Trekking · Ghami
Trek in from Syangboche over the passes
The classic day on the Upper Mustang trek: from Syangboche over high passes of around 4,000 m, past chortens and prayer flags, with the first wide views of Lo, before descending to the barley fields and whitewashed houses of Ghami.
The day starts in Syangboche, a small village of lodges on the trail north from Kagbeni and Samar. We climb steadily to the first pass, marked by a chorten and prayer flags, then traverse high open slopes to a second pass at around 4,000 m. The ground is bare and stony, the sky vast, and the snow peaks of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges stand behind you to the south.
Between the passes the trail goes by old chortens, stone shelters and herders' camps used in summer. This is where the landscape of Lo opens up: badlands of eroded cliffs in grey, ochre and red, cut by deep gullies, with distant villages marked by small green patches of fields. Light changes fast here, and the wind builds after midday. Keep a windproof jacket close at hand, and stop for photographs while the light is still soft.
From the last pass the trail drops into the Ghami valley, a long descent with the village and its fields in view below. You reach Ghami in the early afternoon, after 5–6 hours of walking, with time to rest and visit the mani wall before dark. Take it slowly: this is a high day, and the altitude matters more than the distance. Rest well that evening; Tsarang is next. Drink plenty of water.
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Questions
How high are the passes before Ghami?
The passes between Syangboche and Ghami are around 3,800–4,000 m, marked by chortens and prayer flags. They are not technical, but the altitude makes the climbs slow. Most trekkers have already slept at 3,500–3,800 m by this stage, which helps. Carry water and warm layers, as the wind on the passes is cold.
How hard is the Upper Mustang trek?
It is moderate: daily walks of 5–7 hours at 3,000–4,000 m, with several passes and a rough, dusty trail shared in places with the jeep road. There are no technical sections. Fitness and acclimatisation matter more than experience. Many people now combine walking with jeep sections to shorten the trek.
Do I need a restricted area permit for Ghami?
Yes. Ghami is within the Upper Mustang restricted area, which starts north of Kagbeni. Foreigners need the special permit through a registered agency, for at least two people with a licensed guide, plus ACAP. Since a November 2025 decision the fee is reported as USD 50 per day. Check current status before you travel.
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