Asoj 2083 BSअसोज २०८३· Nepal runs on its own calendar

Nature · Swayambhunath

Sunset over Kathmandu from Swayambhu

Reach the summit an hour before sunset, walk the stupa as the light turns gold, and find a spot on the eastern terrace to watch the valley glow and the city lights come on. On clear winter evenings, snow peaks catch the last light to the north.

Takes1.5 hours
Best timeLate afternoon, Oct–Feb
Height1,420 m
Sunset over Kathmandu from Swayambhu
Photo: Nirmal Dulal · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

In autumn and winter the late afternoon light at Swayambhu is soft and warm, and the stupa's gilded spire glows against a deep blue sky. We arrive about an hour before sunset by the western car park, walk round the stupa once, and watch the evening lamps being lit in the shrines.

Then we find a place on the eastern terrace. The old city of Kathmandu lies below, its temples and the white Dharahara picked out in the low light, with Patan beyond and the hills of Phulchoki and Nagarkot on the far rim. On clear evenings from October to February, look north for the snow peaks catching pink light.

As the sun drops, the city's lights come on and prayer flags turn dark against the sky. Monkeys settle into the trees for the night. We walk down the eastern stairway in the dusk, with a torch for the lower steps, and take a taxi back to Thamel for dinner.

Good for

CouplesPhotographersFamiliesFirst-timers

Questions

Can you see mountains from Swayambhunath?

On clear days, mostly October to February, you can see snow peaks of the Ganesh Himal and Langtang ranges to the north beyond the valley rim. Haze and cloud often hide them, especially from March to September. The view over Kathmandu itself is reliable all year.

Is Swayambhunath open in the evening?

Yes. The summit is open from early morning to evening, and sunset is a popular time. Walk down before it is fully dark, or use a torch on the eastern stairway, which is not well lit. Monkeys are more active around dusk, so keep bags closed.

Is Swayambhu good for photography?

Very. Sunrise and sunset give warm light on the stupa, prayer flags and city. Wide lenses work for the stupa, and a zoom helps for mountains and monkeys. Drones are not permitted. Ask before close portraits of pilgrims or monks, and do not use flash in shrines.

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