Evening kora around Namche's gompa

Every Sherpa village has its gompa, and Namche's is a modest prayer hall with painted eaves and a row of brass prayer wheels around its walls. In the late afternoon, when the trail traffic eases, older residents come down with their hand prayer wheels and malas and walk slowly around it, clockwise, turning each wheel and murmuring om mani padme hum.

You are welcome to join, with a few courtesies. Walk clockwise, always keeping the gompa and any chorten or mani wall on your right. Turn the wheels with your right hand. Inside the hall, remove your shoes and hat, do not point your feet at the altar, and ask before taking photographs. A small donation in the box is a good gesture. If monks are chanting, sit at the back and listen.

Inside, the murals show Guru Rinpoche, the Buddha and protector deities, among them, in many Khumbu gompas, Khumbu Yul Lha, the protector of the region whose mountain home is Khumbila above Khumjung. Ask your guide to name the figures. The quiet hour, the butter lamps and the low light make it one of the most peaceful moments of the trek.