Indreshwar Mahadev and the triveni ghat

We begin at Indreshwar Mahadev in the town centre. The three-roofed temple stands in a courtyard with smaller shrines, and its carved roof struts show gods, goddesses and couples. Your guide explains the legend of Indra's penance, how the temple survived earthquakes, and how it is cared for by local guthis.

From the temple, we walk through brick lanes with carved windows and water spouts to the edge of town, where the Roshi and Punyamati rivers meet. Here, at the triveni ghat, stone steps lead down to the water, and small temples and rest houses line the bank. Cremations take place on the ghats, so we keep a respectful distance.

We look at the Brahmayani temple across the river and discuss the Makar Mela, held once every twelve years in the month of Magh, when pilgrims bathe here for a whole month. The walk ends in the old town square for tea and a plate of local snacks.