Morning prayers at Thame's cliffside gompa

Thame gompa looks as if it grew out of the rock: whitewashed buildings stacked against a cliff above the village, with prayer flags strung to the ridge. It is counted among the oldest monasteries in Khumbu, belonging, like most Sherpa gompas, to the Nyingma school of Tibetan Buddhism. The climb from the fields is short and steep, past chortens and a stream-turned prayer wheel.

Come early. In the morning the prayer hall fills with the deep drone of chanting, horns and drums, and butter lamps light the murals of Guru Rinpoche and the protector deities. Visitors may sit quietly at the back. Remove shoes and hats, never point your feet at the altar, and ask before photographing. A donation in the box helps support the monks.

Thame is one of three gompas that stage Mani Rimdu, the masked-dance festival brought from Rongbuk in Tibet. Thame's is usually in May, a smaller and more local event than Tengboche's in autumn, with families from the Bhote Koshi valley gathered in the courtyard. If your dates fit, it is a rare chance to see the cham dances in a village setting. Check current status before you travel.