Asoj 2083 BSअसोज २०८३· Nepal runs on its own calendar

Far West & Karnali · lake

Rara Lake

रारा ताल

Rara is the largest lake in Nepal: 10.8 sq km of clear water at 2,990 m in Mugu district, up to 167 m deep and ringed by blue pine and spruce. It sits inside Rara National Park, the country's smallest. Reach it by flying Nepalgunj to Talcha and walking two to three hours, or by trekking three to four days from Jumla.

  • Stay 2–3 nights
  • Best Apr – May · Oct – Nov
  • लेकLekh
Rara Lake
Photo: Aadesh Baniya · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Rara Lake

Altitude2,990 m33.8% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltLekhलेक · High hills: pasture, pine, the last fields
Each breath69%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils89.8 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-10.3 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 2,990 m; real days vary with weather.

The first view of Rara stops people. After days of dry, steep Karnali hills, or a bumpy landing at Talcha, the trail tops a ridge and there it is: a long oval of blue water, 5 km by nearly 3 km, held in a ring of forested hills with snow on the peaks behind. Locals say the colour changes several times a day with the light and the weather, and after a few hours on the shore you will believe them.

Rara National Park was set up in 1976 to protect the lake and its forest. At 106 sq km it is the smallest national park in Nepal. The lake drains west through the Nijar river into the Mugu Karnali. Its waters hold a fish found nowhere else, the Rara snowtrout, and an endemic frog. The forest shelters red panda, musk deer, Himalayan black bear and the danphe, Nepal's national bird.

Rara is quiet in a way few places in Nepal still are. There is no village on the shore, no motorboat noise and only a handful of simple lodges. Come for two or three nights: walk the shore in a day, climb to Murma Top for the sunrise view over the lake and the snow peaks beyond, and spend an afternoon doing nothing at all on the grassy banks.

Why go

The shore walk

A trail runs right round the lake through pine and spruce forest and open meadows. At a steady pace it takes most of a day, with constantly changing views across the water and almost nobody else on the path.

Sunrise from Murma Top

Murma, a 3,630 m viewpoint above the lake, gives the classic view of Rara with snow peaks on the skyline behind. Start in the dark from the lakeshore and climb for two to three hours to catch the first light.

Waterbirds in autumn

Coots live on the lake year-round, and from autumn to spring great crested and black-necked grebes, red-crested pochards, mallards, teal and common mergansers arrive. Scan the bays at dawn with binoculars.

Forest wildlife

Rara's forest holds 51 recorded mammal species, including red panda, musk deer, Himalayan black bear and Himalayan tahr. Danphe and kalij pheasant are often heard at dawn. Sightings are a matter of luck and quiet walking.

The trek in from Jumla

The classic way to reach Rara is three to four days on foot from Jumla, over high passes and through Khas villages, pine forest and pasture. Arriving on foot gives the lake the welcome it deserves.

१The story of Rara Lake

The lake where two villages gave way to a park

For centuries Rara belonged to the people of two villages on its shore, Rara and Chhapru, who farmed the slopes, grazed animals in the forest and fished the lake. They were Thakuri and Chhetri families, part of the Khas world of the Karnali, trading grain and salt along the trails between Jumla, Mugu and Humla.

In 1976 the government declared Rara a national park, and the people of both villages were resettled to the Terai, far to the south. It was a hard move from a cold mountain valley to the hot plains, and older people in the Karnali still talk about it. Their terraced fields above the shore have since grown back into meadow and forest.

Since then the Nepal Army has guarded the park, and the lake has stayed remarkably clean. In September 2007 Rara and its surrounding wetland were listed as a Ramsar site. Domestic tourism has grown with new flights and the road to Mugu's headquarters at Gamgadhi, and Rara is now a dream trip for many Nepalis. Foreign visitors remain few, and in autumn you may have long stretches of shore to yourself.

३The people

Who lives here

The hills around Rara are home to Thakuri and Chhetri farmers who speak a Khas dialect of Nepali, and, further north in Mugu, Buddhist communities with Tibetan language and customs. People grow potatoes, beans, barley, buckwheat and apples, keep goats and sheep, and collect medicinal herbs, including yarsagumba in the high pastures. Many young men work seasonally in India.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
डाँफे
Danphe

Himalayan monal, Nepal's national bird, seen in Rara's forest

Nepali
दह
Daha

A deep lake or pool

Nepali
लेक
Lekh

High forested ridge or hill pasture

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Aalu with timur achar

Boiled or roasted potatoes from Mugu's fields, served with a fiery pickle of chilli, salt and timur, the tingling Himalayan pepper gathered in Karnali forests. Lodges around Rara serve it as a snack with tea, and potatoes with dal and rice are the staple meal here.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Rara is Nepal's largest lake, with a surface of 10.8 sq km and a maximum depth of 167 m. It is about 5 km long and 3 km wide, and drains into the Mugu Karnali through the Nijar river.

