Dawn climb to Pathibhara Devi with pilgrims

We start from the lodge near the road head in the early hours, with head torches and warm layers. The trail is steep and stepped, climbing through rhododendron and oak, with the lights of Phungling below. Pilgrims of every age are on the path with you, some barefoot, many carrying offerings, and the bells of the tea shops ring out as groups pass. Our guide sets a slow, even pace and stops often, because the altitude is felt by everyone.

At the top, the shrine is an open sanctum on the bare summit. Our guide explains how to queue, what pilgrims offer and why, and the meaning of the bhakal vows that bring people back year after year. We also talk about Mukkumlung, the Limbu name for the hill, and what it means in Kirat tradition. If you would like to make an offering, our guide shows you how; if not, you are welcome simply to watch.

After worship and the view, we walk down slowly, stopping for tea and sel roti at the shops on the trail, and reach the road head around midday. The descent is hard on the knees, so walking poles help. In the afternoon we drive back to Phungling, or continue north toward the Kanchenjunga trail if Pathibhara is part of a longer trek. The climb also works well as an acclimatisation day before going higher.