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Kathmandu Valley · pilgrimage site

Swayambhunath

स्वयम्भूनाथ

Swayambhunath, often called the Monkey Temple, is a hilltop stupa about 3 km west of Thamel, sacred to Newar Buddhists, Tibetans and Hindus alike. Climb the 365 steps of the eastern stairway early, walk the hill kora, and stay for valley views at sunset. Two to three hours is enough.

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Swayambhunath
Photo: Nabin K. Sapkota · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Swayambhunath

Altitude1,420 m16.0% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath84%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils95.2 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-0.1 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 1,420 m; real days vary with weather.

In the valley's own creation story, this hill was the island in the lake where the self-born light of the Buddha first shone from a lotus. Whatever you believe, the setting explains the idea: a wooded hill rising alone from the western edge of Kathmandu, crowned by a white dome with painted eyes that look out over the whole city. On clear days you can see the Himalaya beyond the northern rim.

The top of the hill is crowded with shrines. Around the main stupa are smaller chaityas, prayer wheels, two tall shikhara temples, a Hindu temple to Harati, the goddess who protects children, a Tibetan monastery and a ring of shops and stalls. Newar Bajracharya priests perform the daily rituals, while Tibetan monks chant nearby. Monkeys, the reason for the English nickname, are everywhere.

Swayambhu was damaged in 2015, with one of the shikharas and several buildings on the hill falling or cracking, but the main stupa held. Today the site is fully open. It is busiest in the early morning, when locals climb for prayers and exercise, and at sunset. Come at those times to see it as people here use it, not just as a sight.

Why go

The 365 eastern steps

The old stone stairway climbs straight up the eastern face through trees and carved Buddhas, past monkeys and locals doing morning exercise. It takes 15 to 20 minutes at an easy pace and ends at the great vajra.

The stupa and its eyes

The white dome with gilded spire and the eyes of the Buddha on all four sides. Around the base are prayer wheels and the shrines of the five Buddhas. Walk round clockwise and watch priests at work.

Harati and Shantipur

Behind the stupa, the pagoda of Harati, protector of children, draws mothers with offerings. Nearby, the closed shrine of Shantipur has its own legend of a hidden sage and a rain-making mandala.

Sunset over Kathmandu

From the summit terraces, the whole city spreads east towards the hills, lights coming on as the sun drops. On clear winter evenings, peaks of the Ganesh and Langtang ranges glow to the north.

The hill kora

Locals walk a circuit round the base of the hill each morning, past rows of prayer wheels, chaityas and small monasteries. It takes about 45 minutes and shows a side of Swayambhu most visitors miss.

१The story of Swayambhunath

The hill that rose from the lake

Swayambhu is one of the oldest Buddhist sites in the valley. Tradition and inscriptions place a shrine here by the Licchavi period, and it has been rebuilt and regilded many times since. For Newar Buddhists it is the most sacred place in the valley, tied directly to the Swayambhu Purana, the text that tells how the valley was made habitable.

In the 17th century King Pratap Malla of Kathmandu left a strong mark here. He is credited with the long eastern stairway, the great gilded vajra at its top, and the two white shikhara temples of Pratapur and Anantapur that flank the stupa. Over the following centuries Newar merchants and Tibetan patrons kept regilding the spire and adding chaityas, so the summit became crowded with gifts of faith from many generations.

After 1959, Tibetan refugees settled at the foot of the hill and on its slopes, and monasteries grew. The 2015 earthquake damaged Pratapur and several monastery buildings, but the stupa itself survived with minor damage. Locals, Tibetans and donors worked together to repair the hill. Today Newar and Tibetan Buddhists, Hindus and visitors share the summit, often on the same morning kora.

२The legend
As it is told · स्वयम्भूनाथ

In the Swayambhu Purana, the valley was a great lake, and on it bloomed a lotus from which a light shone: the self-born Buddha, Swayambhu. Manjushri came from the north, drained the lake by cutting the hills at Chobhar, and the lotus came to rest on this hill, where the stupa now covers it. Local legend adds that the monkeys grew from lice in Manjushri's long hair, which is why they are treated as holy.

३The people

Who lives here

The hill and its slopes are home to Newar Buddhist families, especially Bajracharya priests who serve the stupa, and to Tibetan communities who settled after 1959 and run monasteries and shops. Many Kathmandu residents of every background climb the steps each morning for prayer or exercise. Stall keepers on the summit sell incense, butter lamps, singing bowls and tea, and many have worked there for decades.

४Words you will hear
Nepal Bhasa
चैत्य
Chaitya

Small stupa or shrine, often given by a family to earn merit

Nepal Bhasa
बज्राचार्य
Bajracharya

Newar Buddhist priestly family who perform rituals at the stupa

Nepali
बाँदर
Bandar

Monkey

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Sel roti

A ring of sweet rice-flour batter deep fried until crisp outside and soft within, made at home for Tihar and sold year round at tea stalls. The small shops at the foot of the eastern stairway and on the summit serve it hot with milk tea for climbers in the morning.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Although Swayambhu is a Buddhist site, the long eastern stairway that most pilgrims climb was built in the 17th century by Pratap Malla, the Hindu king of Kathmandu, one of many Hindu rulers who honoured the stupa.

