Heritage · Pharping
Shesh Narayan's ponds and Nepal's first power plant
Explore the lower slopes of Pharping: the cliff-side Shesh Narayan temple with its ponds and Licchavi carvings, and the old Pharping hydropower station of 1911, the first in Nepal. Two layers of history in one easy walk.
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Shesh Narayan sits at the foot of a cliff on the road below Pharping, where springs feed a series of stone ponds full of fish. A temple to Vishnu, resting on the serpent Shesha, stands beside them, and old Licchavi-era carvings decorate the rock. Above, a shallow cave, Yanglesho, is sacred to Tibetan Buddhists.
We spend time at the ponds, watching families feed fish and make offerings, and your guide explains the carvings and the shared Hindu and Buddhist worship of the site. Then we walk a short distance to the old hydropower station built in 1911 by Chandra Shumsher Rana, Nepal's first.
The powerhouse is a modest brick building, but it marks the moment electricity reached Nepal, first lighting the Rana palaces in Kathmandu. Access to the interior varies; even from outside, it is a good place to talk about how Nepal, now a hydropower exporter in good monsoon years, got its start here.
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Questions
What is Shesh Narayan temple?
Shesh Narayan is a Vishnu temple at the foot of a cliff below Pharping, beside spring-fed ponds and Licchavi-era rock carvings. It is sacred to Hindus, and the Yanglesho cave above is important to Tibetan Buddhists as a place where Guru Rinpoche meditated. It is quiet and shaded.
When was Nepal's first hydropower plant built?
The Pharping hydropower station was built in 1911 under Rana prime minister Chandra Shumsher, with a capacity of about 500 kW. It supplied electricity to Kathmandu's palaces. The old building still stands near Pharping and is a heritage site.
Can I visit the Pharping hydropower station?
You can see the old powerhouse from outside, and interior access has been possible on some occasions. Rules vary, so ask your guide or check current status before you travel. It is a short walk from Shesh Narayan and easy to include in a Pharping visit.
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