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Chitwan & the Terai · village

Amaltari

Amaltari is a Tharu village on the western edge of Chitwan National Park, about 7 km south of Kawasoti in Nawalpur district. It runs one of Nepal's best-known community homestays, started in 2013, and is home to Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge. Come for village life, Narayani boat trips and quiet safaris, October to April.

  • Stay 1–2 nights
  • Best Oct – Mar
  • तराईTerai
Amaltari
Photo: Bharatadhikarimb · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Amaltari

Altitude150 m1.7% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltTeraiतराई · The plains: sal forest, rice, rhino country
Each breath98%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils99.5 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu+8.1 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 150 m; real days vary with weather.

Amaltari sits where the farmland of Nawalpur meets the forests of Chitwan National Park on the west side of the Narayani. From Kawasoti on the East-West Highway it is about 7 km south on a village road, past rice fields, ponds and mud-walled houses, to the edge of the jungle. The Narayani runs a short walk from the last houses, and beyond the fields the park's grassland and sal forest begin. Rhinos sometimes wander out at night to feed on the crops.

The village is mostly Tharu, with Bote families, the traditional boatmen and fishers of the Narayani, and a smaller Musahar community. In 2013, with support from the government and conservation groups, families opened a community homestay. It grew quickly, mostly with Nepali visitors, and was named the best homestay programme in the country by the tourism ministry in 2017. Most homestay guests are Nepali families and school groups, but hosts have welcomed visitors from many countries, and some younger family members speak English.

For international travellers Amaltari offers two very different stays a few minutes apart: a night with a Tharu family in the homestay, or the comfort of Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge, built in the style of a Tharu longhouse. Either way you get quiet park drives on the western side, boat trips on the Narayani and a real village around you. We suggest one or two nights here, combined with Sauraha or Meghauli, between October and April, when the weather is dry and the park fully open.

Why go

Homestay with a Tharu family

Amaltari's community homestay rotates guests between family houses. You eat at the family table, help in the kitchen and join the evening dance programme in the village hall. Expect simple, clean rooms rather than hotel comforts.

Boat trips with Bote boatmen

Bote families have run boats on the Narayani for generations. A trip downriver shows crocodiles, river birds and, with luck, wild gharials, with the Chitwan forest on one bank. Trips run in the dry season only, with life jackets.

Quiet west Chitwan safaris

Jeep drives into the western part of the park from Amaltari see far fewer vehicles than the Sauraha side. Rhinos are common, and the grassland and forest edges are good for tiger and gaur. Bring binoculars and a scarf against the dust.

Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge

Built in the style of Tharu longhouses with mud-plastered walls, this lodge on the village edge offers comfortable rooms, naturalist guides and a farm setting. It usually closes for part of the monsoon, so check dates when booking.

Tharu dance evenings

Village dance groups perform the stick dance and other Tharu dances for guests in the cultural hall, with drums and singing, often followed by a simple Tharu supper. Shows last about an hour, and guests are often invited to join the last dance.

१The story of Amaltari

A buffer zone village that chose to host

Amaltari's families have lived beside this forest for generations. Tharu farmers cleared land for rice and kept buffaloes; Bote families fished the Narayani and ferried people across it in dugout canoes. When Chitwan National Park and its buffer zone were set up, access to the forest was restricted, and wild animals from the park began raiding crops. Families needed new income that did not depend on cutting grass and wood inside the park, and tourism was one of the few options open to them.

After Nepal introduced homestay rules in 2010, Amaltari saw a chance. In 2013 families opened their homes to visitors under a buffer zone community homestay, with help from the government and WWF. Guests were assigned to houses in turn, so income was shared, and village dance groups began performing for guests in the evenings. Families who had never hosted strangers learned to cook for guests, prepare rooms and present their songs and dances, and the homestay became a source of pride as well as income.

The project grew fast, drawing busloads of domestic tourists on weekends and holidays. Its success has raised hard questions too, about how fairly benefits reach Bote and Musahar families and how much tourism a small village can absorb. For travellers it remains one of the easiest ways to stay with a Tharu family and see a buffer zone village working. If you stay, ask your hosts how the homestay has changed their village; the answers are usually frank and always interesting.

३The people

Who lives here

Amaltari is mainly Tharu, with Bote families who traditionally fished and ran ferries on the Narayani, and a smaller Musahar community. Tharu families run most homestays, farm rice, maize and mustard, and keep buffaloes and goats. Many young people work as nature guides, dancers and lodge staff. Tharu, Bote and Nepali are spoken.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
डुङ्गा
dunga

Boat; on the Narayani, often a dugout canoe

Nepali
गाउँ
gaun

Village

Nepali
नमस्ते
namaste

Greeting with palms joined; used for hello and goodbye

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Ghonghi curry

Ghonghi are freshwater snails gathered from flooded rice fields and ponds, cooked in a thick curry with garlic, chilli and spices, and eaten by sucking the meat from the shell. Amaltari's homestay kitchens make it often; ask your host, and pair it with rice and dhikri.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Amaltari's community homestay was established in 2013 in the buffer zone of Chitwan National Park and was named the best homestay programme in Nepal by the Ministry of Tourism in 2017.