Wikipedia: Swayambhunath

Swayambhu is shared by two Buddhist traditions: Newar Vajrayana priests perform the daily rituals at the stupa, while Tibetan monasteries on the same hill hold their own pujas. Hindus also worship here, especially at the temple of the goddess Harati.

Wikipedia: Swayambhunath

According to the Swayambhu Purana, the goddess Hariti, once feared as a taker of children, heard the Buddha preach at Swayambhu and vowed to protect the stupa and children. Her temple stands beside the main stupa.

Wikipedia: Swayambhunath

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Getting there

How to reach Swayambhunath

Road

Swayambhu is about 3 km west of Thamel. A taxi takes 15 to 20 minutes to the eastern stairway or to the western car park, which is nearer the summit and avoids most of the steps. Ride-hailing cars also work. There is no regular bus to the summit.

On foot

From Thamel, walk west via Chhetrapati and the Bishnumati bridge, about 40 minutes, to the foot of the eastern stairway. From Kathmandu Durbar Square, the old route via Bijeshwari takes a similar time and passes small shrines and old houses.

Where to stay

Most people visit from Thamel, 15 minutes away, where Kathmandu Guest House and many other hotels are within walking distance. A few small guesthouses sit at the foot of the hill and in the lanes round Swayambhu, suitable if you want to climb at dawn. For more comfort, stay in Thamel, Lazimpat or Durbar Marg and take an early taxi to the steps.

Local tips

  • Do not carry food or plastic bags openly; the monkeys snatch them and can bite.
  • Climb the eastern steps early in the morning, and take a taxi to the western car park if steps are hard for you.
  • Walk clockwise round the stupa and all chaityas, and do not sit on shrines for photos.
  • Foreign visitors pay a small entry fee at the top of the stairway or the western gate.
  • Wear shoes with grip; the old stairway is steep and smooth in places.

On the map

Swayambhunath and what is near it

Map of Swayambhunath, Kathmandu, Kirtipur, PatanIndiaChinaNepalGandakiSwayambhunath1SwayambhunathKathmandu2KathmanduKirtipur3KirtipurPatan4Patan50 kmN
  1. 1Swayambhunath
  2. 2Kathmandu
  3. 3Kirtipur
  4. 4Patan
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Swayambhunath: what travellers ask

How much is the Swayambhunath entry fee?

Foreign visitors pay a small entry fee, a few hundred rupees, at the top of the eastern stairway or the western gate. SAARC nationals pay less. The fee supports the site's upkeep. Fees change, so check current status before you travel, and carry rupees in cash.

How long does it take to visit Swayambhunath?

One to two hours covers the climb, the stupa and the summit shrines. Add 45 minutes for the hill kora and time for sunset if you want. It fits easily into a half day, combined with Kathmandu Durbar Square or a walk back into the old city.

Is Swayambhunath Buddhist or Hindu?

It is primarily Buddhist, sacred to both Newar and Tibetan Buddhists, but Hindus also worship here, especially at the Harati temple. This mix is typical of the Kathmandu Valley, where the two traditions share gods, festivals and holy places.

Are the monkeys at Swayambhunath dangerous?

They are usually used to people but can grab food, bags and glasses, and occasionally bite. Do not carry food in hand, keep bags zipped, avoid eye contact and never feed them. If one grabs something, let it go. Seek medical advice after any bite or scratch.

Can I visit Swayambhunath without climbing the steps?

Yes. Taxis can drive to a car park on the western side, from where a shorter, gentler path leads to the summit. It suits older travellers and anyone with knee problems. You still need to manage some steps and uneven ground at the top.

Was Swayambhunath damaged in the 2015 earthquake?

Yes, some buildings on the hill were damaged, including the Pratapur shikhara and parts of monasteries and houses, but the main stupa held with minor damage. Restoration is complete on most structures, and the site is fully open to visitors.

What is Swayambhunath famous for?

It is famous for its hilltop stupa with the painted eyes of the Buddha, the legend of the self-born light on the valley lake, the 365-step stairway, its monkeys and its views over Kathmandu. It is part of the Kathmandu Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site.

When is Buddha Jayanti at Swayambhunath?

Buddha Jayanti, the Buddha's birthday, falls on the full moon of Baisakh, usually in May. Swayambhu is decorated, butter lamps are lit and crowds of devotees come through the day. Dates follow the lunar calendar, so check current status before you travel.

Is Swayambhunath worth visiting with children?

Yes. Children usually enjoy the monkeys, the prayer wheels and the views, and the climb gives them something to do. Keep a close eye on them near monkeys and on the steep stairway, and carry snacks in a closed bag rather than in hand.

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