Bon and Buddhist gompas of the Tarap valley

Religious life in Dho Tarap follows both Bon and Tibetan Buddhism. The valley's gompas stand among the fields and on the slopes above the villages, built of stone and mud, painted white and red, with prayer flags snapping in the wind. Some are centuries old and hold statues, wall paintings and texts kept with great care by caretakers and lamas, many of whom also farm and herd. Each has its own history and patrons.

Your guide finds the keyholder for each gompa and explains what you see. In the Buddhist temples, images of the Buddha, Guru Rinpoche and protector deities sit behind butter lamps; in the Bon temples, Tonpa Shenrab and Bon deities, with the yungdrung, the Bon swastika, turning the other way. You walk clockwise around the Buddhist shrines and counter-clockwise around the Bon ones, following local practice. It is easy to get wrong, and villagers appreciate the effort.

The visits are slow and quiet. Sit a while in the assembly halls, ask questions through your guide, and leave a donation at each, NPR 300–500 per person is appropriate. Ask before photographing inside; some lamas allow it without flash, others do not. Between gompas, the walk along mani walls and chortens across the valley is itself part of the experience. Take your time; there is no rush in Tarap.