Food · Bhaktapur
Juju dhau, bara and Khwopa's snack shops
A late-afternoon food walk through Bhaktapur's squares and lanes: juju dhau from the clay bowl, bara and chatamari off the griddle, chhoyla with beaten rice, and Bhaktapur's own fried sweets. We eat where townspeople eat, and finish as the temples are lit.
Bhaktapur is famous across Nepal for juju dhau, the king of curds, and every Kathmandu family that visits takes a bowl home. We start at a small dairy near the Durbar Square, where buffalo milk is boiled and sweetened and set in unglazed clay bowls that draw off moisture. The result is thick enough to hold a spoon upright.
From there we walk to Taumadhi and its lanes for savoury khaja: bara, the black-lentil patty cooked on a flat pan, chatamari, the rice-flour crepe, and chhoyla, spiced grilled buffalo, served with beaten rice and a sharp tomato or potato pickle. We also try local fried snacks and a cup of milk tea.
As the light fades, the shrine lamps start to come on and dhime drummers sometimes practise in the squares. We end on a rooftop above Taumadhi, looking at Nyatapola against the evening sky, with a last bowl of curd or, for those who want it, a glass of aila, the Newar rice spirit.
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Questions
What is juju dhau?
Juju dhau means king curd in Nepal Bhasa. It is a sweet, thick yoghurt from Bhaktapur, made from boiled, sweetened buffalo milk set in clay bowls, which draw off moisture and give a firm, creamy texture. It is eaten as a dessert or at festivals, and sold in bowls of several sizes.
Where can I buy juju dhau in Bhaktapur?
Small dairy shops around the Durbar Square, Taumadhi and the bus park sell it in clay bowls. Buy it in the morning or early afternoon, when it is freshest. Carry it flat; the clay bowls are fragile. It keeps for about a day without a fridge.
Is Bhaktapur food spicy?
Some of it. Chhoyla, achar and many Newar pickles are spiced with chilli and timur pepper, a numbing Sichuan-style peppercorn. Bara, chatamari, beaten rice and juju dhau are mild. Ask for less chilli (piro kam) and your guide will order to taste.
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