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Pokhara & the Annapurnas · village

Dhampus

धम्पुस

Dhampus is a Gurung village spread along a ridge at about 1,650 m, an hour's drive northwest of Pokhara. It faces Annapurna South, Machhapuchhre and Dhaulagiri across the Modi valley, sits at the start of the Mardi Himal trek, and makes an easy one or two-night village stay from Pokhara.

  • Stay 1–2 nights
  • Best Feb – Apr · Oct – Nov
  • पहाडPahad
Dhampus
Photo: Gerd Eichmann · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Dhampus

Altitude1,650 m18.6% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath82%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils94.4 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-1.6 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 1,650 m; real days vary with weather.

Dhampus is where many first-time trekkers feel the mountains come close. From Phedi, on the Pokhara–Baglung road, a stone staircase climbs about 500 m through forest and terraces to the long ridge where Dhampus's houses spread out over a few kilometres. Turn round at the top and Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre stand directly across the valley, with Dhaulagiri far to the west. The climb takes about two hours, and every step of it is used daily by villagers carrying loads.

The village is Gurung at its core, with stone houses, slate and tin roofs, millet terraces and buffalo sheds, and newer lodges built for trekkers along the trail. It lies inside the Annapurna Conservation Area, so permits are checked here. From Dhampus the trail continues to Pothana and Australian Camp, then on to Mardi Himal, Landruk and the Annapurna Sanctuary. Lodges along the ridge have terraces facing the mountains, and the older houses sit just below them.

Most people pass through in an hour on day one of a trek. Stop instead. Spend a night, walk the ridge at sunset, eat with a family and watch the range turn pink at dawn without having climbed above 2,000 m. Families with young children and older travellers often find Dhampus and Australian Camp give them the Annapurna experience without a long trek. Altitude is not a concern at this height, though nights are cool.

Why go

Annapurna South across the valley

From the ridge Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre fill the view to the north, with Dhaulagiri to the west. Sunset and sunrise light are best from October to February. Ask for a north-facing room or terrace for the best view.

The steps from Phedi

A stone staircase and forest path climb about 500 m from Phedi on the Baglung road to Dhampus in around two hours, the classic first climb of many Annapurna treks. Walking poles help on the steep stone steps.

Australian Camp

A grassy clearing at about 2,060 m, an easy walk from Dhampus via Pothana, with wide mountain views and a few lodges. Popular for a first night out of Pokhara. Families with children often walk here and back in two days.

Gurung village life

Walk the ridge path past stone houses, millet terraces and buffalo sheds. Evenings bring families home from the fields and children practising for school exams by headlamp. A local guide can introduce you to families and explain what you see.

Start of the Mardi Himal trek

The Mardi Himal route climbs from here through Pothana and Forest Camp to the ridge under Machhapuchhre, making Dhampus the natural first night. The first day from Dhampus to Forest Camp is long and climbs through dense forest.

१The story of Dhampus

A Gurung ridge on the Mardi trail

Dhampus grew as a farming village on a sunny ridge above the Modi and Seti valleys, with water from springs and forests for fodder above. Gurung families, who call themselves Tamu, farmed millet, maize and rice on terraces carved down both sides, and sent their sons to the Gurkha regiments. The pension money, and later remittances from the Gulf and Malaysia, rebuilt many houses. Many households also kept bees, buffalo and goats, and some still do.

For decades Dhampus was a stop on the trail between Pokhara's valley and the villages of the Modi Khola, and later on early treks into the Annapurna Sanctuary. At the 1991 census about 2,750 people lived in its 547 households. As trekking grew, families opened tea houses along the path, and the area joined the Annapurna Conservation Area, which shapes how the forest is used and how lodges operate. Lodge owners agreed standards and prices through local committees.

The opening of the Mardi Himal route to teahouse trekking in the 2010s brought Dhampus a new role as a trailhead. A road now reaches the village, so jeeps can drop walkers at the top of the steps. The farms and the Gurung festivals continue alongside: Tamu Lhosar at the end of December, harvest work in October, and weddings in the cool months when soldiers come home on leave. Farming still sets the rhythm of the year.

३The people

Who lives here

Dhampus is mainly Gurung, with Brahmin, Chhetri and Dalit households in parts of the village. Most families farm and keep buffalo and goats, and many have members in the British or Indian Gurkhas, in Gulf countries or in Pokhara. Gurung religious life mixes Buddhist lamas with the older Pachyu and Ghyabri priests, who perform funeral and household rites. Lodge-keeping is now a major income on the trail.

४Words you will hear
Gurung
Tamu Kyi
Tamu Kyi

The Gurung language, as Gurungs call it

Nepali
फेदी
Phedi

Foot of a hill, the bottom of a climb

Nepali
बिस्तारै
Bistarai

Slowly; what your guide says on steep steps

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Kodo ko roti with honey

Flat bread of finger millet flour, dark and nutty, cooked on a griddle and eaten with local honey, ghee or a pickle. Gurung kitchens in Dhampus make it for breakfast, and some lodges serve it if asked the evening before. Millet is the old staple of these ridges.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

At the 1991 census Dhampus village development committee had 2,753 people in 547 households; it lies on the Mardi Himal trekking route and is close to Australian Camp, with views of Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Machhapuchhre.

