Heritage · Tsarang
Tsarang's red gompa and white dzong
Visit the Sakya gompa of Tsarang with its caretaker, then walk around the five-storey dzong beside it, the old fortress-palace of the rulers of Lo, both traditionally dated to the late 14th century and set on the edge of a canyon.
We walk through the village to its eastern end, where the gompa and the dzong stand side by side. The gompa's red walls and the dzong's white bulk make one of the great sights of Upper Mustang. Your guide will find the caretaker, usually a monk or a family member responsible for the keys, who will open the assembly hall for you. Shoes and hats come off at the door, and voices drop.
Inside the gompa, the light is dim, so bring a torch. Old statues of the Buddha and of Sakya masters sit behind rows of butter lamps, and the walls are covered with paintings darkened by age and smoke. Texts are stacked in wooden shelves. The caretaker may show you other rooms. Leave a donation, NPR 300–500 per person is appropriate, and ask before taking any photographs. Take your time; the details reward a slow look.
Then walk around the outside of the dzong. Traditionally linked to the time of Ame Pal, it is five storeys tall, with small windows and thick walls of mud and stone. Parts are ruined and unsafe, so do not go inside unless the caretaker invites you to a safe section. Finish at the canyon edge behind the buildings, where the late sun lights both walls. It is a fitting end to the visit.
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Questions
How old are Tsarang's dzong and gompa?
Both are traditionally dated to the late 14th century, the time of Ame Pal, who founded the kingdom of Lo around 1380. They have been repaired and altered over the centuries, and parts of the dzong are now in ruins. The gompa belongs to the Sakya school and is still in use today.
Can I go inside Tsarang dzong?
Usually only to limited parts, and only with the caretaker. Much of the dzong is fragile, with weak floors and crumbling walls, and some sections are unsafe. Your guide will ask whether any part is open during your visit. Never climb onto ruined sections or roofs; it endangers you and the building.
Is there an entry fee at Tsarang gompa?
There is often no fixed ticket, but a donation is expected; NPR 300–500 per person is appropriate, given to the caretaker or placed in the donation box. In some seasons a set fee may apply. The money goes to the upkeep of the monastery. Check current practice with your guide or lodge.
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