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Lumbini & the Buddha's Country · archaeological site

Niglihawa

निग्लिहवा Nigali Sagar (after the pond beside the pillar)

Niglihawa, also called Nigali Sagar, is a site in Kapilvastu district about 7 km north-east of Taulihawa where two fragments of an Ashokan pillar lie beside a large pond. Its Brahmi inscription records that Ashoka enlarged the stupa of Konakamana (Kanakamuni) Buddha. It is a 30-minute stop on a Kapilvastu day.

  • Stay 0 nights
  • Best Oct – Feb
  • तराईTerai
Niglihawa
Photo: David Lowry [1] · CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Niglihawa

Altitude105 m1.2% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltTeraiतराई · The plains: sal forest, rice, rhino country
Each breath99%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils99.6 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu+8.4 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 105 m; real days vary with weather.

Niglihawa is a pond, a low bank and two pieces of polished stone. The larger fragment stands upright in the earth, the smaller lies beside it, and around them stretch the fields of northern Kapilvastu. Locals call the pond Nigali Sagar, and the name has passed to the pillar.

The upright fragment carries a short Brahmi inscription in Ashoka's name. It says that in the 14th year of his reign he enlarged the stupa of Buddha Konakamana to double its size, and in his 20th year came in person to worship and set up a stone pillar. It is the same year he visited Lumbini, around 249 BCE.

The site is small, but the words on the stone matter: this is one of the oldest records anywhere of a Buddhist stupa being honoured, and of a Buddha before Gautama.

Why go

The inscribed fragment

The upright pillar fragment with Ashoka's Brahmi inscription about the stupa of Konakamana Buddha. The lettering is worn but visible at close range, especially in low side light early or late in the day.

The second fragment

A second, longer piece of polished pillar lies on the ground beside it. Together they show how big the original column was, and the polish still catches the light after 2,200 years.

Ripu Malla's line

A short medieval inscription with 'Om mani padme hum' and King Ripu Malla's name, dated about 1312 CE. Finding the same king's mark here and at Lumbini shows these pillars were being visited long before archaeologists arrived.

Nigali Sagar pond

The large village pond that gives the site its popular name. In winter egrets, herons and sometimes cranes feed at its edges, and its banks are a quiet place to sit.

A clear link with Lumbini

The inscription dates Ashoka's visit to the 20th year of his reign, the same year as his visit to Lumbini, about 22 km away. Seeing both on the same day makes his journey easy to imagine.

१The story of Niglihawa

A hunting party, a pond and a lost lion capital

In 1893 a Nepali officer out hunting in the Tarai forests came upon a fallen stone pillar beside a pond. Two years later, in March 1895, Alois Führer studied it and its inscriptions. Besides the Brahmi lines of Ashoka there were later additions, including 'Om mani padme hum' and a line for King Ripu Malla dated to 1312 CE, the same king who left his mark on the Lumbini pillar.

Führer then wrote a lavish description of a great Konakamana stupa surrounded by ruined monasteries. None of it existed. In 1901 it was shown he had copied the passage almost word for word from Alexander Cunningham's report on the stupas at Sanchi. Yet Vincent Smith, who exposed Führer, accepted the inscription itself as genuine, and the leading modern scholar of Ashoka's inscriptions, Harry Falk, agrees.

The pillar was not found in its original place: there is no foundation under it. It may have been moved from Gotihawa or from Taulihawa. The writer Charles Allen suggested the upper part may once have been used as a roller for crushing sugarcane. Xuanzang, in the 7th century, saw a lion on top of the pillar. That capital has never been found.

२The legend
As it is told · निग्लिहवा

Buddhist tradition counts Konagamana, called Kanakamuni in Sanskrit, as the second Buddha of the present age, after Kakusandha and before Kassapa and Gautama. The Buddhavamsa says he was born in the city of Sobhavati and found enlightenment under an udumbara fig tree. Pilgrims link his birthplace and stupa to the country around Niglihawa, and Ashoka's inscription shows his stupa was already old and honoured by the 3rd century BCE.

३The people

Who lives here

The villages around Niglihawa are home to Awadhi-speaking Madhesi farmers, Tharu families and Muslim households, with Pahadi settlers who came down from the hills in the 1960s and 1970s. Sugarcane, rice and wheat are the main crops, and many households keep buffalo. Children and grazing goats are usually your company at the pillar.

Local name: Nigali Sagar (after the pond beside the pillar)

४Words you will hear
Nepali
सागर
sagar

Literally ocean; used for a large pond or tank, as in Nigali Sagar

Nepali
उखु
ukhu

Sugarcane, the main cash crop around the pillar

Nepali
अभिलेख
abhilekh

Inscription, such as Ashoka's lines on the pillar

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Fresh sugarcane juice

Pressed to order through a hand-cranked or motor roller, with ginger, lemon and a pinch of black salt. Cane is the crop of the fields around Niglihawa, and stalls in Taulihawa and on the Lumbini road sell glasses of it from about February to June.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

The Nigali Sagar inscription contains the earliest known written record of the word stupa, in its Prakrit form 'thube', in the line recording that Ashoka enlarged Konakamana's stupa.

