Nature · Ghami
The red cliffs and caves of Dhakmar
Walk from Ghami to Dhakmar, a small village under towering fluted cliffs of deep red rock, pitted with old cave dwellings. A short, beautiful walk at the heart of the legend of Guru Rinpoche and the demon, best in the late-afternoon light.
Dhakmar lies about 1.5 hours' walk from Ghami, on the side route north towards Lo Gekar and Lo Manthang. The trail leaves the main route and climbs gently across open slopes. As you come over the rise, the cliffs appear: tall walls of deep red rock, sculpted by wind and water into fluted columns and towers, with a small village of whitewashed houses at their foot. It is one of the most striking sights in Lo.
Look closely at the cliff face and you will see dark openings high above the ground. These are man-made caves, part of the thousands found across Mustang, once used as homes, storerooms, burial sites and meditation cells. Most are impossible to reach without climbing equipment, and you should not try. Your guide can explain what has been found in similar caves elsewhere in Lo. Binoculars help to see the openings clearly.
The colour is the start of the legend: local tradition says it is the blood of the demon killed by Guru Rinpoche. In the late afternoon, the sun turns the cliffs almost crimson. You can return to Ghami for the night, or stay in Dhakmar's simple lodge and continue next day via Lo Gekar to Lo Manthang, one of the finest walking days in Upper Mustang. Bring a warm layer for the walk back.
Good for
Questions
Why are the cliffs at Dhakmar red?
Geologically, the red colour comes from iron-rich sedimentary rock, eroded by wind and water into fluted shapes. Local legend tells a different story: that the cliffs were stained by the blood of a demon killed by Guru Rinpoche, whose intestines became the long mani wall near Ghami. Both explanations are worth hearing.
Can I go inside the caves at Dhakmar?
No, not safely. Most of the caves in the Dhakmar cliffs are high on sheer rock faces and can only be reached with climbing equipment. The rock is soft and crumbly. For an accessible cave complex, visit the Jhong cave at Chhoser, north-east of Lo Manthang, which has ladders and passageways for visitors.
Is there accommodation in Dhakmar?
Dhakmar has a small number of very simple lodges or homestay-style rooms. Most trekkers walk through on the way between Ghami and Lo Gekar, or visit from Ghami and return. If you want to break the day to Lo Manthang, a night here is possible; we arrange it in advance.
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