Mongabay, June 2019, 'Homestay programs in Nepal's rhino hub'

The Bote of Amaltari are one of the Terai's river peoples, traditionally fishing and ferrying travellers across the Narayani in dugout canoes long before tourism reached the village.

Mongabay, June 2019; Wikipedia: Bote people

Amaltari lies about 7 km south of Kawasoti, the headquarters of Nawalpur district, on the western side of Chitwan National Park, part of which extends into Nawalpur.

Wikipedia: Chitwan National Park; Wikipedia: Kawasoti

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Amaltari

Road

Drive west from Narayangadh on the East-West Highway to Kawasoti, about 35 km, then about 7 km south to Amaltari. Total from Narayangadh is roughly 1 to 1.25 hours; from Kathmandu 6 to 7 hours. Local buses run to Kawasoti, with taxis or the homestay's pick-up to the village.

Air

Fly Kathmandu to Bharatpur (BHR), about 20 to 25 minutes, then drive about 1.5 hours to Amaltari. Check current status before you travel; winter fog often delays morning flights.

Where to stay

Choose between the Amaltari community homestay, where you stay in a Tharu or Bote family home with simple rooms and home-cooked meals, and Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge on the edge of the village, built in the style of a Tharu longhouse with comfortable rooms and full safari programmes. Barauli's women-run cottages are about 15 minutes away. Kawasoti, 7 km north, has basic hotels for budget travellers.

Local tips

  • Avoid Nepali public holidays and weekends at the homestay if you want a quiet stay; domestic groups fill it then.
  • Bring cash; card payments are rare in the village.
  • Ask for a homestay family that speaks some English, or book with a guide who can translate.
  • Book Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge early for February and March, and check its seasonal closing dates in the monsoon.
  • Respect village rules on dress and photography, and ask before entering kitchens and shrines.

On the map

Amaltari and what is near it

Map of Amaltari, Barauli, Meghauli, DevghatIndiaChinaNepalGandakiAmaltari1AmaltariBarauli2BarauliMeghauli3MeghauliDevghat4Devghat50 kmN
  1. 1Amaltari
  2. 2Barauli
  3. 3Meghauli
  4. 4Devghat
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Amaltari: what travellers ask

Where is Amaltari?

Amaltari is a village in Kawasoti Municipality, Nawalpur district, about 7 km south of Kawasoti on the East-West Highway. It lies on the western edge of Chitwan National Park near the Narayani river, roughly 1 to 1.25 hours west of Narayangadh by road.

Is Amaltari homestay good for foreigners?

Yes, with the right expectations. Rooms are simple and some families speak little English, but hosts are welcoming and used to guests. A guide or translator helps a lot. For a quieter visit, go midweek and outside Nepali holidays, when domestic groups fill the village.

What is Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge like?

It is a comfortable lodge on the edge of Amaltari, built in the style of Tharu longhouses with mud-plastered walls. It offers guided park drives, walks, boat trips and village visits with its own naturalists. It closes for part of the monsoon; check dates when booking.

How many nights should I spend in Amaltari?

One or two. One night covers a village walk, a dance evening and a boat trip or drive. Two nights adds a full day in the park. Many travellers combine Amaltari with Sauraha or Meghauli to see more of Chitwan.

How far is Amaltari from Sauraha?

About 60 km by road, which takes roughly 1.5 to 2 hours via Bharatpur, Narayangadh and the East-West Highway. Private transfers are easiest. There is no direct public bus between the two. A private car can stop at Devghat, a short detour near Narayangadh, or at Barauli on the way.

Is Amaltari good for wildlife?

Yes. It is next to the western sector of Chitwan National Park, with rhinos, deer, gaur, crocodiles and predators, and the Narayani's gharials. Fewer jeeps use this side of the park, so drives are quieter. Village fields are sometimes visited by rhinos at night.

What is the best time to visit Amaltari?

October to April. February to April is best for wildlife, and October to January is cooler. From mid-June to September the monsoon brings heavy rain, high rivers and limited park access, and some lodges close. February and March, after the grass is cut, give the best views of rhinos and other animals.

Can I visit Amaltari as a day trip?

You can visit for a few hours from Meghauli or Barauli, for a boat trip or village walk. From Sauraha it is a long drive for a day. The village is best experienced overnight, when you join dinner, the dance programme and the early morning in the fields.

Who lives in Amaltari?

Amaltari is mainly a Tharu village, with Bote families, traditional boatmen and fishers of the Narayani, and a smaller Musahar community. Families farm rice, maize and mustard, keep livestock and increasingly work in tourism as hosts, guides and dancers. Bote and Musahar families mostly live in their own hamlets nearby.

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