Sunrise over the Annapurnas from Sarangkot

Your taxi leaves Lakeside around 4:45 am in October and November, a little later in winter. The road climbs in switchbacks through the dark; from the car park it is a few minutes up steps to the viewing area, where tea sellers are already frying sel roti. Find a spot facing north and wait. In October and November dozens of people gather on the tower; arrive early for a place at the rail. Tea stalls sell hot drinks for the wait, and the sky to the east begins to pale over the hills behind Pokhara.

The light comes in a sequence. Dhaulagiri, far to the west at 8,167 m, turns pink first, then Annapurna South and Annapurna I, then Machhapuchhre's twin summit directly in front, and on very clear days Manaslu and Himalchuli far to the east. Below, the valley is often full of cloud, with Phewa appearing through gaps as the sun warms it. Photographers should bring a telephoto lens for the summits and a wider lens for the valley and the lake. The light changes quickly in the first 20 minutes, so keep shooting.

Stay for half an hour after sunrise. The crowds leave quickly, the light warms, and the ridge becomes a village again: people carrying fodder, children walking to school, buffalo being milked. Walk down part of the way through the terraces if you like, and let the driver collect you lower down. Tea stalls by the car park serve sel roti and milk tea for breakfast. Most visitors are back at Lakeside by 8 am, in time for a second breakfast by the lake and a boat ride while the air is still clear.