Heritage · Changunarayan
Read Changunarayan's Licchavi stones with a guide
A close look at the temple courtyard with a guide who knows its sculptures: Manadeva's 464 CE pillar, the kneeling Garuda, and Licchavi images of Vishnu as Trivikrama, Vishwarupa and Narasimha. Learn to read a temple strut and see why this site matters to Nepal's history.
We enter the courtyard by the main gate and start with the temple itself, a two-roofed pagoda rebuilt in the early 18th century. Its struts show the many forms of Vishnu and other deities, and its gilded doors and windows are decorated with mythical creatures. Your guide explains how to read the struts from bottom to top.
Then we turn to the older stones. Near the western door stands the pillar of King Manadeva, dated 464 CE, with its Sanskrit text recording how he persuaded his mother not to follow his father in death. In front of the main door, Garuda kneels with joined hands. Tradition says his face is Manadeva's.
Around the courtyard we look at Licchavi carvings of Vishnu: Trivikrama striding across the worlds, the many-armed Vishwarupa, and Narasimha tearing apart the demon king. We also see later shrines to Chhinnamasta, Lakshmi and Shiva. The tour ends with time to sit and watch villagers making their morning offerings.
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Questions
Why is Changunarayan temple important?
It is one of the oldest temple sites in the Kathmandu Valley and holds Nepal's oldest dated inscription, carved for King Manadeva in 464 CE. Its courtyard has some of the finest Licchavi stone sculpture in Nepal. It is one of the seven monument zones of the Kathmandu Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site.
How much is the Changunarayan entry fee?
Foreign visitors pay an entry fee of a few hundred rupees at the gate to the village; SAARC nationals pay less and Nepalis enter free. The ticket covers the temple courtyard. Fees change, so check current status before you travel and carry rupees in cash.
Can non-Hindus enter Changunarayan temple?
Non-Hindus can enter the courtyard and see all the sculptures, the inscription and the temple exterior. Only Hindus may enter the inner sanctum where the main image is kept. Remove shoes where signs ask, and do not touch offerings.
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