Kanchenjunga views from the Pathibhara summit

Pathibhara's summit is one of the best viewpoints in Taplejung. On a clear autumn morning the Kanchenjunga massif and the sharp form of Jannu, called Kumbhakarna in Nepal, rise to the north-east, with lesser snow peaks in between. To the south and west, the ridges of Taplejung and Panchthar fold away in layers toward the plains, with villages and terraces on every slope and the valley of the Tamor river cutting through them.

Our guide points out the valleys you would walk into on the Kanchenjunga trek, and the villages of Taplejung spread along the ridges below. We find a sheltered spot away from the queue, out of the wind, with tea from a flask. This is the moment to sit still: the bells, the flags snapping in the wind, the murmur of prayers and the white line of the mountains together make the climb worthwhile.

Cloud tends to rise by mid-morning, so we time the climb to be on top early. Spring mornings can be clear too, though haze is more common, and in winter the views are often sharp but the cold and wind are severe. If the summit is in cloud when you arrive, it is worth waiting half an hour; gaps often open briefly. Photographers should bring a telephoto lens for Jannu and Kanchenjunga.