The lake where two villages gave way to a park
For centuries Rara belonged to the people of two villages on its shore, Rara and Chhapru, who farmed the slopes, grazed animals in the forest and fished the lake. They were Thakuri and Chhetri families, part of the Khas world of the Karnali, trading grain and salt along the trails between Jumla, Mugu and Humla.
In 1976 the government declared Rara a national park, and the people of both villages were resettled to the Terai, far to the south. It was a hard move from a cold mountain valley to the hot plains, and older people in the Karnali still talk about it. Their terraced fields above the shore have since grown back into meadow and forest.
Since then the Nepal Army has guarded the park, and the lake has stayed remarkably clean. In September 2007 Rara and its surrounding wetland were listed as a Ramsar site. Domestic tourism has grown with new flights and the road to Mugu's headquarters at Gamgadhi, and Rara is now a dream trip for many Nepalis. Foreign visitors remain few, and in autumn you may have long stretches of shore to yourself.
