Dawn climb to Panchase summit

The climb from Panchase Bhanjyang to the summit takes about an hour on a stone and earth trail, steep in places, through oak and rhododendron forest. Start with a headlamp around 5 am in autumn. The air smells of moss and wood smoke from the village below. Near the top the trees thin and the shrines and small ponds appear in the grey light. Walk at your own pace; there is no rush to arrive long before the light.

From the summit the view runs from Dhaulagiri in the northwest across Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Machhapuchhre and Annapurna II, with Lamjung Himal and, on clear days, Manaslu further east. To the east the Pokhara valley and Phewa Lake catch the first sun. Because few trekkers come, you may have the top to yourself or share it with a handful of local pilgrims. On hazy spring mornings the peaks may be faint, but the forest and the quiet still make the climb worthwhile.

Stay until the cloud starts to rise, usually by 8 or 9 am, then come down for breakfast. Respect the shrines: walk around them clockwise, keep shoes off where locals do, and leave nothing behind. Some shrines have bells; ring them gently if locals do. On the way down, the forest is full of birdsong, and in March and April the rhododendrons around the summit are in flower. Back at the lodge, a hot breakfast of tea, eggs and roti waits by the stove.