Early bird walk in Shivapuri forest

Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park protects the forested hills on the north rim of the Kathmandu Valley, and its mix of oak, rhododendron and pine supports a large bird list, with more than 300 species recorded in the park. Chisapani, on the northern edge, is a good base for an early walk. The park also protects the catchment that supplies part of Kathmandu's drinking water, so its forests are some of the best preserved close to the city. Walking quietly in them at dawn feels a world away from the traffic below.

We set out at dawn along quiet forest trails near the village. Typical sightings include laughingthrushes, minivets, barbets, woodpeckers and, in winter, flocks of tits and warblers that move through the canopy. Kalij pheasants feed on the forest floor early in the morning. A local birding guide knows the calls and the best spots for each species, and makes a huge difference. Without one, you may hear far more birds than you see. Morning light filters through the oaks, and the forest is at its liveliest in the first two hours.

Mammals such as barking deer, macaques and squirrels are possible, while leopards live in the park but are rarely seen. Bring binoculars and dull-coloured clothes, and move slowly. Back for breakfast by 9 am, before continuing your walk. Keep to the trails, do not play recorded calls to attract birds, and avoid feeding monkeys. Leave no litter: the park's rangers and local volunteers work hard to keep the trails clean. A slow walk is the whole point; there is no summit to reach.