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Trekking · Changunarayan

Nagarkot to Changunarayan along the ridge

After a Nagarkot sunrise, walk west along the ridge via Telkot through pine forest and villages, then down to Changunarayan. About 12 km, mostly downhill, with mountain views early and the Licchavi temple at the end. A classic valley day hike.

Takes4–5 hours
Best timeOct–Apr, after Nagarkot sunrise
Height1,541 m
Nagarkot to Changunarayan along the ridge
Photo: Rajesh Dhungana · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

We start after breakfast at Nagarkot, around 2,100 m, and follow the ridge west. The first stretch passes through pine forest and small Tamang and Brahmin-Chhetri settlements, with views back to the snow peaks on clear mornings. The path is broad and easy to follow with a guide.

After about 2 hours we reach Telkot, a junction village on the road, where we stop for tea. From here the route drops along a quieter ridge through fields and scattered houses, with the Kathmandu Valley opening up ahead. The descent is steady, with a few steep sections on loose ground.

We arrive at Changunarayan from above, through the back of the village, and visit the temple and its Licchavi sculptures with fresh legs and a sense of how isolated it once was. From here, continue on foot to Bhaktapur for a long day, or meet your car for the drive back to Kathmandu.

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Questions

How long is the Nagarkot to Changunarayan hike?

About 12 km and 4 to 5 hours, mostly downhill, from around 2,100 m at Nagarkot to about 1,540 m at Changunarayan, via Telkot. It is easy to moderate for regular walkers. Adding the walk to Bhaktapur makes a full day of 6 to 7 hours.

Is the Nagarkot to Changunarayan trail well marked?

Partly. Some sections follow roads and are obvious, but village paths and junctions are not well signed. A guide or a good offline map is recommended. Start early to have time for tea stops and the temple visit.

What is the best season for the Nagarkot to Changunarayan hike?

October to April is best, with dry trails and clear mountain views in the morning, especially October to February. Monsoon months make paths muddy and slippery, with leeches in forest sections and few views. Start early in any season.

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