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Kathmandu Valley · pilgrimage site

Pashupatinath

पशुपतिनाथ

Pashupatinath is Nepal's most sacred Hindu temple, a gilded pagoda of Shiva on the Bagmati River 5 km east of Thamel. Non-Hindus cannot enter the main courtyard but can watch from the east bank, where cremations, rituals and the evening aarti unfold. Give it two to three hours with a guide.

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Pashupatinath
Photo: Bijay Chaurasia · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Pashupatinath

Altitude1,330 m15.0% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath85%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils95.5 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu+0.5 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 1,330 m; real days vary with weather.

Pashupatinath is not a monument but a working holy place, and it can be overwhelming. On the west bank of the Bagmati stands the main temple, a two-roofed pagoda with gilded roofs and silver doors, where Shiva is worshipped as Pashupati, lord of animals. Below it, on the stone ghats along the river, families cremate their dead in the open, as Hindus in Nepal have done for centuries.

Non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple courtyard, but the east bank is open to all. From its terraces, lined with small stone shrines to Shiva, you look across at the temple roofs and the ghats. Sadhus sit in the shade, pilgrims bathe, monkeys scamper over the shrines, and the smoke of the pyres drifts over the water.

Come with respect and an open mind. Cremations are private family moments held in public, so keep your distance and your camera low. With a guide, the rituals make sense: why the body is carried three times round the pyre, why the eldest son shaves his head, why ashes go into the Bagmati, which flows on to the Ganges. Many visitors say this was the place they understood Nepal best.

Why go

The east bank terraces

From the stone terraces across the river, lined with small Shiva shrines, you see the gilded temple roofs and the ghats below. This is where non-Hindus watch, and where a guide explains each ritual.

Arya Ghat and the cremations

On the stone platforms by the river, families prepare and cremate their dead. Watch from a distance and in silence, with no photographs of faces or close-ups. It is moving and humbling.

Evening aarti

At dusk, priests perform aarti on the riverbank with lamps, bells, conch shells and songs, and crowds gather on both banks. It begins around sunset; the time shifts with the season.

Mrigasthali forest

Up the steps behind the east bank, a small wooded hill with monkeys, deer in an enclosure, temples and the old Gorakhnath shrine. A quieter walk above the crowds.

Guhyeshwari temple

A short walk upstream, the temple of the goddess Guhyeshwari, one of the Shakti Peethas, stands by the river. Non-Hindus can see its courtyard roofs from outside the gates.

Shivaratri

On the great night of Shiva, in February or March, sadhus from across Nepal and India gather, fires burn all night and huge crowds queue to worship. Expect very dense crowds and long queues; go with a guide.

१The story of Pashupatinath

Lord of the animals on the holy Bagmati

Worship of Shiva at Pashupati is very old. Licchavi inscriptions of the first millennium mention the god, and the site has been a destination for pilgrims from across the Indian subcontinent for well over a thousand years. The present two-tiered pagoda dates largely from the late 17th century, rebuilt on earlier foundations. Inside is a four-faced linga that only Hindus may see.

For centuries the temple's chief priests have been Bhatta Brahmins from South India, a tradition linked to the reforms of the Malla period. Their assistants, the Rajbhandaris, are local Newar families. The temple was closely linked to Nepal's kings, who worshipped here on major occasions, and the royal family was cremated at Arya Ghat. Today the Pashupati Area Development Trust manages the large complex.

In 2015 the main temple survived the earthquake with little damage, while several smaller shrines and buildings around it were hit. During the weeks after the quake, the ghats were busier than ever as families cremated their dead. The complex has since been restored, and visitor paths, a daily evening aarti and better facilities have changed the east bank, while the temple's core rituals continue as before.

२The legend
As it is told · पशुपतिनाथ

Local legend says Shiva once came to the forest of Mrigasthali, on the east bank, and took the form of a deer to live there freely. The other gods came looking for him and caught him by a horn, which broke into pieces. One became the linga. It was lost for ages until a cow was seen pouring her milk onto one spot each day; people dug there, found the linga and built the first temple.

३The people

Who lives here

Around the temple live Newar families of Deopatan, the old town on its western side, along with priests, flower and offering sellers, and staff of the trust. Sadhus from Nepal and India stay here, especially around Shivaratri. Families from all over Nepal come to cremate their dead. Next door, an elderly people's home looks after residents, some of whom chose to spend their last years near the holy river.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
घाट
Ghat

Stone steps on a riverbank, used for bathing and cremation

Nepali
साधु
Sadhu

Hindu ascetic who has renounced home life

Nepali
आरती
Aarati

Evening worship with lamps, bells and songs

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Dar for Teej

The night before Teej, women gather for dar, a rich feast of sweets, fried breads, meat and curd, before fasting the next day and walking in red saris to Pashupatinath. Outside festival time, small shops in Gaushala and Deopatan serve milk tea, jeri and puri after morning puja.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Only four priests may touch the linga at Pashupatinath. Daily rituals are carried out by two groups: the Bhatta priests, who perform the puja, and the Rajbhandari, Newar helpers and temple caretakers who may not touch the deity.