Wikipedia: Dhampus

Gurung religious life has two kinds of traditional priests besides Buddhist lamas: the Pachyu (Paju) and the Ghyabri (Ghyabring), who perform rites such as funerals, and some villages keep traces of pre-Buddhist Bon practice.

Wikipedia: Gurung people

The Gurung call themselves Tamu and their language Tamu Kyi, a tonal Tibeto-Burman language of the Tamangic group, related to Thakali and Manange.

Wikipedia: Gurung people; Wikipedia: Manang language

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Dhampus

Road

Drive from Pokhara to Phedi on the Pokhara–Baglung road, about 20 km and 40–50 minutes, then either walk up or continue on the road to Dhampus by jeep, around 30–45 minutes more. Local buses for Baglung stop at Phedi. A private jeep from Lakeside is easiest.

On foot

From Phedi (about 1,130 m) a stone staircase climbs to Dhampus in 1.5–2 hours. From Dhampus, Pothana and Australian Camp are 1.5–2.5 hours further, and the trail continues to Mardi Himal or down to Landruk and the Modi Khola.

Where to stay

Dhampus has a string of family lodges and homestays along the ridge, with simple rooms, shared or attached bathrooms and big terraces facing the Annapurnas. Australian Camp and Pothana, an hour or two further, have similar lodges. Expect hot showers powered by solar or gas, dal bhat and a few Western dishes. There are no luxury hotels; for comfort, sleep in Pokhara at Temple Tree Resort or Hotel Barahi and come up for the day.

Local tips

  • Dhampus is inside the Annapurna Conservation Area: carry your ACAP permit and TIMS card, and walk with a licensed guide; check current status before you travel.
  • Climb the Phedi steps in the morning or late afternoon; midday is hot below 1,500 m in spring.
  • Ask for a north-facing room, the views are the reason to sleep here.
  • Lodge Wi-Fi and phone signal are usually available but can drop in bad weather.
  • Carry cash; few lodges take cards and the nearest ATMs are in Pokhara.

On the map

Dhampus and what is near it

Map of Dhampus, Mardi Himal, Pokhara, Ghandruk, SarangkotIndiaChinaNepalGandakiDhampus1DhampusMardi Himal2Mardi HimalPokhara3PokharaGhandruk4GhandrukSarangkot5Sarangkot50 kmN
  1. 1Dhampus
  2. 2Mardi Himal
  3. 3Pokhara
  4. 4Ghandruk
  5. 5Sarangkot
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Dhampus: what travellers ask

How do I get to Dhampus from Pokhara?

Drive about 20 km on the Pokhara–Baglung road to Phedi, 40–50 minutes, then walk up the stone steps in 1.5–2 hours. Alternatively, a jeep can drive all the way to Dhampus, about 1.5 hours from Pokhara. Local Baglung buses stop at Phedi. Most trekkers use a private jeep booked through their agency or hotel.

What is the altitude of Dhampus?

Dhampus village sits at about 1,650 m on a ridge, roughly 500 m above Phedi and 800 m above Pokhara. Australian Camp nearby is about 2,060 m. These heights pose no altitude risk for healthy visitors. Nights are cool, especially from November to February, when lodges supply blankets and you will want a warm jacket.

Do I need a permit to visit Dhampus?

Yes. Dhampus is inside the Annapurna Conservation Area, so you need an ACAP permit and a TIMS card, and since April 2023 foreign trekkers must walk with a licensed guide. Permits are checked on the trail. They are issued in Kathmandu and Pokhara. Rules have changed several times, so check current status before you travel.

Is Dhampus worth visiting?

Yes, especially if you want mountain views and village life without a long trek. From the ridge, Annapurna South, Machhapuchhre and Dhaulagiri are in full view, and the Gurung village is friendly and lived-in. It suits families, older travellers and short trips, and it is the natural first night of the Mardi Himal trek.

Can you see Machhapuchhre from Dhampus?

Yes. Machhapuchhre is one of the main peaks in view, along with Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Annapurna II to IV to the east and Dhaulagiri far to the west. Its fishtail shape is less obvious from this angle than from Pokhara. Views are clearest at sunrise and sunset from October to February.

How many days do I need for Dhampus?

One night is enough to see sunset and sunrise and walk the village. Two nights let you add Australian Camp or a longer walk. Many people visit as the first night of a Mardi Himal or Annapurna Base Camp trek. A combined Dhampus and Australian Camp loop from Pokhara takes two nights at an easy pace.

What are the lodges like in Dhampus?

Simple family lodges and homestays, with twin rooms, blankets, shared or attached bathrooms and solar or gas hot showers. Dining rooms serve dal bhat, noodles, momo and some Western dishes. Terraces face the Annapurnas. There are no luxury hotels. Wi-Fi is usually available but slow. Bring a sleeping bag liner and headlamp.

Is Dhampus suitable for elderly travellers?

Yes, by jeep. The road now reaches the village, so you can avoid the steep climb from Phedi and still enjoy the views and village walks. Lodges are simple, with steps between levels and sometimes outside bathrooms, so check rooms in advance. Altitude is not an issue at 1,650 m.

What is the best season to visit Dhampus?

October and November give the clearest mountain views and dry trails. February to April are warm with rhododendrons in flower on the way to Australian Camp, though afternoon haze builds. December and January are clear but cold at night. June to September brings monsoon rain, cloud, mud and leeches, and we do not recommend it.

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