Spiritual · Jumla
Evening worship at Chandannath temple
Join the evening crowd at the Chandannath and Bhairabnath temples in Khalanga bazaar, the spiritual heart of Jumla, where the tall red lingo pole is raised anew every Dashain.
The Chandannath temple stands in the middle of Khalanga bazaar, with the Bhairabnath temple beside it. It is linked in local memory to the Kalyal kings of Jumla and to Chandannath, the holy man from Kashmir who is said to have brought its image. Above the courtyard rises the lingo, a tall timber pole painted brick red and hung with a long cloth banner.
Come at dusk, when shopkeepers and families stop by on their way home, ring the bells and leave flowers and coins. You may see a dhami, a local oracle, at the temple during festivals, shaking as a god speaks through him. It is a working place of worship, not a monument, and the mood is everyday rather than solemn.
The most dramatic time is Ghatasthapana, the first day of Dashain in late September or October, when the old lingo is lowered and a new pole of more than 52 feet is raised by hundreds of hands. Ask before taking photos, remove your shoes in the inner area, and walk clockwise around the shrine.
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Questions
Can tourists visit Chandannath temple in Jumla?
Yes, the courtyard is open to visitors. Remove your shoes where local people do, walk clockwise, and do not touch offerings or the deity. The inner sanctum may be restricted to Hindus; follow the priest's guidance. Photography of people at prayer needs their permission.
When is the lingo changed at Chandannath?
On Ghatasthapana, the first day of Dashain, which falls in late September or October depending on the lunar calendar. The old pole is taken down and a new one of more than 52 feet is raised by devotees. Expect big crowds. Check current status before you travel for the exact date.
Who was Chandannath?
According to tradition, Chandannath was a holy man from Kashmir who brought an image of Dattatreya to Jumla, where the temple was then built. He is also credited with introducing marshi rice. There are few written records, and much of the story has been passed down orally.
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