Wikipedia: Pashupatinath Temple

Upstream of the main temple, Guhyeshwari temple is counted as one of the Shakti Peethas, places where parts of the goddess Sati's body are said to have fallen. Its main shrine is closed to non-Hindus.

Wikipedia: Guhyeshwari Temple

The linga inside Pashupatinath has faces in four directions, each an aspect of Shiva: Sadyojata, Vamadeva, Tatpurusha and Aghora. A fifth aspect, Ishana, is imagined facing upwards.

Wikipedia: Pashupatinath Temple

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Getting there

How to reach Pashupatinath

Road

Pashupatinath is about 5 km east of Thamel and 2 km from the airport. A taxi takes 20 to 30 minutes from Thamel, dropping at Gaushala on the main road, a 5 minute walk from the temple. Microbuses from Ratnapark run to Gaushala. Allow extra time on festival days, when roads close.

On foot

From Boudhanath, walk south-west through Chabahil and Gaushala in 30 to 40 minutes. From the east bank you can also walk upstream past Guhyeshwari and continue towards Boudha, a popular way to link the two.

Where to stay

Dwarika's Hotel at Battisputali is the nearest high-end stay, about 10 minutes' walk from the temple area, with Newar architecture and good gardens. Gokarna Forest Resort, 20 minutes north, is another quiet base. Boudha, 30 minutes on foot, has guesthouses and mid-range hotels. Most visitors stay in Thamel and come by taxi for a half-day visit, ideally ending with the evening aarti.

Local tips

  • Non-Hindus may not enter the main temple courtyard; the guards at the gate will check, so do not try.
  • Never photograph the faces of mourners or bodies at cremations; keep a respectful distance.
  • Many sadhus pose for photographs and expect a tip; agree before you shoot.
  • Foreign visitors pay an entry fee; keep the ticket as it is checked at several points.
  • Leather items are not allowed in some inner temple areas; leave belts and bags with your guide if asked.

On the map

Pashupatinath and what is near it

Map of Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Kathmandu, ChangunarayanIndiaChinaNepalGandakiPashupatinath1PashupatinathBoudhanath2BoudhanathKathmandu3KathmanduChangunarayan4Changunarayan50 kmN
  1. 1Pashupatinath
  2. 2Boudhanath
  3. 3Kathmandu
  4. 4Changunarayan
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Pashupatinath: what travellers ask

Why can't non-Hindus enter Pashupatinath?

The main temple courtyard is restricted to Hindus by long tradition, to protect the sanctity of the shrine of Pashupati. Non-Hindus can visit the rest of the large complex, including the east bank, the ghats, Mrigasthali and smaller temples, and see the main temple from across the river.

What is the best time to visit Pashupatinath?

Early morning, from about 6 to 9 am, for daily rituals, or late afternoon to stay for the evening aarti at sunset. October to April has the most pleasant weather. Shivaratri in February or March and Teej in August or September are spectacular but extremely crowded.

How long should I spend at Pashupatinath?

Two to three hours with a guide covers the main temple from outside, the ghats, the east bank, Mrigasthali and an explanation of rituals. Add an hour for the evening aarti, or walk on to Guhyeshwari and Boudha for a half-day route.

Is Pashupatinath disturbing to visit?

It can be. Open-air cremations are a normal part of Hindu life here and are not hidden. Some visitors find them moving, others upsetting. You can watch from a distance or avoid the ghats entirely. A guide helps by explaining the meaning of each rite.

What should I wear to Pashupatinath?

Wear modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees, and shoes you can remove easily. Leave leather items aside if asked near inner shrines. In summer, carry water and a hat. Dress as you would for any important place of worship.

Are the sadhus at Pashupatinath real?

Some are long-term ascetics who live around the temple; others pose in costume mainly for photos and tips. Both are part of the scene. If you photograph a sadhu, agree a donation first. At Shivaratri, many genuine sadhus travel from India and remote Nepal.

Can I combine Pashupatinath with Boudhanath?

Yes, they are 2 km apart. A good plan is Pashupatinath in the afternoon, then the walk or a short taxi to Boudha for the evening kora, or the reverse: Boudha in the morning and the Pashupati aarti at sunset.

Is Pashupatinath a UNESCO site?

Yes. The Pashupati monument zone is one of the seven zones that make up the Kathmandu Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site, inscribed in 1979. It covers the main temple, the ghats, the east bank shrines, Mrigasthali and surrounding temples.

When is Teej at Pashupatinath?

Teej, the women's festival for Shiva and Parvati, falls in the month of Bhadra, usually late August or September. Women in red saris fast, sing and dance, and queue for hours to worship at Pashupati. Dates change yearly, so check current status before you travel.

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