Humla: the Kailash Trail to Hilsa

Fly Nepalgunj to Simikot

The early flight from Nepalgunj crosses the deep valleys of the Karnali hills and lands on Simikot's ridge-top airstrip at about 2,910 m. Simikot is the headquarters of Humla district, a town of stone houses, small shops and government offices. We complete the permit check, meet the crew and spend the afternoon acclimatising with a walk up to the viewpoint above the town. Kailash pilgrims pass through here in summer, and you will see some of them preparing for helicopter flights north.

The story of Simikot →

Down to Dharapuri

We climb over the ridge behind Simikot and descend through pine forest toward the Karnali. The trail passes villages where families grow barley, wheat and buckwheat, and mule trains carry rice and kerosene north. Women at work in the fields will ask where you are going; Hilsa is a word everyone here understands. Dharapuri, at about 2,300 m, sits above the river among walnut trees. Camp in a field by the village.

Dharapuri to Kermi and its hot springs

An easy day upriver to Kermi, where the first prayer flags and mani walls show you are entering a Buddhist area. The village's hot springs lie about half an hour from camp, two simple pools where trekkers and villagers soak in the evening. Pilgrims on the old route often rested here before the long climb north. Camp near the village at about 2,670 m. In the evening the crew may buy potatoes and buckwheat from the village for dinner.

Kermi to Yalbang

We cross a small pass with views down into the Karnali gorge, walk through pine forest and barley fields and reach Yalbang. Above the village stands Namkha Khyung Dzong, one of the largest monasteries in Humla, home to Nyingma monks. If the monks are gathered for afternoon prayers, we sit quietly at the back of the hall. The monastery is a good place to talk with your guide about how Buddhist and Hindu pilgrims shared this route to Kailash.

Yalbang to Tumkot

The trail follows the Karnali upstream, cut into the cliffs in places, and passes Muchu, a village of flat-roofed stone houses stacked with firewood. North of here the land dries quickly as you enter the rain shadow of the main range. The new Karnali Corridor road runs close to the old trail in parts; we keep to the footpath wherever it survives. Tumkot sits above the river with a small monastery on the hillside. Camp near the village.

Tumkot to Yari

A steady climb into high desert: bare brown slopes, juniper, mani walls and long views back down the valley. Yari, at about 3,663 m, is the last village before the pass, a resting place for pilgrims and traders for generations. Yaks and goats graze around the houses. We arrive in time for a rest, a cup of salt butter tea if a family offers one, and an early night before the crossing.

Over the Nara La to Hilsa

We start early for the climb to the Nara La, about 4,560 m, hung with prayer flags and topped by cairns that pilgrims add to as they pass. On a clear morning you look north across the Karnali into Tibet. The descent is steep and long to Hilsa, the border village at about 3,647 m. Across the bridge is the Chinese side, and beyond, out of sight, Kailash and Manasarovar. We camp at Hilsa and spend the evening watching the traffic of a border town.

By road back to Simikot

Today we return to Simikot by jeep on the Karnali Corridor road, which crosses the Nara La and follows the valley you have walked. The road is rough and can be blocked by landslides or snow, so timings vary. If the road is closed we arrange a charter helicopter, shared with pilgrims where possible, at extra cost. Evening in a Simikot lodge, a hot meal and a farewell to the crew.

The story of Simikot →

Fly Simikot to Nepalgunj

The morning flight takes you back to Nepalgunj in about forty-five minutes. From there you can connect to an afternoon flight to Kathmandu, or rest a night on the plain and continue to Bardia National Park. Simikot flights are often delayed by weather, so keep a spare day before international departures. If you plan to go to Kailash next year, you now know the country it begins in. Your guide handles the permit return and the crew tips.