a new harvest of rice.

३The people

Who lives here

Panauti's old core is Newar, with farming Jyapu families, merchant households and priests who serve the ghats. The surrounding hills are home to Tamang, Brahmin and Chhetri villages, and the town's market draws them in for trade. Many Newar women here run homestays, small shops and cooperatives. Nepal Bhasa is spoken in the old town, and Nepali is shared by all.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
त्रिवेणी
Triveni

Sacred confluence of three rivers

Nepal Bhasa
योमरि
Yomari

Steamed rice-flour dumpling filled with molasses and sesame

Nepali
मेला
Mela

Religious fair or gathering

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Yomari

A steamed dumpling of new-harvest rice flour shaped like a fig or fish, filled with chaku (molasses) and sesame, or sometimes sweet khuwa. Families make them for Yomari Punhi, the December full moon. Homestay hosts in Panauti often teach guests to shape them, which is harder than it looks.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Indreshwar Mahadev in Panauti was built in 1294 and is often described as one of the oldest surviving temples in Nepal. It survived the 2015 earthquake that badly damaged many houses in the town.

Wikipedia: Panauti

Panauti's Makar Mela is held only once every twelve years, for the whole month of Magh, when pilgrims bathe at the triveni ghat where the Punyamati, Roshi and the unseen Rudrawati rivers are said to meet.

Wikipedia: Makar Mela

Panauti's medieval town was placed on Nepal's tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage status in 1996, for its architecture and its place on the old trade route between Tibet and India.

Wikipedia: Panauti

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Panauti

Road

Panauti is about 32 km south-east of Kathmandu. Drive along the Araniko Highway to Banepa, then turn south for about 7 km; the trip takes about 1.5 hours by car, longer in traffic. Local buses run from Kathmandu's Ratnapark or Bhaktapur to Banepa, with connections to Panauti.

On foot

A popular day hike links Dhulikhel, Namobuddha and Panauti, about 6 to 7 hours in total over terraced hills and forest. From Panauti, Balthali village is about 2 to 3 hours' walk uphill.

Where to stay

Most visitors stay in Panauti's community homestays, arranged through the local women's network: simple, clean rooms in family homes in the old town, with meals included. A few small hotels and guesthouses sit near the bus park and the main road. For more comfort, stay at Dwarika's Resort Dhulikhel, about 30 minutes by car, and visit Panauti for the day.

Local tips

  • Book homestays at least a few days ahead, especially around festivals.
  • Ask before photographing at the triveni ghat, where cremations take place.
  • A small heritage fee may be collected from foreign visitors in the old town; carry rupees.
  • Visit Indreshwar Mahadev in the morning, when locals come for puja.
  • Combine Panauti with Dhulikhel and Namobuddha for a two-day loop east of the valley.

On the map

Panauti and what is near it

Map of Panauti, Dhulikhel, Bhaktapur, NagarkotIndiaChinaNepalPanauti1PanautiDhulikhel2DhulikhelBhaktapur3BhaktapurNagarkot4Nagarkot50 kmN
  1. 1Panauti
  2. 2Dhulikhel
  3. 3Bhaktapur
  4. 4Nagarkot
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Panauti: what travellers ask

Where is Panauti?

Panauti is a Newar town in Kavrepalanchok district, about 32 km south-east of Kathmandu and 7 km south of Banepa. It lies in a small valley of its own beyond the eastern rim of the Kathmandu Valley. The drive takes about 1.5 hours.

Is Panauti worth visiting?

Yes, if you want a quieter Newar town with real heritage and few tourists. Its 1294 temple, the triveni ghat and old lanes are lovely, and its community homestays offer a rare chance to live with a Newar family. It pairs well with Dhulikhel and Namobuddha.

How do I get from Kathmandu to Panauti?

By car, take the Araniko Highway east to Banepa, then the road south to Panauti, about 1.5 hours in total. By public transport, take a bus from Kathmandu or Bhaktapur to Banepa and change for Panauti. Private transfers are easiest with luggage.

How long should I stay in Panauti?

One night in a homestay is ideal: arrive in the afternoon, cook with your host, see the town at dawn and leave after breakfast. Two nights lets you add a hike to Balthali or Namobuddha. A day trip covers the main temple and ghats.

What is Panauti famous for?

Panauti is known for Indreshwar Mahadev, built in 1294, the triveni ghat at its holy river confluence, the Makar Mela held every twelve years, and its community homestays run by local women. It is also often linked to the origin legend of yomari.

Is Panauti a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

No, but its medieval town was placed on Nepal's tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage status in 1996. It is not part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site, which has seven separate monument zones. That keeps it quiet and unhurried.

Are Panauti homestays safe for solo women?

Yes. Panauti's homestays are run by women and hosted in family homes, which many solo women travellers appreciate. As anywhere, use normal precautions. Book through the official network or a trusted operator, and tell your host your plans for the day.

What festivals take place in Panauti?

Panauti celebrates Maghe Sankranti at its triveni ghat every January, the Makar Mela every twelve years, and its own chariot festival, Panauti Jatra, in early summer. It also marks Dashain, Tihar and Yomari Punhi. Dates follow the lunar calendar, so check current status before you travel.

Can I combine Panauti with Dhulikhel and Namobuddha?

Yes, they form a natural loop. Stay a night in Dhulikhel for mountain views, hike to Namobuddha the next day and down to Panauti for a homestay night, then drive back to Kathmandu. This gives two to three relaxed days east of the valley.

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