Route · Mustang & Dolpo
Pokhara to Jomsom
Jomsom is a 20-minute early-morning flight from Pokhara, or about 160 km and 7–9 hours by jeep up the Kali Gandaki via Beni, Tatopani and Ghasa. The flight is quick but often delayed by wind and cloud; the road is long, rough and prone to monsoon landslides.
Small twin-engine aircraft fly from Pokhara to Jomsom's airport, at about 2,720 m, in the early morning only. By late morning the wind that blows up the Kali Gandaki makes landings unsafe, so a delayed flight can mean a full day's wait. The planes fly up the gorge between Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas rather than over them. Baggage limits are tight, usually around 10–15 kg; check current status before you travel.
The road leaves Pokhara west through Kusma to Beni, where the paved section ends, then follows the Kali Gandaki north through Tatopani, Ghasa, Lete and Kalopani before the valley opens at Tukuche and Marpha. The Beni–Ghasa stretch is narrow and dusty, with drops above the river, and is prone to landslides in July and August. We use private jeeps with drivers who know the road; check current status before you travel.
Local buses and shared jeeps run from Pokhara's bus park to Beni and on to Jomsom, usually with a change of vehicle at Beni or Ghasa. They are cheap and used daily by Thakali and Mustang families, but slow, crowded and uncomfortable on the rough sections. Fine for budget travellers with time; we do not recommend them for anyone with a tight schedule or a bad back.
Worth a stop on the way
- Kusma
- Beni
- Tatopani (hot springs)
- Ghasa
- Kalopani
- Tukuche
- Marpha
Local tip
Book the first flight of the day, and if it is cancelled, decide by mid-morning whether to wait or switch to a jeep.
Questions
Why do Jomsom flights only leave in the morning?
As the dry Mustang landscape heats up during the day, it pulls strong southerly winds up the Kali Gandaki gorge. By late morning those winds make landing at Jomsom unsafe for small aircraft, so all scheduled flights operate early. Cloud in the gorge or over Pokhara also stops flights. Keep at least one spare day at each end of a Mustang trip.
Is the road from Pokhara to Jomsom safe?
It is a working mountain road used daily by buses, jeeps and trucks. The paved road reaches Beni; from there to Ghasa it is narrow and rough, with drops above the river, though sections are being improved. In the dry months, October to May, it is reasonable with an experienced driver. In July and August landslides often block it. Check current status before you travel.
Can I fly one way and drive the other?
Yes, and we often plan it that way. Many guests fly up to Jomsom to save a long day and drive back down the Kali Gandaki, stopping in Marpha, Tukuche or Tatopani on the way. Driving down also gives a backup if return flights are cancelled. It costs a little more than flying both ways, but gives you the gorge at ground level.
How much luggage can I take on the Jomsom flight?
Airlines on the Pokhara–Jomsom route usually allow about 10–15 kg per person in total, and charge for excess weight when there is space on the plane. Leave extra bags at your hotel in Pokhara. Pack warm layers in your hand luggage, since Jomsom is far colder and windier than Pokhara. Limits differ by airline; check current status before you travel.