Wikipedia: Nigali Sagar

Alois Führer's 1895 account of ruined monasteries and a great stupa around the pillar was invented; in 1901 it was shown he had copied it almost word for word from Cunningham's report on Sanchi.

Wikipedia: Nigali Sagar

Besides Ashoka's Brahmi lines, the pillar carries 'Om mani padme hum' and a wish for King Ripu Malla dated Saka 1234, about 1312 CE, matching a similar line on the Lumbini pillar.

Wikipedia: Nigali Sagar

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Getting there

How to reach Niglihawa

Road

Niglihawa is about 25 km north-west of Lumbini, around 50 minutes by private car, and about 7 km north-east of Taulihawa. The last stretch is on village roads. It is usually visited with Tilaurakot, Kudan and Gotihawa in a day from Lumbini.

Air

Fly Kathmandu to Bhairahawa in about 35 minutes, then drive roughly 45 km, about 1.5 hours, to Niglihawa.

Where to stay

There is no accommodation at Niglihawa. Base yourself in Lumbini, under an hour away, at Buddha Maya Gardens near the Sacred Garden or the Lumbini Hokke Hotel in the Cultural Zone, and see Niglihawa as part of the Kapilvastu loop. Taulihawa, 7 km away, has a few basic local hotels.

Local tips

  • Come in the early morning or late afternoon, when side light makes the worn Brahmi letters easier to read.
  • Ask your guide to bring a printed transcription of the inscription to follow on the stone.
  • Do not climb on or lean against the pillar fragments; they are protected monuments.
  • The pond banks can be muddy after rain, so wear shoes you do not mind getting dirty.
  • Visit Niglihawa on the same day as Lumbini's pillar to compare the two inscriptions from the same year.

On the map

Niglihawa and what is near it

Map of Niglihawa, Gotihawa, Tilaurakot, Kudan, LumbiniIndiaChinaNepalGandakiNiglihawa1NiglihawaGotihawa2GotihawaTilaurakot3TilaurakotKudan4KudanLumbini5Lumbini50 kmN
  1. 1Niglihawa
  2. 2Gotihawa
  3. 3Tilaurakot
  4. 4Kudan
  5. 5Lumbini
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Niglihawa: what travellers ask

Where is Niglihawa?

Niglihawa is in Kapilvastu district, Lumbini Province, about 7 km north-east of Taulihawa and about 25 km north-west of Lumbini by road. The pillar stands beside a large pond called Nigali Sagar, which gives the site its other name.

What is Nigali Sagar?

Nigali Sagar is the pond beside the Niglihawa pillar, and the name is also used for the archaeological site. It holds two fragments of an Ashokan pillar, one with an inscription recording that Ashoka enlarged the stupa of Konakamana Buddha and later visited to worship and erect the pillar.

Who was Kanakamuni Buddha?

Kanakamuni, called Konagamana in Pali, is named in Buddhist texts as the second of the Buddhas of the present age, after Krakuchchanda and before Kassapa and Gautama. The Buddhavamsa says he was born in Sobhavati and found enlightenment under an udumbara tree. Ashoka's Niglihawa inscription names him.

Is the Niglihawa pillar in its original location?

No. Archaeologists found no foundation under it, so the fragments were moved from somewhere else, perhaps several kilometres. Candidates include Gotihawa, whose pillar base has no matching upper part, and Taulihawa. Exactly when and why it was moved is unknown.

How long should I spend at Niglihawa?

About 30–45 minutes is enough to see the pillar fragments, read the inscription with a guide and walk around the pond. Birders may want an extra hour in the early morning. Most visitors combine it with Tilaurakot, Kudan and Gotihawa.

When was the Niglihawa pillar discovered?

The pillar was found in 1893 by a Nepali officer on a hunting expedition, and Alois Führer studied its inscriptions in March 1895. Its discovery helped lead to the excavation of the Lumbini pillar inscription in December 1896, about 22 km away.

Is there an entry fee at Niglihawa?

Niglihawa has generally had no formal ticket office, with the pillar in a simple enclosure by the pond. Site management by the Lumbini Development Trust and Department of Archaeology may change, so check current status before you travel.

Is the Niglihawa inscription the oldest use of the word stupa?

Yes, it is the earliest known written record of the word, in its Prakrit form 'thube', in the line about enlarging Konakamana's stupa. Stupas were built earlier, but this inscription is the first surviving text to name one.

What is the best time to visit Niglihawa?

October to March offers mild days and good light. Early morning or late afternoon is best for reading the worn inscription in side light and for birds on the pond. Avoid midday from April to June, when temperatures pass 38 °C and there is little shade.

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