Hike up to Sarangkot from Lakeside

The trail begins near the north end of Lakeside, beyond the paragliding landing area, and climbs steadily on stone steps and dirt path. The first hour is forest, cool and shaded; then the trees open onto terraced fields and scattered houses with buffalo sheds and stacked maize. Villagers use this path daily, so you will share it with schoolchildren and people carrying fodder. Watch for mules and porters on the narrow sections and give them the inside of the path.

Allow 2–2.5 hours to reach the ridge road, then follow it up to the viewpoint. On the way you pass small shops for water and tea. From the ridge Phewa spreads below, and the paragliders, if it is still early afternoon, launch just beside you. It is a fine first test of trekking boots and knees. Carry two litres of water in warm months, as the slope faces south and takes the full sun. Walking poles help on the steep stone sections, and good shoes with grip matter after rain.

Time it for the afternoon and you reach the top for sunset, when the snow peaks glow pink and Pokhara's lights come on. Then sleep in a ridge guesthouse for sunrise, or take a taxi down. Walking down the next morning through the terraces is easier on the lungs but harder on the knees. If you walk down, start soon after breakfast and you will be back at Lakeside for lunch. Ask locals at forks in the path; they are used to pointing walkers in the right direction.