Wikipedia: Rara National Park

The Rara snowtrout (Schizothorax raraensis) is found only in Rara Lake, as is the Rara Lake frog (Nanorana rarica). Both were described from specimens collected at the lake in 1979.

Wikipedia: Rara Lake; Rara National Park

When Rara National Park was created in 1976, the people of the two lakeshore villages, Rara and Chhapru, were resettled to the Terai. At 106 sq km, Rara remains Nepal's smallest national park.

Wikipedia: Rara Lake; Rara National Park

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Rara Lake

Air

Fly Kathmandu to Nepalgunj (about 1 hour), then take a small-plane flight to Talcha, Rara Airport, in Mugu, usually in the morning. From Talcha it is a 2–3 hour walk, climbing gently through forest, to the lakeshore. Flights are weather-dependent and not daily in every season; check current status before you travel.

Road

Jeeps and buses run from Nepalgunj and Surkhet up the Karnali Highway and on to Gamgadhi, Mugu's headquarters, in about two days. From the road head it is a few hours on foot or by local jeep to the lake. The roads are rough and often blocked by landslides in the monsoon.

On foot

Trek from Jumla in three to four days via Chere Chaur and the Danphe Lagna pass, or follow longer routes through Sinja. Since April 2023 foreign trekkers in national parks need a licensed guide; check current status before you travel.

Where to stay

There is no village on the lakeshore, but a small number of simple lodges and guesthouses stand near the park headquarters and on the approach from Talcha, with twin rooms, shared toilets and dal bhat. Electricity is from solar panels and there is no heating, so bring a good sleeping bag. In the busy autumn season, lodges can fill with domestic groups; book through an agency or carry tents. Many organised treks camp at designated sites on the shore with park permission.

Local tips

  • Allow at least one spare day for flights to and from Talcha, which are often delayed by cloud.
  • Bring a four-season sleeping bag in October and November; nights fall below freezing.
  • Carry enough cash in Nepali rupees from Nepalgunj; there are no ATMs at the lake.
  • Do not swim or wash with soap in the lake; it is protected and the park staff enforce the rules.
  • Pay the national park entry fee at the park office and carry your permit; check current status before you travel.

On the map

Rara Lake and what is near it

Map of Rara Lake, Jumla, Sinja Valley, SimikotIndiaChinaNepalRara Lake1Rara LakeJumla2JumlaSinja Valley3Sinja ValleySimikot4Simikot50 kmN
  1. 1Rara Lake
  2. 2Jumla
  3. 3Sinja Valley
  4. 4Simikot
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Rara Lake: what travellers ask

How do I get to Rara Lake?

The quickest way is to fly Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, then Nepalgunj to Talcha (Rara Airport), and walk 2–3 hours to the lake. The classic way is to fly to Jumla and trek three to four days. Rough roads via Surkhet and the Karnali Highway also reach Mugu, but take about two days.

What is the best time to visit Rara Lake?

Late September to November gives the clearest skies and deepest colours, and April to May brings spring flowers and mild days. From December to March snow often blocks the trails and lodges close. June to August is the monsoon, with cloud and leeches.

Is Rara Lake the largest lake in Nepal?

Yes. Rara is Nepal's largest lake, with a surface of 10.8 sq km and a maximum depth of 167 m, at 2,990 m in Mugu district. It is bigger than Phewa in Pokhara and much deeper.

Do I need a permit for Rara Lake?

You need to pay the entry fee for Rara National Park, at the park office or through your agency. Since April 2023 foreign trekkers in national parks must walk with a licensed guide. Fees and rules change; check current status before you travel.

Is there accommodation at Rara Lake?

Yes, a few simple lodges and guesthouses near the park headquarters and on the approach from Talcha, plus designated camping sites. Rooms are basic, with shared toilets and no heating. In October and November they can fill with domestic groups, so book ahead.

How cold is Rara Lake?

In October nights drop to around freezing and days reach about 15–18 °C in sun. By November nights are well below freezing. In April and May days are mild, about 15–20 °C, with cold nights. Bring a down jacket and a four-season sleeping bag.

Is Rara Lake affected by altitude sickness?

At 2,990 m some people feel mild symptoms such as headache or poor sleep, especially if they fly straight in to Talcha from the plains. Take it easy on the first day, drink plenty of water and avoid alcohol. Serious altitude sickness is uncommon at this height, but descend if symptoms worsen.

Why are flights to Rara often delayed?

Talcha is a small mountain airstrip that only operates in good visibility. Cloud, wind or rain at Nepalgunj or Talcha can ground flights, sometimes for several days. Flights also may not run daily outside the main seasons. Always build at least one spare day into a Rara trip.

Can I combine Rara with Jumla or Bardia?

Yes. A popular plan is to fly into Jumla, visit Sinja, trek to Rara and fly out from Talcha. Because all flights pass through Nepalgunj, it is easy to add three nights in Bardia, two hours away, before or after the mountains.

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