Food · Jumla
Walk the red rice terraces of the Tila valley
Follow field paths along the Tila river through terraces of marshi, Jumla's red rice, grown at around 2,400 m and above. Meet farmers, watch threshing in autumn and end with a meal of marshi bhat.
Rice is a lowland crop, so walking through paddy fields at well over 2,000 m feels strange. Marshi is a cold-tolerant red rice, grown in the Jumla valleys for centuries, and the fields along the Tila river near Khalanga are among the highest rice fields anywhere. Some villages in the district grow it at around 3,000 m.
A guide leads you out of the bazaar on field paths between terraces, irrigation channels and stone houses. In late September and October the grain turns red-gold and families cut, stack and thresh it by hand on flat rooftops and threshing floors. In June and July you see the planting, with songs, mud and whole villages in the fields.
Marshi has a short, slightly sticky red grain and a nutty taste. Finish the walk with marshi bhat in a bazaar bhatti, and buy a few kilos to take home; it is sold all over Nepal at a premium, but cheapest and freshest here.
Good for
Questions
What is Jumla marshi rice?
Marshi is a cold-tolerant red rice grown in the high valleys of Jumla, among the highest rice-growing areas in the world. It has a short reddish grain, a nutty flavour and is prized across Nepal. Tradition credits the holy man Chandannath with bringing it from Kashmir.
When is the rice harvest in Jumla?
Usually from late September into October, depending on altitude and the year's weather. Planting happens in June and July. The harvest season coincides with clear post-monsoon weather, which makes it a good time to visit Jumla and Rara.
Can I buy marshi rice to take home?
Yes. Shops in Khalanga bazaar sell marshi by the kilo, often cheaper and fresher than in Kathmandu. It is light enough to carry in your luggage, though check the weight limit on small planes from Jumla, which can be as low as 10–15 kg.
Also in Jumla
More ways to spend the day
SpiritualEvening worship at Chandannath temple
Join the evening crowd at the Chandannath and Bhairabnath temples in Khalanga bazaar, the spiritual heart of Jumla, where the …
TrekkingHike to the Chere Chaur meadows above Jumla
Climb steeply from Khalanga through pine forest to the open meadows of Chere Chaur, with wide views over the Tila …
FoodApples, beans and wool in Khalanga bazaar
Wander Jumla's main bazaar with a local guide, tasting apples, buying marshi rice and Jumli beans, and looking for the …