Morning at the Briddim gompa

Briddim's gompa sits among the houses, with prayer wheels set into its walls and flags strung above. It was damaged in the 2015 earthquake and repaired by the village. In the early morning, older residents walk around it clockwise, spinning the wheels and murmuring mantras. Join them for a circuit or two if you like: walk slowly, clockwise, and turn the wheels with your right hand. Nobody minds visitors taking part, as long as you follow the direction and keep the pace of the people in front of you.

If the caretaker or lama is present, you may be invited inside. Take off your shoes and hat, walk clockwise, and sit quietly while lamps are lit. Images usually include Guru Padmasambhava and the Buddha, along with protector deities. Ask before photographing inside. Inside, the light is dim and the air smells of butter lamps and incense. Sit cross-legged on the floor or on a cushion near the back, keep your feet tucked under you, and stay quiet. If a lama is chanting, wait until he pauses before you get up to leave.

Your host or guide can explain the gompa's role in village life: blessings for new houses and fields, funerals, festivals such as Sonam Lhosar and Buddha Jayanti. Leave a small donation for the butter lamps before you go. The gompa depends on village contributions for lamps, repairs and festival costs, and visitors' donations help. Put money in the box near the door or hand it to the caretaker with both hands. Your guide can tell you what is usual.