Over the Numa La and Baga La to Phoksundo

After two nights at Dho Tarap for acclimatisation, we set off west, climbing through grazing land to a high camp below the Numa La. The pass, above 5,000 m, is reached early the next morning after a long, steady climb. From the top, on a clear day, the view runs across range after range of Dolpo and south to the Dhaulagiri massif. Prayer flags and cairns mark the crossing. Take photographs, then keep moving; the wind is cold.

The descent leads into a high valley of pastures and herders' camps, where we camp before the second pass, the Baga La, also above 5,000 m. The days are long, 6–8 hours, and the altitude makes every step count. Weather can change fast, with snow possible even in autumn, so the crew carries everything needed for a forced extra night. Camps here are cold, often well below freezing at night, so a good sleeping bag and dry layers matter.

Beyond the Baga La the trail drops through birch and juniper towards the Suligad valley, and finally to Ringmo and Phoksundo Lake, a welcome sight after the passes. This crossing is for fit, experienced trekkers with good acclimatisation and a strong support crew. Allow at least one spare day for weather, and check current conditions on the passes before you travel. It is a fitting end to the circuit, and a hot meal waits in Ringmo.